Leaderboard

Managed to grab an old race suit from one of the guys at work who did stock car racing so will be the slowest out there but look like a pro in the process haha

exhaust turbo upgrade bigger injectors and pump then tuned it up all on the stock ecu has launch control and antilag for the owner as well for some some show off fun this was on the stock top mount (we will get a front mount and push it a bit more actually)

@Saleti what area u in? if in auckland or can travel here, we just did a 260kw on a v7 with very minimal mods and still on 98 pump gas...

thats pretty cool, which turbo and more importantly how was the power curve? getting more and more curious about what is the best bang for buck on the v7. i've learned in fairly expensive way that chasing top power is pointless and should be more concerned about the distribution of that power through the rev range.

Yip, didn't make the distinction, the average Joe doesn't even know the difference but I guess people on this forum are not the average Joe so I'm not allowed to say that here haha

Also agree the oem filters are $9.00NZD +14.42 for Freight which makes even buying 1 filter pretty cheap! if you bought 10x youd be looking around $4.50 per filter! pretty awesome price for an OEM Filter https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=15208AA100

Yip but only patches of rain so far, Monday is meant to be full on rain. As long as everyone prepares then hopefully it won't rain at all. http://www.metservice.com/towns-cities/palmerston-north Do playday have any of the garages open for wet days?

Yeah, become acquainted with Partsouq. Get consumables and other kiff bundled with parts orders to cut down on shipping. We'll have to pay GST on lower value orders soon, so get shopping.

Isn't 4WD made for that? (bad weather)

Delta and I are heading off around 2pm Friday. If people would like to join us? Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

Looking like wet weather in wairarapa this Saturday Damn it! Drive safe all

I just got 6 OEM one's last time I did a partsouq order. Cheap as chips from there. I use copper washers instead of silly crush ones

Up to you, for the sake of a few dollars i run OEM, don't forget the crush washer as well.

I'm sure there has been much more advanced study/calc's done on this, would be good to find and have a read. But i'm sure for the majority pretty much what @Gripless said above, bends are bads, pipe sizes should be in between the turbo outlet and the TB inlet size. Mines not quite what you're describing, but the hot side does have about 450 degrees of bends in it. After having reading through this and getting my head around it, I think i'll have another attempt.

And then people say there is no noticeable difference between TMIC and FMIC soooo now what haha. To figure this all out, surely you need to take into account the whole journey the air goes on before going bang- intake mani plenum size, valve sizes and head intake ports etc. regardless it is interesting to think and talk about for sure. Probably not in this case but It makes me smile when alot of effort is put into something like perfect flowing intercooler and pipe setup and then the intake mani still has its TGVs in the plenums or there is an angry half kinked silicone 180deg bend coming off the comp housing.

I don't have a car trailer, but I do have a tow bar...

Grap the dyno plot from @Niran build thread linked below. Look at the power at each 500 rpm and the power the car makes. Even a stock turbo sti can push 145 kW at 3500 rpm while that car is still at 100 kW so you're almost 50% more power down low. Niran's already at 190 kW by 3500 rpm so almost double the power i.e. He wins. Now if you draw an imaginary line from say 2000 or 2500 rpm to the peak power. A) the plot should stay above that to be torquey and good to drive. It should start close and go up as vertically as possible then curve across to peak. B) exactly on that line is like BMW and Audi nice linear smooth power. C) If it stays below that line then rapidly come up like a string hanging under the two points the car will be peaky and S*** to drive daily. that one you posted is all over the place so maybe ok to drive but a bit laggy under 4000 rpm as the turbo spools slowly. if you take 10-15% for the header length and another 7-10% for drive train 4wd loss it's no as bad as it seems. plus boxers are balanced motors and weight of the block is stuff all so there are advantages to be found. oh yeah that's 254 kW on a stock turbo so some thing to think about even though it's a 2.5 sti.

V7 STI block is a bit tougher. I drove mine for 3 years at 268 and it's still happy as, gonna be pushing for more soon too.