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He's a bloody good mechanic !

Was out at Subirex today talking to Ajay.Impressed with his enthusiasm for doing a good job and Subaru work history.

I don't think so .. its knocking under load, quite heavily. Anything over -2.81 is bad If it was a vac leak it would add fuel. Just this week my BTSSM was showing at idle it was adding 15%, luckly for me it was just a little vac hose had popped off my the intake manifold. It does add fuel under load but I think that's normal but obviously not that high... should be <=5% You should add fuel learn % to your logs as well as FKC FLKC. You should be able to log the major counters with BTSSM. Resetting your ECU will just mask the error. IAM needs to be at 1.0 before the car is happy you are back at normal operating levels, reset drops that to 0.5, yours dropped lower than .5

Saw your car at TuneTechnic,David’s another good bloke.

I have a 2001 Legacy GT 2.0 with code 45 pressure sensor, I suspect this is the MAP sensor; is it? Is there a test for this sensor, how is it carried out? this vehicle idles like crap when it's cold and as it gets warm it is much improved; any GURUS out there want to advise on this one? Vin # BH5-142519 Eng# B3230864.

Yes, you could change your hubs to the Version 9-10 STI 5x114.3 ones, but be aware it is not a cheap exercise unless you can find second hand parts for a good price. The 5x114.3 front knuckle assembly has a thicker clevis and the hole spacing for the lower shock mounts is different. You either have to use V9-10 front shocks, or have the knuckle machined thinner, and one of the shock mount holes re-drilled to use your existing shocks. Once that's done, just bolt everything on. You have a couple of options for the rear.... I am not too familiar with the Foresters, but is yours an STI? and if so, does it have the R180 rear diff etc? If you do have an R180 diff, then you should be able to just get a set of V9-10 rear hubs and swap them over with your existing ones. Or, the other option is to use the 5x100 R180 rear hubs, and re-drill them to 5x114.3, and re-fit the studs. They have enough meat in them to be re-drilled, I did this on my old race car and it was fine, BUT, I am guessing your car will have ABS and re-drilling may interfere with the large bolt-on tone rings that I have seen on some of the later rear hubs (my car was a GC8 RA so no ABS etc). If your car doesn't have an R180 rear end, then you will need to change the rear end to R180 (axles and diff) to make the 5x114 hubs fit your car - just comes down to how much you want to spend, so if that;s out of your budget, the 5x100 to 5x114 adapters would be the far easier/cheaper option (even with a cert).

the rotated setup would be nice ID 1000 work great as used on a few cars that i have tuned. FMIC - dependinig on budget u can also do mushimoto as they do a good unit exhaust - you will need to get some custom fabrication done have u got a shop that has done this for u? @Subirex Automotive would do a nice build if you are looking for suggestions.

I had ID1000 injectors on my old car,which worked really well. Have you thought about getting a custom exhaust set up made locally? Might be around the same price or possibly cheaper than freighting one over from overseas? Otherwise keep an eye out on Trademe and Subaru Speed. i found my 3inch Fujitsubo exhaust for $400 when i was looking. If you decide to go Genuine with your turbo, give me a yell as I can get hold of Garrett and Borg Warner for good prices.

I'll be moping around in the Avenger again no doubt, if we still have a house in Ashhurst the offer for a bed or two (and lawn if you keen to tent) is there again like Mega meets just been