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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/11/16 in all areas

  1. Right so finally I have fixed this I got a secondhand complete pump assembly and swapped the factory sock onto the walbro And wow it has made a HUGE difference! I can't even get it to surge with the fuel light on now So adding to that if you are changing your pump ALWAYS keep your factory sock filter unless the aftermarket one is the same See below the difference in the size of the sock filters!
    3 points
  2. To be fair here, and @Subirex Automotive and @PBMS will hopefully back me up on this, is that Mechanics are typically undervalued increasingly by the Gen pop. They've got to deal with idiots who don't know how to drive properly, let alone change their oil or cambelts. So yes, while $90-95 is expensive, how are they meant to cover the expenses of a workshop if they charge at $50 an hour and work a 40 hour week (most pull nearly double that because they have to)? Paying for a building, power, any random consumables, S*** that goes wrong. I'm swinging in here to advocate on that comment because I've seen and been on the receiving end of that with Dad owning his shop.
    3 points
  3. Yeah, this was after a complete strut replacement. I'm a bit concerned about the difference between FL and FR camber though.
    2 points
  4. Additional information on the MCA's and info i received with them MCA INFO SHEET.pdf @ADIKT @Niran
    2 points
  5. Thanks for putting up all the detail. I take it this is for a road use only car? Did they make any suggestions for changes to use these on the track? Or did they suggest replacing springs to use on track as those spring rates are a bit soft for track I would assume?
    1 point
  6. Some places set them up like that to allow for the camber of the road surface..
    1 point
  7. Also, have they given you the option of what parts/brand you want? Big difference in cost between the bargain basement gates option, oem, and the gates racing blue option.
    1 point
  8. I've seen quite a high variance in hourly labour rates but most seem to be $80-90/hr. However, most of those businesses offer discounted rates on quoted work. For big jobs, I generally shop around for quotes. It also pays to remember that outside the main centres (AKL, WGT, CHCH, DUN) parts aren't as readily available and may have to be shipped to the workshop which is usually included in the parts cost.
    1 point
  9. Cool, thanks guys I'll have a think about it but will most likely just rebuild my motor.
    1 point
  10. Times have changed. Labour rates for a professional business are 75-90 odd then genuine dealers 120 odd both plus gst. Usually lower in hick towns or goon workshops. Theyve just gone up relative to everything else.
    1 point
  11. Working on a new bumper design for the race car. Modding the stock bumper as a plug.
    1 point
  12. Way too small. Should be like this one.
    1 point
  13. Sorry can't help with the surging problem but I can advise you to drink more water
    1 point
  14. Here's mine - https://www.subaru.co.nz/wrx25#/boards/subaru-wrx/entries/subaru-enrtry-42f260bf-d83e-41b5-88e8-34db4cd4dc0b/share
    1 point
  15. https://www.subaru.co.nz/wrx25/#/boards/subaru-wrx/entries/subaru-enrtry-13466ecb-42b3-4bc9-9bde-415cd6e89084
    1 point
  16. i have a RA DCCD 3.9 752 series box for sale if your after that, or will swap for 4.44 754 series RA ness haha
    1 point
  17. DCCD: Driver Controlled Centre Differential This is another big subject, here's a compilation of information. Useful info and first hand experiance welcome. please no 'i kan do phat dccd skids' spam please, it will be bumped off into general or off topic. Source unknown, lol The adjustable centre differential is one of the toys upon the Type R which makes the car desirable amongst Impreza owners. The way it works is by an electronic clutch which engages fluid filled clutch plates and this acts unlike a limited slip differential and more like a mechanical device. In the open condition the Type R handles very like a rear wheel drive car. The differential transfers the torque front and back equally but when one end loses grip (usually the lighter rear end) all of the torque is transferred to the axle that is wheel spinning. An LSD would keep some torque going to the wheels still with grip. Thus the Type R can bite the unwary. Moving the centre console switch one notch forward progressively locks the differential, and in the fully forward position the differention is completely locked. So why should you not have the diff. locked all the time? You are in effect forcing the drive on the front axle to be exactly the same as the rear. When going round a corner the wheels all rotate at different rates, the ones on the inside slower than the ones on the outside of the circular path. The front turning wheels travel at different rates to those on the rear fixed axle. Driving a Type R with the differential in the locked position on a good grippy surface will cause transmission damage, and the effects can be felt through the steering even when the diff. switch is set only one position forward. So when should you move the switch? As stated the rear of the Type R can be very lively if you let it get away from you. On damp and wet roads this is more likely to happen, so transferring some of the torque forwards might be advisable. With the slippery conditions the speed difference of the wheels will be compensated for by the overall slip on the road surface. If the surface is gravel or snow then it is safe to move the diff. lock to fully closed, giving exceptional traction from both front and back, something an LSD would never be able to give. Source: A Japanese book 'GC8 Bible' I scanned Thumb clickable. Source: Official or translated STI user manual, I'm not sure
    1 point


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