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Showing content with the highest reputation on 15/08/19 in all areas

  1. I cant locate the link I used but from memory the things you need to do are. Offset clutch cylinder or cut the stock reservoir down and clamp it back to cylinder. Modified mounting brackets. Longer turbo to intercooler hose. You need to shorten the hose from intercooler, to intake manifold so tmic can fit in between fire wall. Possibly need to run aftermarket bov, or make your own hose to recirc the stock v7 bov. V7 intercooler splitter, you will need to drill new mounting holes to make this fit your bonnet. May need to put some rubber on the gearbox pitch stop mount to stop intercooler from rubbing or rattling on it. I think that's mostly it.
    3 points
  2. Conspiracy of the day : what if recalls was just some Made up s*** so dealers could get your car in, rig them to fail sooner than later and upset people while it’s there ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  3. Gearbox is manual - says in the first post yes I Defo want to induce oversteer, I’m so used to Controlling the oversteer from my younger days lol. But when I got a bit of understeer during a corner I was like ewwwww so big rear swaybar it is! I’ve never done a sway bar before - I’m hoping there is a kit that I can just buy off trademe because if I have to measure anything I know I’ll never do it i won’t be lowering it, body roll on gravel / dirt is hard to feel, only feel it when driving on tarmac gripping hard im running a 5% larger than stock A/T tyre on the stock 16inch rim
    1 point
  4. http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/STi8IntercoolerOntoMY00Classic Here is the link I went off. I researched it all and purchased all the parts but never got to fitting the set up in the car. This should give you pretty clear instructions.
    1 point
  5. Geez that's a good deal, I don't even bother putting my own presets back in after disconnecting the battery half the time 😂
    1 point
  6. Awesome, cheers guys. My tuner has an intercooler off a v8 STI so good on that front. i think i saw a few cheap GG wrx v8 cylinders on trademe so will jump on one of those.
    1 point
  7. I've got a V7 intercooler for sale yup. The clutch master is the original v5 though sorry, so can't help there. @blitzd808
    1 point
  8. hah yea & rapid Down changes get the back loose too (I was accused of Handbraking into the Hairpin on the back track of Manfeild) so yeah @THUNDA can you confirm Trans? I did start this thread once and got LOL'ed at
    1 point
  9. I believe any v7 one will work. I think @Niran had a for sale listing with v7 master cylinder. Think he had a few other parts for the conversion that came out of his restore project. I sold my complete v7 intercooler conversion kit to the previous owner of his type R project.
    1 point
  10. Good idea. I might just cut my losses and replace the lot. I like having the factory look but it would also be nice to have a head unit with more modern features. Thanks for your help guys much appreciated [emoji16] Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
    1 point
  11. I meant it could sound s*** if you went for 50+w nominal speakers on an amp expecting 20w which will cause clipping That's how you'd wire it to get 8ohm. For a 3rd gen Legacy it's just as easy to ditch the lot and put in a cheap aftermarket HU and not have to worry about any of this stuff again.
    1 point
  12. Some faults cause the car to go into sport mode - happened when I had CEL due to a fault with a secondary air pump on my 07 STI. That or they went for a joy ride, I’ve seen some interesting stuff on my dash cam from workshop techs going for a “test drive”. high resistance could be signs of a bad connection, corrosion, loose plug. Shorts are usually very low resistance / blown unit
    1 point
  13. Big rear swaybar will induce oversteer, they tend to have a whack of body roll till you get them a bit lower, but very capable. Unless they are auto as joker mentioned, then they are like 70/30 fwd biased and will push like a mofugger into corners with low traction.
    1 point
  14. Took the rear tray off to get to the bottom of the seriously annoying rattles, I’ll upload a video later on. Awesome cost saving measures - more bare metal! After getting foil cuts on most of my fingers (roller hasn’t arrived yet) this is the finished product: Added adhesive foam where plastic was obviously touching metal and sound deadening on key metal points to stop vibration. Being me tho I decided it wasn’t good enough and went a bit further... The plastic bash clips don’t actually sit tightly in most of the trim pieces and the plugs which clip in on the tray rattle like f$ck so I hot glued them all in place and added a bit of sound deadening to the pillar trims to help absorb excess vibration. Tray now sits nice and tight, doesn’t wobble, doesn’t creak or rattle... well done Subaru, you’ve shown just how lazy you are when it comes to finishing off cars
    1 point
  15. Well so far one upsell has been put forward lol. Apparently my fuel filter is dirty, now what I caught them.out on was that he said it could be changed and he hasn't pulled the pump yet.....
    1 point
  16. Gave the legacy a big service today as I have no idea when stuff other than oil and the cam belt were last done as I am first Nz owner. -spark plugs changed and they were actually in good condition -brake fluid flush -rear diff oil changed, fluid was still a decent colour -transmission drained and filled! Fluid was a little brownish but still it bad. Will do a drive tomorrow and then drain and new fluid again. -coolant drained and will fill tomorrow. Waiting on a Torx T70 bit to arrive so I can drain the front diff as well. Overall pretty happy that it looks like someone has looked after the car in Japan.
    1 point
  17. You do what you can eh, I've left my arms looking like a teenager with some serious emotional issues after sound deadening a couple of doors. Amazing how much stuff back there is slicey as a slicey thing.
    1 point
  18. Yeah the diff place that did that and then th bear box said they had a lot of issues with the SG Japan imports as they had cheap as s*** components vs the NZ new ones. I had front and rear sway bars from white line. Rear subframe locks from white line. Camber arms and lots of Cusco bracing along with the coil overs and 4pot/2pot brakes. I used mine in sealed tracks though so different setup for that
    1 point
  19. Car has to go back into the dealers as airbag light keeps coming on. I took it back the same day after the recall work and they admitted there was high resistance in one of the connections but the airbag light was simply a coincidence. It's for the front crash airbag sensor. They reset it and sent me on my way. I said how unlikely it was that it just happens to come on after their work. If they try charge me for the parts then it's going to be a tough day at the office for them. I'm not going to front up costs for a mistake they made. Pretty clear what ever they did wrong shorted something out or the high resistance caused the issue. Plus there was greasey finger marks on both A pillars. Unclipped gear shifter, no idea why they needed to touch that? Dirt on the headrests from where they were working on the fuel pump. Seats were left in the reclined position. Car was also in sports mode. It's never in sports mode so was a bit confused by that. They are not a Subaru dealer so I suspect they just are the only place here who can do the work. Wish I had of travelled to Nelson to do it to be honest
    0 points


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