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@killervq30de I got back from the tune last night. The guys at Rapid we’re really friendly and helpful when I dropped the car off and were happy to install the parts too. ...as @Andy_Mac had warned me about with the auto turbos, there was a lot of knock when they were trying to tune it down low, so there wasn’t huge gains there, but overall there was a nice smooth gain especially at the top end. My car had lost a few horses over the years too, it was only running about 155hp and was 200hp after the tune and installation of the downpipe/boost solenoid. I will admit though that the top end now is amazing, it holds the boost really well and thing really flies up to 230 kmph with ease. Whilst tuning they also noticed I had a slight leak on my radiator and so it limited the tune a little as they didn’t want to make it unsafe. I’ll swap it out this week and it will be fine though. If you are tuning these go for 98 if you can (I only did 95) they are tuned in Japan for 100 octane and so 95 isn’t ideal. I’ve also seen an 07 LGTB being tuned on 98 gaining 15/20 kw more than what mine did which is insane good! Overall, I’m happy with the tune/mod combination. I do think I’ll keep my Wagon until after winter/early 2019 and look at selling it and keeping an eye out for a well looked after 08-09 Impreza hatch, but I change my mind all of the time!

I had some of the old model of these in my old old old Leggy wagoon, and a 2" pipe all the way to the back, made quite a big difference to the stuffed cat and std mufflers etc. Clicky clicky! Heat wrap will make a big difference, plus its cheap, bit of a PITA to fit under the car tho! Aye, I've been a busy bee lately, stupid house needing paint... mutter mutter...

The later sti 09+ have that mount changed to something similar to the Motorsport whiteline. The Motorsport whiteline ones are a good upgrade over stock ones. Steering is far more direct and if you get the steering bushes as well you'll feel every bump and tiny stone in the road. The steering wheel feedback isn't uncomfortable but it does vibrate slightly with the road surface, so you can feel the grip level constantly. All the slop and dead zone is removed from the wheel as well so input required to turn is less. they also remove the damping of the factory bush trying to stay level so the arm moves more freely. while the stock bushes may look ok on the car, if you unbolt the arm and put a big screw drive through the bolt hole and leaver it you'll most likely see some serious cracking.

I have the kca334 in my car and the first one lasted about 50000km before perishing. The next one is still good 30000 on

pivot Speed meter or Apexi unit used to be the go for speed cut

Just dont go throwing it hard into right handers. That's about it really. Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

Probably because you can feel it and fix it long before it's fatal by going to the petrol station.

Mine. my GP limits were the only reason my engine did not go nuclear (totally worth the investment). I got down as low as 25psi on a corner - was super frustrating at the time travelling two hours to track for a 1 lap limp. My issue was mainly that when the engine was rebuilt the mechanic didn't think it still needed the windage tray. But I log and review after each run... IMO 5 minutes of checking totally worth it. see my build thread I think there is a post with my revised oil pressure maps.