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these figures will be at the crank and will saturate at 280ps as per the Japanese gentlemen agreement at the time. Anything above 280ps will simply show as 280ps.

Shelly Bay Sprint yesterday. Only managed 10th place unfortunately. I haven't entered this event for 10 years and it's very technical with an unforgiving bite if you make a mistake. And I had my daughter on board and her mother would have killed me if I landed in the rocks below. That's all my excuses. Plus only 1 second separating 10th and 5th

2008 2.0lt GT legacy. I was getting occasional very hard shifts under hard acceleration and on inclines, sometimes with flashing transmission temp, ABS light and traction control light. The fault decode was P1710, “turbine speed 2 sensor”. 99.9% of the time the car drove very smoothly. Research on forums and other online info I was able to determine the fault. The sensor is a HALL effect transducer incorporating a transistor and from experience transistors do not like getting hot. Given that these symptoms were occurring under hard acceleration and on inclines I deduced that the sensor was being overheated by transmission oil, reducing the oil level seemed to stop the fault codes but hard shifting still occurred. Subaru’s Fix was a new valve body at $3300. This is a known fault and Subaru has subsequently modified the valve body. I removed the valve body, detached the sensor as seen in below photo. I then purchased a generic Hall effect 12mm sensor SENSPD500 from MSEL in Marua road, Pamure. I mounted it at the same height and position as the original sensor as per the photo below. To date, 3 months in, the car drives sweet, no hard shifts, no fault codes.

This isn't absolutely necessary with most Subaru's, as they don't have a heater tap. But, as I was a mechanic once upon a time, it was always good practice. Plus Subaru's are known for air pockets. You can bleed all the bigger ones out, but over 1-2 weeks they'll self bleed all the other small ones - just keep an eye on the overflow bottle. But by the sounds of things here - sounds like something bigger is afoot. With the thermostat - test it in a cup of boiling water: it's only two 10mm bolts to get the housing off of the water pump. Plus - the bleed valve needs to be placed at the top. The bleed valve helps bleed out air pockets behind the thermostat.

previous owner had it done, with receipts.

I'm finding it had to believe that info... it says the WRX (apart from the WRX wagon) has as much power as the STi, just slightly less torque.

Is that a real thing though, because water flows through the heater core permanently... the heater/aircon controls just dictate where the air is sent... i.e through the heater core or through the aircon core.

Are you sure it is using more fuel than usual or could it be due to the exchange rate at the fuel pump operating at a lower level?

Old - by the old Railway Station in the CBD That's not my number in the photo 😂 Friend decided to write my old number in my dirt - it just goes straight to voicemail New

Unfortunately I'm not cool enough to know what those are.

lols. my current car used to have some bs in the tune to make it backfire constantly off throttle. Was annoying as hell.

people pay good money to get bangs, pops and backfires. every new sporty car seems to do this now.

I would say oxygen sensor

I would speculate the AFM is failing.