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To make it more interesting for everyone to get their heads around, we used the factory auto loom, ECU and the BCM We pulled out the AT control unit and did some magic wiring

Not my car, but we have successfully converted a facelift BP5 auto to a manual 6-speed! CANBUS still working, ready for a tune

yThe 555 saloon was restricted to 500 cars.. The limited edition 555 cars were in reality the same as the run of the mill v2 models with the exception of the paint colours and a number of minor details.. Apart from the sports blue paint,the 555 were given rally style mudflaps and a roof vent that was a purely cosmetic addition.. Could be a nice thing to have depending on condition and originality.. Pretty sure they didnt have a limited edition number on the car except for a built by STI badge by the radiator..

I don't know what I'll be running. However, it won't be any of those. Here's why. The td05's are old as hell technology. They're not a bad turbo, you can just do much better. GTX3071R is a great turbo. Better off getting a Holset or turbo from Steve Murch for the price you pay as Garrett's are EXPENSIVE (for what you get). The Garrett 550 turbo looks to be awesome, but once again, same thing as the GTX3071R. Expensive for what you get and similar results can be had from a much cheaper holset based turbo from Murch. Now I'm not sure what turbo I'll get yet. My build is some time off, but likely I'll either go down the range of EFR's or I will use one of murches new in-house turbos. BorgWarner EFR series Cons. They're god awful expensive. If you nuke it, good luck getting it rebuilt or fixed. They're VERY long. So hard to get in the right spot. PROS: They're bloody amazing with spool characteristics. Built in BOV, wastegate and boost controller. Means much less money spent on extra fabrication work and kinda levels the price difference between a Garrett and holset tbh. All round VERY good turbos when done properly. Holset/Steve Murch turbos Conns: Big turbos. Hard to fit nicely. A lot of fakes out there (holset). Buy genuine from Murch direct. No integrated bov or wastegate. Lots of fab (like Garrett). Holsets can be laggier than the others unless you're twinscroll. This is where Holsets come into their stride. Pros: CHEAP. CHEAP. CHEAP! As long as you've explained your build properly and what you want from the car, Murch can give you exactly or near what you need. Very sharp pricing on rebuilding turbo or servicing etc. NZ made and assembled turbos. That's VERY basic but that's why I'd sway to either of these two, rather than Garrett or an old school TD turbo. Take your pick, but make sure you really keep your mind open and don't for the love of God pick something just because of its brand name. Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

Put 17s on it and ditched the spec b 18s. Sits quite a bit lower now

Thought fixed-backs would fall under this category

road recaros like grb and cs etc are ok for road use but on track they don't hold you well. go for a fixed back seat like the above racetechs or sabelt, sparco etc. new if you can afford it. buying used can bring big savings but can also be like buying a used helmet. caveat emptor.

Racetech dude, fixed back seats but no reason why you cant leave the seat on a mount and swap it for track weekends. I would never look back after getting one its comfy to drive to and from the track, FIA approved so you know its safe plus it supports local business

Have a chat to Tony at DTech. They’re not huge fans of the HRC turbo’s. They do alright but under perform on Subaru’s compared to other brands like Mitsi’s where they really shine. Garrett's and EFR’s are expensive but they behave well. @Jono24 has a Holset in his 3rd gen so could get some tips from him for fitment if you do go that route

Since the manual donor car and auto car were both facelift that won't be an issue. Aussie tuner Matt has done it this way once before too. All electronics stayed as they were and just did some weird custom S*** in the tune. Way over my head though haha

Made it to Whitianga, was a good drive, not much taffic. See you guys tomorrow

Im going to edit the post to show what im doing now.

It's going to be hard, if not impossible to use the 3 point belt with a proper race seat... possibly not allowed in schedule A. I do not think schedule A allows the use a 5/6 point harness without a harness bar any more either.

@sobanoodle i'm clearly showing my lack of knowledge on the subject here hahaha Guess by hardcore racecar seat i mean uncomfortable to drive in the weekends, and 6 point hardness etc.. lol

Whipped up an extinguisher bracket for the other car today. Just did the classic seat bolt mount style with a piece of flat bar that I remember reading about on here ages ago. Here’s hoping I never have to use it.

Dude the NT03 have free shipping! I reckon they'd look mean on a 3rd or 4th gen. They're the same wheels as the 4th gen photo I posted and the wheels on the front of this B4:

@Individualities No need to go too far up the model range. Onboard o2 and E-throttle are the only reason to go further up. Onboard o2 is quite a nice feature as the ECU cost bump between xtreme and fury is less than what you pay to have a separate one setup on the xtreme. You'd probably get away with a storm in reality though. If you're reasonably confident then there’s no reason you can't just get a wire in ECU. This age car is well documented so there shouldn't be any hickups along the way. My vote definitely goes for DTech too.