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Didn't have time to watch it all. But wheres the drifting at? Given your age and the fact you seem to know the answers to everything, I would have expected you to be chucking it in backwards at least at the hairpin and driving somewhere approaching the limit of adhesion. Good to see you have tried out the track. But if you ever want to drive properly fast, come to Wellington to one of our hillclimb *actual motorsport* events. Happy to take you out as a passenger and help encourage you to do this stuff legally more often, as once you realise that you can race fast round corners legally, that's much more fun than this straight line sh*t! Ohh and if you ever go back to the track, please make sure to get a driving instructor, you might learn some stuff. Turns out those guys that have been racing for a long time do actually know more than the average driver

Gearbox finally in. Still got lots to do before Saturday. But will be going for pack laps, popping off for an alignment then back to the track for some fun. Was seriously getting worried that I would have to take the Outback round😢

Had to get some new pads for flatnats so thought I’d try the Bendix Street Road Track. They are the next level above the ultimate. Will know how they go this weekend anyway.

HAH at last someone said it, Only Legacy's can go that fast! (due to the Gearing)

you can get those bbs in both flavours. looks good on the wagon. you guys are so mean. back in the original post he was cruising at 260kw not 260km/h - which is a physical impossibility for a grb sti.

Old: Realm Esplenade, end of Royal Road. New: (just for you @sobanoodle )

This won't fix delta's problem, sounds like he's dumping too much heat into his brakes for 294mm rotors and/or current pads to handle. The 316mm rotor and caliper to suit is found on BL/BP turbo and 3.0R excluding Outbacks and all BM/BR turbo and 3.6R including Outbacks. Tribeca and GRF WRX STi A-Line should in theory have the exact same calipers, but those are harder to get hold of anyway. The rotor you need is DR9541V - I stock these but most parts places will be able to cross the number over. Bendix number for the pad to suit is DB1722.

My word you are a spectacular bellend. Your old man might want you to enjoy his success/money while he's still around to see it, but does he know that you behave like a spoilt brat a complete spanner to boot? Stacking humblebrags like they're going out of fashion... ugh.

thinking about getting a backup ECU where all 4 codes on the label match exactly ($80 +shipping at overseas wreckers). just in case i get an ECU flash wrong (again!) or something else ECU related goes wrong, shouldn't happens anyways was thinkin car is 07 facelift BPE outback with keyless entry and button start is it possible to switch ECU's and reprogram the key ? or does the immobilizer system stuff up that scenario haven't tried key programming there's a page @ How to Program Your Newer Subaru Keyless Entry Fob/ Remote | TheDIYGuy

Is this opportunity only available to Conducks or can i come too? [emoji14]

I'm no expert but usually I ask for around 1.5 degree negative camber front, 1 degree negative rear and and 2-4mm total toe out at the rear and 0 at the front on a GC8. Seems to give a decent drive that doesn't follow cambers heaps and isn't stupidly hard on tires. Would also be interested to hear what others do.

That's not too far, I could even drive there to try out my new suspensions now that I've done an alignment All good info, thanks guys. Just upgrading the fluid and pads could be enough as long as I don't track it. I'm in no hurry so I'll put some more thought into it.

you my friend have some interesting diy ideas, the nerdy side of me loves stuff like backup ecu mod. sorry cant answer yoru question, jsut chiming in with that moral support lol

@Conducks you should take this gentleman up on his offer mate, seems like you got the passion for the sport just need someone to guide you the right way

haters gonna hate brah

Kinda wish i lived in auckland now, this game looks like a bit of fun, think Rotorua is a bit small for a game like this, also think id be the only one playing haha

Yeah, you've gotta get it sent to Subaru to get the new ECU coded to the vehicle, even if it's an identical ECU

Grabbed off a YouTube video cause I’m not stupid enough (Ya’ll will probably say I am stupid enough) This is gonna be my last post on here cause everything I say just triggers people. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

that was fast! serves me for not travelling further than 5min down the road from the last one. lol @ also having the bonnet up haha. the people that live there must be so confused

I'll see if I can find my alignment sheet as it drove bloody well... off the top of my head it was -1.5 on all 4 corners for the camber, can't remember the rest.

Sounds like what @knockoutgiant had to do. Pretty sure he had an identical ECU and just had to go to a Subaru dealer to get it all playing nice together.

Well, to be honest, I'm no expert in alignment All I asked for is to get as much camber from the front as they can and I trusted them for the other values. What I know is that if you throw your car around, it's nice to have negative camber and it will limit tyre wear. -1° or -1.5° look like good values to me if you use your car on the street. -2° or more should probably be reserved for track use. But you won't be able to get those values unless you have the right mods. Regarding toe, a friend doing time attack likes to keep it at 0 but I'm not good enough to give you an opinion on that.

Disclaimer : this is an attempt to go back on topic. Got an alignment done today : Toe was waay off, money well spent !

camera is blurry as heck but here ya go. nice way to enjoy my day off haha, happy diwali everyone! Old : Royal Rd intersection with Westgate Drive. Mesiana Church or something. new (yes its not far, i too am lazy, and just as well i didnt go very far, see pic below LOL): extra bonus pic - discovered fuel leak looks like will have to replace one of those fittings hope it's an easy job lol.

I drive a legacy bg5 and i need some help identifying what issues my car has. Issue 1 is that on a cold start I have noticed I get alot of what is possibly steam out of my exhaust? No noticeable smell like burnt oil or coolant just happens every morning in what I think is an excessive amount. I have a catless primary down pipe also a small but consistent loss of coolant, haven't been able to locate the leak and am unsure whether these could be related. Another issue I've been having is this persistent smell of oil or over fueling when on primary boost, have a replacement turbo to drop just haven't had the time to install yet, I suspect it's the primary leaking oil because I have oil within the tmic but could it also be a leaking injector causing the smell? Or the white smoke on cold start due to running rich? Just done a 5000kms service and my oil was pretty darn black, Anyone know where I can get them serviced? Any input is appreciated, cheers

220 seems a bit soft for that sort of HP. You sure you were doing it right?

Waiting on a quote to repair the "paint" on the rear quarter of the car, after chasing a Porsche cup car at pukekohe, and running out of talent at castrol, that will teach me. Luckily mainly got away with it.

If there's one thing I've learned from having kids, it's that they really have no idea how ridiculous their stories are =]

Mods: any chance of a face palm emoji?

Forever alone

Your first issue is too many turbos. If it's just steam, as in water vapour, don't worry. Sign of a healthy engine. Burning coolant stinks, and really stings the eyes, so you'd know if it was that. Oil smoke is blueish, so again, you'd know. Maybe time for a pressure test to pinpoint that coolant leak? If the pressure drops, clamp the lines on both sides of the turbo. If the pressure drop stops, you've found your leak.

The little fulla is back to life. V7 sti semi closed block and V4 sti ra head.