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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/12/17 in all areas

  1. Doing an EZ30R conversion The biggest annoyance about this conversion is if you are trying to fit it into an old chassis, you will find the nose of the new cars are bigger and have more room for the radiator, which isn’t a major issue if your creative, but other wise it’s a very straight forward swap! Mechanical Exhaust: You either make up your own exhaust manifold to go around the front cross member, which will be time consuming if you want them to be a tuned length. Easiest is to go under the cross member but then the lowest part of your car becomes the exhaust manifold which is a pain as I have bent mine up a bit because of it Other option is to do between the block and the cross member which is a very tight fit and will require much beer to achieve The way I did it though is to put the standard EZ30R extractors on the motor and scallop out the front cross member, which is the easiest and performance wise the best as it has tuned length extractors from factory. You wont have any issues with getting a LVV cert with chopping out your cross member but you need to made sure you do it smooth, and not leave shape corners in the cross member post cutting as it is a prime region for a crack to occur. The one big down side is that your headers become the lowest thing to the ground under your car and will get wrecked it you like been stupidly low. Radiator: Easiest Option: Get an EZ30D radiator out of a BH legacy as they will fit in most standard radiator areas quite easy. This is what I have done. If you are keeping it NA then this will easily do the job, you just need to make sure you have decent fans!!! The factory ez30R radiators are LOADS bigger and most cases you wont fit them in there so its not worth the effort, you are better off doing the below. Best Option: Alloy radiator, which will have to be custom, or a modified ver 8 sti one, as no one makes one for the ez30r off the shelf that I have found so far. Fans - You need to use slim fans, which will take some hunting around. For my main fan i managed to score from a parts bin a thin air conditioning radiator fan with a steel shroud on it. I used this as my main fan because it was 2 speed and worked really well with the shroud on it  Throttle Body: Unless you want to go fly by wire, you need to scrap the standard one. Cheapest option is to get a falcon throttle body (im pretty sure mine was either that or a commodore one but I cant remember because it was so long ago) from a wreckers and a custom bracket to hold your throttle cable. Then you will also need to buy a bosch throttle position sensor to go with this also. If you use a commodore or a falcon TB, there is lots of veins in it which need to be welded up and then have the face that attaches to your plenum milled down. Air Con: You can choose to hook this up, but you will need to get some custom lines made up etc. Plus you MAY have issues with the AC pump on the ez30r needing an external thermostat because of the differences in the systems between the BC/BF legacy systems and the BL/BH systems Power Steering: Just use the EZ30R steering pump, you just need to braise some lines together, which isn’t much Electrical: ECU options are still kind of limited, the best option here is a link g3 plus (if you can find one 2nd hand, but there aren’t many around) or buying a g4 extreme. For the value for money aspect, i would buy anything else because you will end up wasting serious coin in that department. If you are considering using a standard ECU, STOP!! They are a whore of a thing, im just going to leave it at that. And if you are keen enough you still have to pay Subaru NZ to de-immobilize it, which isn’t cheap!!! Recommended extras: GET A BIG CLUTCH!! Because you have torque instantly, it is very easy to destroy a factory clutch by miss timing releasing the clutch and putting your foot right up it.
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  2. Anyone know who this may be? Sounds like it has SS exhaust but other than that it appears stock from the outside.
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  3. I had a light one circa 4kg ish and loathed it as a daily. Couldnt see any merit to it tbh. Hated the way it died on casual downshift and coming to a stop.
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  4. Well if you're spending all that $$ anyway, may as well spend an extra $300 and get a fancy flywheel. They are a tiny bit S*** to drive in stop-go traffic as it's easier to bog the car and stall, but when you rev-match a downshift with a light flywheel it's quite a beautiful thing.
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  5. I do like the black or dark ones but have owned before and found a PITA for scratches and keeping clean. The white pearl has a nice shine and don’t show marks or dirt as much. We have a young toddler so expect the odd scratch or ding.
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  6. Na I've got a log, and awaiting a peak at the tune. I should have been clearer, there was a mention of a lower rpm limit over 100c, but it never went over 95c. It's hitting gp rpm limit 1, which is different to the rpm limit you're describing.
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  7. but that screenshot is from my config, not his. i thought his standard rpm limit was already much lower , like rpm limit of 6.5k or something like that (regardless of condition). did you get to access his file to see the setup on that table? it was just my best guess that this is what is most likely happening
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  8. It's not getting too hot, ECT wise it's max of 95c (therefore rpm limit of 8100 & well above the 5.5kish it's cutting at) And although an oil cooler isn't going to hurt, I'd be getting a oil temp sensor and seeing what oil temp is doing first.
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  9. i meant conversion lol. tinging either end is a terrible idea , the front will hinder your own vision and the rear will get you in S*** with insurance claims if someone rear end you. not sure why people do these things!
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  10. this is whats going on bro, not sure if you have access to yours to see the exact values but its the protection set up on the link by pbms. it's ect (engine coolant temp). there is rpm limit based on that on both ends (whether its' too cold or too hot). there are other limits in other tables too which will retard/enrich timing depending on temps, but most likely this is what you're hitting. if as they say , ECT of 110 is not a bad thing, you could potentially play around with this? its obvs at your own risk, PBMS would have set it up to metrics they felt were super safe boost limite table based on ECT (note that's MAP so includes BAP in figure too). rpm limit based on ect. yours would be a bit different obvs since our redlines and engines are different, but if you find rpm limit after certain temp then culprit is this table right here.
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  11. Looking at a log ECT gets to a max of 95c, and isn't the cut so not really an issue. Oil pressure appears fine with no drops while revs are up. Can't pin point what the gp1 limit is, thinking it's a table with two things i'm not thinking of.
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  12. Find a steep hill.. Drive up in 4th gear.. At 3000rpm stamp on the gas.. This should tell you the condition of the clutch..
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  13. 1. It's the clutch. 2. It's the clutch. 3. Pretending it's not the clutch will not make it not the clutch. 4. I bet you're going to pretend it's not the clutch and send it to get tuned and Chris will come back and say "I couldn't tune it because the clutch just slipped a whole bunch when I loaded it on the dyno" 5. It's the clutch. 6. My advice is to stop considering which wheels you want to put on it and instead replace the clutch.
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  14. Hey guys, Not sure how many guys on here have 3.0r's? but I haven't had much luck finding info on people modifying them. I have seen the huge power people in the States are getting from Turbo/SC conversions, but I'm just looking at mild upgrades I/H/E etc, just really wondering what gives the best bang for bucks really, with this being my first Suby, I'm not sure what improvements I could expect to see from the N/A boxer. Cheers in advance.
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  15. Unless you want to pull the thing apart and rebuild it I would leave it. The only thing that will give you a decent amount of more go go will be an ECU (Link G4 Extreme), but the amount more you get out of it will hardly justify the money aspect. You wont get much more power out of it in NA form unless you spend big dollars doing head work, in which case i would rather spend my coin putting a turbo onto it.
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  16. At the start Finished, note the massive gap between radiator and engine, plus the overflow bottle My Old not really tuned at all exhaust Tuned Exhaust Making the cold air box
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