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I'm still running 95 in the wagon since it is just not worth it to drive that far for fuel in a daily. The gc8 can get the special stuff since it is only on "fun drive" duties. That is exactly where I get 95 for my wagon from, with a skeggs fuel card it is $1.95/L for 95. Paying monthly.

yeap that is how i did it

Theres not a lot of tension on the front springs.. Wrap a towel or two around it and spin the nut off.. Obviously don't put your face in the way..

Got my private plate installed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, super caveat here, this will probably kill you and several other people. Wrap the spring in a towel then lay the strut down, along the bottom of a wall. Put your foot hard on the spring with the strut sideways in front of you, so nothing is pointing at you. Rattle gun the nut off. The strut will jump like 20cm out of the spring. If that. That's it. They are under bugger all tension when the strut is unloaded. EDIT: If you put a couple of big zipties on the spring (not when it's on the car, that's dodgy as S***) and pull them as tight as you can that will take some tension off as well. Your new springs look quite a bit longer, so use spring compressors when installing them.

It can, but relearns are done to smooth out shifts and is all done at very small throttle open angles. It sounds to me like he needs a reflash with a custom rom. I'd be wary of banging too much power through an old worn trans though.

I feel like im getting robbed when i pay $1.92 per litre for 98 so i cant imagine paying that much

I was about that away from the nelson challenge, so I understand your pain. I eventually gave in and just used 95 and a colder range spark plug lol Sent from my Baked potato using Telekinesis

Hurts a bit more when you have to drive 40mins each way to get it (hence the jerry can). Still cheaper than a detonation related big end failure I reckon. Cromwell has the cheapest fuel in the area, in Wanaka 91 is $2.15 per litre at the tourist petrol stations last time I checked. $2.80 is just silly money.

not tooo bad. 2.13 in Kumeu, but I remember when Nelson BP didnt have 98 and you could only get it at challenge... 2.80 /l I think was the highest I paid for it 🤣🤣 Sent from my Baked potato using Telekinesis

The gc8 got a Wof, then I bought a jerry can and drove to Cromwell to get a tank-full + jerry can of 98 for a tasty $2.25 per litre... ouch.

On my 120KM Legacy GT, if something else hadn't made it pop first, the Oil pump would have killed the bottom end. When they took the pump off the wheel that spins inside, most of the screws/bolts were loose, and wasn't far from dying most likely taking engine with it. edit: Oh and the other thing you don't know what petrol the previous owners used, people on here have admitted to using 91 (on I think GT's) .. if previous owner has done that for long enough and driven hard, engine won't last long.

Thanks Batbaruman, we have a similar analogy in the UK, and I'm sure all countries do to, the difference between a 300,000KM rep mobile where it has lived on the highay it's whole life Vs. the 100,000KM Granny riding the clutch everyweek to church and the supermarket! We know which car would generally be better mechanically... I'll look at the 2.5 and 3 litre cars, still reading up on what's what! Although a turbo would be great, happy to get something a bit less stressed and longer running.

Too late to ask for a birthday present? [emoji12]

hahahaha cheers man, the v7 wheels are back on it now, and combined with the new Dunlop d2's & new slimline lug nuts. it definately looks a tonne better than with the rays on, theres no turning back now the v7 wheels are here to stay ^_ ^

Went to put a cheeky bid in, but now well over my $2.50 limit

lol my inner modder now lives vicariously through you so i need you to recoup as much money as possible so you can keep modding the crap out of the RS , it's in both our best interests

Haha thanks for that, man that would have been funny well not for me but hey ^_ ^

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand the Rays are for sale on trademe if anyone wants to bite $1 Reserve - might just get yourself a bargain http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1399462300&ed=true

Nice link to the page I think the issue with this engine was it was never able to be truly developed. Id be happy that engine

as others are already covering the engine replacement side, i'll take a crack at mileage. i see you are moving from (or already have moved) UK , not sure from which part exactly but i assume could be an area where long commutes are quite common (as it is in australia).. in some instances that 200,000k could have come from about 3 years of commutes at mostly 100kph, in others it could be from 10 years of start stop driving under heat soaked conditions. those long commutes aren't as common here so when we see 200,000km for example, we generally assume it as having experienced greater wear and tear not just running from those k's but also wear and tear involved over a greater number of hours, greater cycle count etc. mind you it's not just the engine but also other parts like gearbox.

Outback: Replaced rear pads and rotors (about time, had those bits in the garage for about two years). MX-5: Attempted to test fit new front brakes. Discovered front hubs are seized to the uprights. Added slide hammer to shopping list.

New engine is a good sign in any high kms car your looking at buying But ONLY if they have receipts, for work done, for parts, anything. Most people who do pay to have their engines changed keep the receipt because they know thats the only proof the engines been changed. So if they dont have receipts, they are likely to be full of S***. or they've done it themselves, and in that case they'd have receipts for parts even if they got some of them from wreckers.

This thread is full of derp. The height will be miles from where they will finally sit until you actually squash them a bunch. And on the fronts.... got any big zipties?

bro you arent listening , everyones said it already. they need time to settle, especially brand new stiff springs. i'm pretty sure it's like 2-3 weeks to settle properly. after this you go get a wheel alignment. perfectly fine to drive in the mean time but things will all get better once they set in and 4 wheel alignment done.

washing powder + warm water + scourer pad . Warning this will remove weak paint/clear coats ect and require polishing ect. Tread lightly and test it on a small area first.

yuck, just yuck! why is it even such a big thing to put shopping trolleys on top of cars in USA?