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Ive been running a stock 257 shortblock with EJ20k/v4sti heads for nearly 10 years at about 260kwatw. This engine hates small turbos. Also not having boost is not as dramatic as on the 2L as the off-boost torque is so much higher. The engine likes a big turbo (bigger than a VF anyway) but ~400bhp is about the limit. This engine has also done hundreds of track laps, as long as you keep at least oil temps down it seems to be pretty happy.

look at this thread, the description, the pics, the dyno chart... have spare underwear ready he's asking for 35k, that is indeed more than the 30k you are looking to spend, but on the plus side you won't need to modify it or have it retuned, everything is done already so you just drive it and have fun. who knows he may even be flexible on pricing.

I'm in the process of doing a Retna to STI conversion. I should really update my post lol, it's almost finished. It's a huge job. Basically a complete reshell... Going right down the the bones of the car and building it back up. You will need a crashed/blown up/dereg car to swap the turbo parts onto, and basically none of the stuff on the factory shell is usable. We're talking, subframes out, fuel tank out, all driveline components out, all wiring out including interior. Then the same to the turbo car before you swap it all onto the non turbo body. All the mounting points ect are there and it's not actually a difficult swap just a huge amount of labour involved. If I were to do it again I would pick a ver 3 sti as the parts car. It's allows for the most simplicity in swapping parts, in regards to the interior. They only pop up twice a year on average. And priced from 1-5k depending on condition/road worthy ect. They are prone to rust so check that before you buy. It's a heck of a lot easier to buy a type R that's got a rough exterior and repairing/modifying that, than doing the conversion. I've enjoyed my retna conversion tho, it's been a real challenge mixing and matching all the parts, if you're up for a project that rapidly spirals out of control then do it I also think they make cool sleepers... if you were so inclined

Nothing

Yup its there, directly under that radiator pipe

I think he's taking about the charcoal canister that filters fuel fumes. You don't seem to have one in the same place as a GC8 for example.

I love my 6 speed conversion, but it probably was 10k i didn't need to spend

See what MCA across the ditch have to offer.

Where's best to run the tube in for a boost gauge for my unmolested 1989 BC5 [emoji16] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For big power yea, but not completely necessary for the power he's gonna make with that turbo.

Ha! So it is. Couldn't see the wood for the trees.

@Conducks is to get rid of his fleabay specials

Thanks guys, this has been really helpful! So the bottom line is i may be able to get my hands on a 2011 sedan GVB STI for maybe 30k ish (im hoping under if a miracle happens). Pretty confident i can sell my car for a good price, dealer offered me 21k, so hopefully should be able to get 23k ish if i sell it myself. Is it worth it? Considering the mods and performance i have out of my 2003 STI? The GVB will be pretty much stock apart from exhaust i think. Also a side question, does anyone know what turbo is in the JDM 2011 GVB?

Subjective but yes imo they sounds great on wrx's and are near perfect for a daily driven car; don't drone, nice note, awesome quality, STi part (if that's your thing). They're definitely not the loudest exhaust out there though if that's what you're after.

What's the best place to get this magic stuff from? @1randomkiwi you used it too right? See hyper stock it.

I'd go for the flats, raised are for classier rims or perhaps more concaved (in my books anyway). PS: anyone looking for a set of flat Work caps in black?..

Not sure sorry, the ones I'll be selling are Bridgestone RE002s, 2have good tread, other 2 have good tread but inner edges are worn, probably best for someone wanting some good track tyres without forking out for new ones, will do a deal for cs members when I sell them

nice one @THUNDA I use meguiars hot wheels which is probably the cheaper choice but ive got to really get in there with the water blaster to take the road sludge off. Just out of interest are your tires directional?

As per evowrx's comment. MCA suspension. We've got them in @Furze's GC8 and they're awesome.

IMHO I like the Raised Standard - Silver Centre - With the Zerosports trim you have on yours it holds a certain level of class. IMO Carbon fiber is only cool when its used for its purpose. Sure it looks "cool" but on a small center cap it looks cheap and tacky even if it is actual carbon and not cheap, it still holds the appearance of something unnecessary. That said, all options look clean, whatever you go for will look tidy, you always seem to tidy loose ends up . most people would roll capless and call it a day

cheers bro @THUNDA ! looking forward to seeing the RS back on the road again and boosting around the track

Ewwww, go raised! Sent from my K3 Note using Tapatalk

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating#Research_Octane_Number_.28RON.29 TLDR: US displayed octane rating is 4-6 lower than what what we see on our pumps.

Over on Nasioc there are many threads about guys putting in an accessport in and refreshing with off the shelf tunes. It can be refreshed with different stages depending on mods. But it seems that its not the great if you don't have the right parts for the tune or use really crappy gas. Many people have been known to throw a stage whatever reflash and break the car then take out the accessport, take off the aftermarket partsT and then take back to dealer for a new engine. They also run a lower octane (I think Theither highest is about our 95) and also there are different qualities of fuel, some places are known for the bad fuel they sell. Also not sure if it was a design or manufacturering issue but the US cars are made in the US not Japan.

Tried Dragons breath today, pretty happy with results, not much elbow grease required, rims that had the product on the longest came up the best, so do the full 10mins if they are stubborn with using other products, looks like it melts the brake/road stains off the paint. interesting product. Will have a set of RE002s for sale in a week or 2, they are 225/45/17 Will also have 2 Spare v7 wheels which ill be selling seperately for people who want a full size rim in the boot instead of the space saver The set I currently have on the RS has 1 Bent wheel and 1 wheel with abit more curbing on it than I like. So when I get the RS back ill be using the best 5, swapping my D2 Semi Slicks onto them so ive got a semi slick on the spare in the boot aswell Oh and cheers for the wheels @4G63B8 ^_ ^

The design of the header and collector can play a bigger part than the whole tuned etc debate. http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/50300-stock-headers-vs-ssi-style-headers/

Oh boy this is me on a daily basis trying to defend Subarus....Most people think "Oh nah Subarus are S***. You tried changing the spark plugs? I ran 25 psi with my boost tap and it blew up, Thats crap! My skyline ran 30psi all day and it still goes!" Working at Supercheap for 5 years really did bring out the idiots who should never touch a car let alone own a Subaru. I had people buy shitty 20w-50 oil to run in their post GC Subarus because it was cheap..Oh and did i mention they used the whole bottle when all the needed was 1L instead of 4L? I think the main reason and biggest reason is they have a bad name. Just like Honda's do. Now i will admit i do give Honda's a bit of stick but end of the day they are still good cars and that is the same with Subarus. As many of you have mentioned here, Look after your car and it will look after you. Now my 02 WRX has done almost 300,000kms...on a stock block. Its lasted a trackday, drive to the bottom the south island and back, The odd paddock bash and daily driving for 3 years. If thats not reliability then i dont know what it is. Of course i have played with it a bit(Turbo back exhaust from a GC8 with no cats, adjustable suspension, thicker rear swaybar from an STI etc) but i service my car every 5,000km without fail using GOOD QUALITY products and meeting all the right specifications. The amount of truth in this statement is crazy. Most people buy a Subaru, Run it on 91 or 95(95 isnt too bad but i always run my subarus on 98), Do Launches which ofcourse a standard Trans, Transfer Case & Diff cant really handle, Clutch kick, Go to Trackdays without a baffled sump(if its a track like Hampton & Puke that have big right handed sweepers) and blow their motor due to Oil Starvation & then blame the car for obviously breaking when really it was their own stupidity and negligence that caused the problems in the first place. As the old saying goes, A good Tradesman never blames their tools. And personally i think that 100% applies with cars too.. However each to their own, kind of good in a way cause it keeps the idiots away from Subarus and raising the parts prices because there is more demand. Seen the price for a standard S14 vs a WRX? BIG difference but only because Silvia's, Skylines, 180's etc are popular and there is a high demand for them. People can say whatever they like but i love my Subaru and i always will. Nothing and nobody will change that

If you track or modify a Subaru you're almost certainly going to want to change the oil every 3 months (with expensive oil that most young people just can't afford), properly warm and cool it down, run 98 fuel etc. They're not as foolproof or as low maintenance as other cars especially anything N/A. I do find it weird though that RB's have a reputation as being bulletproof as they seem ridiculously unreliable to me, every time I go to a track there's 6 tow trucks loading various Nissan's to be carted away

200kg heavier than My 98 Forester! That however has nothing left in it eexcept 2 front seats and the dash. be lighter if i go tthe massive sun roof out of it too