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or go to Picka Part & 'practice'

Since it seems to be coming up a fair bit right now I figured i’d get the ball rolling with pics of the block i’ve got sitting at home. Anyone with different block castings chuck up some pics of your details so we can get a bit of a comparison going on. Pretty sure this is an older block, maybe v10 era since it has the nitrated crank. 704 casting with a ~8.2mm wall

Source: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f5/t229348-ej-blocks-pictoral-guide.html EJ25 302 Casting YMM Unknown EJ25 (99.50mm bore) Open deck Notable Features Thin cylinder stabilizers High water jacket floor Threaded case vent nipple Striated underside of block This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 640x360. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 640x360. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 640x360. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 640x360. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 640x360. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 640x360. 311/312 Casting 311/312 Casting Album Y/M/M unknown EJ25 (99.5 bore) Open deck Notable Features THICK fore and aft cylinder stablizers High floor in water jacket Pressed case vent nipple Striated surfaces on underside of block 704 Casting 704 Album STI Replacement Block B25CR and B25CR casting marks on bottom of case EJ25 (99.5mm bore) Semi-closed deck Notable Features DEEP pockets in water jacket Extra ribbing on LH top side Dual, pressed case vents 903 Casting 903 Album MY07 Legacy EJ25 (99.5mm bore) Open deck Notable Features Thin fore and aft cylinder stabilizing pins Low floor in water jacket casting Threaded nipple for case vent

been looking at stock location turbos but they all seem to be not for a proper 300kw.. thkinking of making a jig for a twisted TS setup..so we all can have some evo killing machines

That'll be interesting, I'll check it out!

Make sure the dealer is "updating the PAK file" and not just resetting the TCU. Anybody can reset the TCU with a $15 VAG-COM cable,whereas only dealers can update the software. Definitely reset the TCU first and see if that helps.

Prying on the plastic for the first time is always daunting. The clips are really tough initially but will pop in and out easily thereafter. You’re just going to have to go for it to be honest, I’d suggest getting a mate to assist. Pry from four points (as close to the clips as possible) and pop them all out at once. Goodluck dude!

I want all of these. The 1-2 low speed shift is F***ing horrible sometimes, especially when the car is cold.

S*** that's a rip off!! I could have saved you another $60 on the kits i have access to.

Slower is more fun! you have to carry speed and learn to be smooth. With more power you don't drive the same and you can hide many bad lines. Ive already unlearned almost everything since having too much power plus slow cars are cheaper and if you come off the track it doesn't go into the wall at all or way softer at worst. So you can push more and then it's more fun.

Dude exactly, Also a slower car is often way more fun, it lets you get the lines completely wrong and still get out of it, and yeah lap times and from the outside its slow but lets be honest when you in the car it feels amazing!

That blue Suby look cool On the other hand I don't really like the white one, stance is not my thing. I totally agree with what the guy says at 7:00 BTW. You don't need mods to bring your car to a trackday, just learn how to drive it at the limit first, identify what is limiting you and upgrade it step by step.

Thats what a turbo is... it chops up all that bees and nasties

http://brunsolutions.com.au/downloads/d1-nzhowtoshim.pdf heres the old d1nz Nissan diff shining guide, few links on the internet suggest it's the same unit as the Subaru unit on the inside. Could always check if anyone on here or a low end model has the stubs you need to run the good diff.

I'm tempted to weld up the spare viscous diff I have and try it, but I think i'd be getting some spare axles in case. at least if its welded and it snaps and axle it'll still drive... The supersix commodore/falcon race cars run welded diffs and don't seem to break too much related to that, but they are running a limited tyre size too. on a side note I thought I'd try chuck a suretrac diff in that i acquired a while ago but found they need equal length axle stubs and mine arnt. will keep a lookout for some axles incase i get motivated again.

Welding it will put a heap more strain on your cvs and axles, and increased tyre wear.

Yeah diffs are expensive... rebuilding them is expensive too.