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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/10/19 in all areas

  1. Wait, no return fuel even on prime or just with ign on? Mine only flows on key on (prime). Bridge the fuel pump relay if you want constant flow (pin 30 to 87). I'd try crank it over a few times, then pull all 4 plugs & see if you think they are covered in petrol, take photos and post them up. Check each one for spark, be ready to replace them. My bet is on plugs assuming fuel is flowing out the return on prime
    3 points
  2. So factory crank is good for 800hp or more Being that is the weakest part of the build it should hold enough power to make the turbo seem tiny Heads are booked for CNC Big porting +1mm valves for both intake and exhaust bronze valve guide fancy valve seat profile seems I have to pin mains to use ARP car bolts since they torque higher and then line bore the main.
    3 points
  3. So, what do you think would be a sensible option for things to do on your car, just a week out from getting it tuned? Pull the dash out obviously! To be fair, it was sorely needed. So much old wiring. I also fixed my central locking at the same time. Not bad for a couple hours of work. Now... Time to put that dash back in, change all the exhaust manifold gaskets, put in my 10mm phenolic spacers and find other things I can break. Good times. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
    2 points
  4. I bought kelfords beehive springs, larger tappets, their valves and cams. Put these in my car and it didn't make a huge difference to power levels around extra 10wkw. I did have reprofiled cams before though through Franklin so didn't expect too much. Getting the larger tappets In which hold the springs in on the valves is a bloody hard job, they are around 50% bigger than th OEM part. I've built my own heads a number of times now and these are way harder to assemble but are worth it as they are far better at holding the valve, spring etc in place, reccomend them. I line bored my crank too and has extra dowels In there to help hold it together.
    2 points
  5. those gen 1 rav4's will soon be collectable like a j40 landcruiser 😄
    1 point
  6. Pop a vacuum line off the intake manifold and spray something that goes bang in there while cranking it. Brake cleaner works, if it fires and coughs then you have confirmed its fuel issue. If not then you can look more spark / electrical issues? Lots of good ideas here haha i'm keen to find out what it was in the end 😀 I wouldn't be surprised if the injectors are just seized
    1 point
  7. I did dream about a 1st gen AWD 2dr Rav4 Bosokued out, like lowered flares & sweet Streeet shark fins or longchamps etc... or Hotwires
    1 point
  8. Ahh yeah I get ya now. Definitely something blocked in front of the injectors then. Try undo some clamps on the supply side fuel hoses to see at what point you don't get flow.
    1 point
  9. nah, 1st gen rvr is not a cut-down evo, go back a generation to a mix of chopped chariot chassis and galant vr4 drive train. go for a forester or 1st gen rav4 with 3s-ge beams or 2nd gen rav4
    1 point
  10. Old fuel out (about 20L Mower 91 in milk Bottle for comparison and Fresh 98 I put 10L in for comparison Still no go, may need to bleed injectors somehow? / from Filter on? not getting any return flow from the other two pipes little or big
    1 point
  11. Later model gf/GC say v3 onwards I think came as a trim LEVEL SRX - pretty much a warm version of the impreza, not a hot version - no turbo but highest spec NA. Pretty sure in Japan buyers were given a lot of optional extras at the dealerships, hence different stickers side skirts badging etc.
    1 point
  12. Dunno on an old foz but it'll be one of the three going to the firewall. Try find the reg wherever that is too. Yea if crank/cam signal is tucked it won't even try spark. Dunno on injectors, crank it over and then check the spark plugs to see if they're wet maybe? That's how I'd do an initial check. Options after that get expensive or very messy
    1 point
  13. What have you done to confirm you have spark and fuel? Maybe try whip the return fuel line off and get the fuel pump to run to make sure nothing is blocking fuel flow. Have you checked spark at each plug yet? Something super annoying and electrical makes more sense from your description of it's hard last few years haha.
    1 point
  14. ok those are weird (& I updated thread with your images too) are they magnetic? can you trace what ever is attached behind them? yeha the up & down sticker might be a clue? & the other might take over the traction control?
    1 point


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