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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/08/17 in all areas

  1. I had already fixed the leak but that was exactly what was happening to the smoke. It was funnelling it like a chimney As I said in the first post I had already replaced the drivers rocker cover gasket and verified it wasn't leaking anymore. Turns out there was just some leftover oil caked to mani to uppipe flange behind the manifold heatshield. I cleaned it off as best as I could with de-greaser and took it out for a long drive with plenty of boost. It took quiet a bit of driving but it eventually stopped smoking. So all good now Thanks for the help guys. Lesson learned, take your car for a thrash after changing rocker covers to get rid of all the oil on the exhaust!
    3 points
  2. I'm just starting to get into this Instagram thing.
    3 points
  3. Sold my Subaru good buy sweet legacy 3.0r prince, how i will miss your lovely engine note. Untill I replace it with a wago in a few months that is. I also replaced the suspension in my suby turbo'd mx5 with adjustable coilovers, sits much better now and should handle significantly better than the stock bilsteins. Keen to get it back on track Stock rear, new front
    3 points
  4. No doubt about the it..... old caldina is up to the task... Mid 90's 2 litre manual 4wd..Good value and Toyota Tough..
    2 points
  5. Took it to its natural habitat...:)
    2 points
  6. If it was a v1/2 sti one with the 90deg cover it will be a small 16g. Cheaper to buy direct from Kinugawa too.
    2 points
  7. Good road tune is far superior to an e tune as anyone who is any good at road tunes will have seperate knock listening gear and a seperate wideband which will give more info to tuner and can rectify issues quicker should they arise.
    2 points
  8. Will be an oil leak down further and the smoke travelling up the inside of the uppipe heat shield.
    2 points
  9. Or a Carolla DX wagon. They go for ever
    1 point
  10. at worst : risk of Hydraulic'ing? Gees I almost sound like I know what I'm talking about
    1 point
  11. If possible next time unplug injector on the cyl that are not running to stop bore wash. Otherwise yes you can damage the cyl surface
    1 point
  12. So im on the bubble for a mortgage and am thinking of selling my beloved sub, those that know me know it has been with me for a loooooong time but before i even entertain the horrible thought i figured i would see what it might be worth in the current state: 1992 v1 wrx, reg on hold, no wof, pinkied for adjustables and maybe a bald tyre (about 6 years ago memory is avg) average body its tidy enough that it doesnt get pulled up but has a few scrapes etc, fiberglass copy front lip, eyelids, and custom grill, hx20 bonnet blacked out front mount inter cooler, chopped and swapped intake manifold on phenolic spacers, pink injectors, walbro pump, twisted t3/t4, dumppipe with ext wastegate right to the end, right beside the cannon, G4 link dynoed at 200kw @13psi but currently have no boost controller so running 5psi of the WG. Front top and bottom strut braces and top rear. GFB pulleys and GFB BoV Had a rear adjustable blow so replace the rear setup back to factory thinking it will try and push it thru for a wof at some stage/cert, hasn't yet happened so still has cuscos in the in the front as i havent seen any dirt cheap factory front shocks and springs. so... what do you think it is worth, high and low?
    1 point
  13. It should stop smoking once you run it out of oil. Then you can sell the short block for 2k! Win win!
    1 point
  14. td05 no way, maybe closer to 230kw atw which is still good given how responsive they are, but what we're saying is with the amount that's being spent already it would be a shame not to go just a little further and hit 260/270.. anyway there's always gonna be that element of 'just a little more and will have this much more power' so fair enough of you to draw the line somewhere, someones gotta be sensible around here
    1 point
  15. You'll need hearing aids before a bigger alternator.
    1 point
  16. similar risks apply both ways but who holds the liability is the biggest difference right? i flash an etune, damages my engine.. where do i stand? it takes time to know what you're looking at to determine if you've been given a crap tune or not, i wouldn't want to be in a relationship with my tuner where i have to check all this. and on that note, if it's a reputable tuner and i trust them, i'll go through this process. i get a tune from a local professional tuning shop that offers warranties on their workmanship, something goes wrong, i take it back to them and they sort me out. might take time, might need to escalate but we have many consumer rights that can be exercised in NZ. might not always win this battle but at least the person/company isn't in another country either. just because you do go to a local dyno/street tuner doesn't mean you'll get a good tune either, they could just as easily give you an off the shelf one so that risk still applies. again i depend here on finding someone reputable and establishing trust before forking out the hard earned $$
    1 point
  17. They won't be ID1000's or 1050X's, not for $150 each anyway. If you're going to be spending solid coin (Injectors, maybe front mount, tune blah blah) then spend the extra $1000 and get a turbo that will deliver 260-270wkw instead of 230 or so.
    1 point
  18. Nice pics, also down for a Wago meet
    1 point
  19. Really shouldnt be up to the customer to check if its a bad tune. There shouldnt be that margin of error regardless.
    1 point
  20. I would trust xrt to etune. Seen his work. And im fussy. In Auckland your go to man is @pappu his attention to detail is something else
    1 point
  21. @Furze and @Dairusire have been through the 5 speed to 6 speed conversion maybe they can chime in about that part.. i say go for it if you got the funds and thats what your cars for (to 6 speed). nek minit youre getting a full v10 gdb conversion
    1 point
  22. Guessing you have v5/6 sti heads? If so use them theyre pretty good for your goals. Be advisable to do a forged bottom end but the block mentioned above is still a pretty good option. Have a talk to Julius @PBMS about options.
    1 point
  23. @whitebait19 I'm down - sounds like a good idea. ps. Love the fresh RE003s.
    1 point
  24. Got a couple of random snaps thisarvo while unloading goodies On another note, what do we rekon about a meet up of some sort? Maybe Mangawhai? Somewhere nice in the middle?
    1 point
  25. get a capacitor into the system. the dimming headlights is a instantaneous demand thing. alternators are designed for slow ish power delivery to keep the car going and charge the battery, not to have a huge current draw dropped across it intermittently. capacitor allows for that to happen, as they are better suited for rapid discharge setups. or spend some money and get d-class amps
    1 point


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