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Showing content with the highest reputation on 30/10/18 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    What Kent did around ten years ago was pretty cool, 10sec 1/4 with a stockish turbo and plenty of nos is no easy feat. It’s also not everyday a Subaru runs a 10sec quarter or even an 11 with the amount of supposed 300+kw Subaru’s out there these days. There would be less than ten Subaru’s in nz to have gone 10sec or faster. We are pretty proud of what the car has achieved so far and look forward to going quicker. Cheers Matt.
  2. 2 points
    Ok fill in a blank for me here, seems not that rapid for a built motor and Gt3582? Kent from Speedsource went 10.9 with the stock turbo in a GDB? Edit: ok it seems Subarus need heaps of beans to go down the strip in a fast time, good stuff. Speedsource must have been doing some magic sh!t...
  3. 1 point
    Last Saturday lolgtr ran a 10sec pass at meremere. It’s a 95 Wrx sti running a built motor, 6 speed, r180 setup, gt3582, road tuned on pump gas. Finally a Subaru to compete with the fast evos and mitsi’s. https://www.facebook.com/LOLGTR/photos/a.1803500459769689/2028193253967074/?type=3
  4. 1 point
    I got all the parts I need to do the Sedan conversion on the front. I have new Sedan rack ends, Alloy arms, new whiteline bushes/anti lift kit and sedan sway bar/links. Do I need to use an inner rack end remover tool or can I just use some locking pliers (forgot the name). Do I need new rubber boots/washers or anything like that? Sway bar I just need to remove the sub frame and a plate in the middle afaik. Then tighten everything with front wheels on ground. Control arms should be easy enough. Might also install my group N engine mounts as I might have better access bolts and things with no subframe, sway bar, control arm or rack ends in the way. I'll also install new brake pads at same time. Cant wait untill its all done. Should be interesting after its all done and aligned Any tips would be handy. Edit: still need to install my rocker cover gasket set too....
  5. 1 point
    Hi everyone! I wanted to start this discussion as it seems like there are a few people out there that perhaps aren't getting the most out of buying parts. By all means buying parts from local suppliers is the way to go to for major components in the event of something going wrong and you need a warranty honored. You are also covered by consumer protections and get to support the local industry. Without them when S*** hits the fan and you need a part that day you are relying on them to be in business and wanting to hold stock! However, for small bits and pieces, like genuine gaskets or fasteners or seals, etc, things you simply cannot get here on short notice anyway there are a few options out there that I know myself and others use. I also know there are some services I haven't tried as well so I will start by giving a bit of a review of where I go to get things and hopefully you guys can post about your experiences too! __________________________________ #1 Partsouq.com Huge selection, fast shipping, genuine parts. I have used this multiple times and know others that have and haven't been let down. Awesome website even if you just need to find a part number. #2 jp-carparts.com Huge selection, fast shipping, genuine parts. These people are genuinely helpful, they will find parts for you that aren't even on the website. I have had multiple orders and never been disappointed. I have even got some parts for my Suzuki alto works which is a bit of a nugget and tricky to find new parts for. The website isn't as good as partsouq in my opinion for finding the part numbers - you kind of have to know what youre looking for. So I use partsouq to find the part number and then go here for another price and see which deal works out better. Both partsouq and jp-carparts have both used DHL for all shipments to me and have all been 3-4 days. Partsouq ships from the UAE and jp-carparts from Japan. It usually takes up to 3 days to process an order so I expect parts in 1 - 1.5 weeks. #3 amayama.com from @IZichard Similar to partsouq but has has an even larger selection of parts. So if you find something you really need on partsouq but they don't have it available paste the partnumber into amayama and they will almost always have it. It is a bit more expensive than partsouq so I tend to only use it as a backup for partsouq. It is usually still cheaper than Subaru NZ for odd ball stuff. #4 rockauto.com from @pedro Large range Be aware that US models are different in some ways so pays to cross reference.. Rockauto prices are very low but freight from US is expensive so shop carefully.. #4 Buyee.jp (freight forwarder for Yahoo Japan auctions and Rakuten) I have made quite a few orders through here. Be careful of shipping costs - read all the info! You pay for the item, it gets delivered to their warehouse, then you pay for shipping to NZ. You do not get a guaranteed shipping price until it arrives to them. You have 30 days on each order once it arrives at their warehouse to pay for shipping. If you buy multiple items you can wait for them all to arrive within this 30 days and consolidate them into one package to be sent. You have to judge if this will be worth it, i think there is a small fee. Some very cool stuff on here. If its small and light i use buyee.jp, if it is a larger item I ask @mlracing.co.nz how much to get it here. (Sorry Alex, sometimes I get excited and I can be flakey as!) Alex at moonlight imported made to order rear struts for the s203 from sti japan for me and i got them here for half the cost of what winger was offering. Food for thought... #5 Amazon.com Because why not? I have ordered some things like bulbs from here before that made sense to save a few dollars and get the selection I wanted. Decent shipping times. I have heard of some success stories from rhdjapan.com but have not used these personally so cannot endorse as of yet.. __________________________________ When S*** hits the fan nothing beats going to repco/supercheap/bnt/whoever and getting what you need that day but if you have time to prepare for your servicing and upgrades - shop around and compare to local options, might save a few bucks or get what you wanted. Yahoo auctions has cool collectable stuff like original sti brochures - this is a scan of a brochure i bought to keep with the s203. Also got one for the alto and one for a friend with a ver3 sti. Surprisingly really cheap memorabilia! https://www.dropbox.com/s/x81az0ejteku0my/Subaru STi s203_reduced.pdf?dl=0 ___________________________________________________________________________________________________ As a side note and a PSA - Something I have seen a lot of stuff popping up on trade me being sold as genuine parts when they look like they are from aliexpress. If it seems too good to be true, it probably is. Classic example is sti rad caps and steering wheels. People buy these from aliexpress and sell for 100% margin or more to put your safety and your cars safety at risk. This is how people get hurt, I cant even imagine who would do this with any brake, steering, or safety components. I don't know for sure but obviously very suspect.
  6. 1 point
    What front and center diffs are you running? How much power? Mates 400kw GD has been running fairly contestant 11.6's but traction is letting him down 1st/2nd (average tires admittedly)
  7. 1 point
    Added in to the calendar, the details are here: https://www.4androtary.co.nz/champs/champs-event-info
  8. 1 point
    The air box and air filter might help resolve this. Got to a local pick-a-part (if you have one), or get one from a wreckers for an air box - the cold air intake side of it. The air box clamps and seals the air filter to the air box. Could also be a vacuum/boost leak. See if you can't hear anything when it's idling, and a spray bottle of soapy water handy to spray on something it might be leaking from. Last thing that I would be the suspect would be the ignition coils. Can get them tested at an auto sparky. I'd honestly sort the air box situation first - if you can find the parts in your area, will be a cheap and easy fix.
  9. 1 point
    If you haven't got a turbo yet, I have a brand new GTX3071 with 0.83A/R V-Band turbine housing that I am willing to sell considering I sold my car. It will get you to 300kw with ease. PM me for pricing if you are interested.
  10. 1 point
    I've always used a specific tool. Might be possible without one but frankly I haven't tried. Side note, aftermarket rack ends are often the incorrect parts so probably worth checking the length is right before starting the job and finding out the parts are wrong. It is a good idea to use new washers but as already mentioned you will get new ones with the rack ends you purchase. Rack boots really depends on the condition of you current ones, they tend to perish then crack/split over time with age. It is a good time to replace them though since you are going to take them off anyway. You definitely don't need to remove the subframe, unless you mean the U-brace piece which you will have to remove for the ALK anyway. If you have some blocks or ramps then you could lower the car onto its wheels on the blocks to tighten the LCA bolts. Might make it a bit easier. You can align the front toe fairly close by eye, just set the steering wheel straight then look with one eye down the front wheel to the back wheel which should make it fairly easy to see which way you need to wind the inner rack end to get the wheel straight. Then you should probably drive it straight to the wheel alignment afterwards.
  11. 1 point
    Buy a standard v7 sti engine. Do fuel system, front mount and efr turbo with link. Will produce 300wkw and 500nm easy and should hit fill boost by 3800 ish