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It has been a few years.... I see earlier in this chat that the Queenstown/Wanaka area was a big question mark for 98 but they now have it at Wanaka at the new BP just before the township. I didn't see it in Queenstown. I visited both for the airshow. Currently sitting at $3.32 before 6c loyalty card discount. Cromwell reports having it as well on the website. Wanaka does not, but I gave them a call before I travelled down and filled up there twice. I also saw two NPDs in Cromwell and Frankton with 100+ Octane Greymouth also has 98 at their Mobil as well as their BP.

Yea okay that's a good thought. The Clips are MOST DEFINITELY still inside the diff. Looking through one axle hole I can see all the way through to the other side and there is definitely a clip on each side. They are still seated in their grooves.

Hi Dunno whether you are still updating the SVX registry which I just found today? Seems to date from 2019.... I have a red/black SVX (NZ new, 1993) which I've owned since 2005. Happy to provide details if you have a format you could send, or something? How do you beat the max total size of 200kb for photos? That's kinda tiny. Maybe email me or otherwise offline? Earlier I had a Jap import SVX (metallic graphite colour) around 1999 which I sold after about a year to some guy who had no idea about them - it was WW6616 I recall.

Just thought I'd let you guys know that I have been in touch with 4 Subaru dealer technicians, two qualified mechanics and the Subaru tuning specialist to tunes my car. I have got a variety of different responses, the mechanics think the clips should NOT be left in the diff...the dealership technicians have contradicting opinions, some say they should be left in the diff, some say they shouldn't and one guy reckoned there shouldn't be any at all!?. The Subaru specialist was absolutely adament that the clips are supposed to be left in there (on a R180) and he had many colourful things to say about the dealership technicians as he thinks they should know better. Another thing I learnt is that the front axles ALWAYS has clips that come out the "normal" traditional way. My research told me that there are varying different varieties of Subaru diffs that use both methods (clips staying in is a bit rare and niche though I believe), therefore I decided that because they were both left in the diff it is more likely to be by design than by something going wrong....and the tuning workshop guy really convinced me as he deals with the older performance Subarus opposed to the dealership mostly doing new stuff.....and the qualified mechanics wouldn't be super familiar with niche Subaru things in particular. So I popped them back in with a tap of the heavy hammer....applied some pressure with a prybar to confirm they were locked in....they were......then I pulled them out and looked at the circlips to make sure they were still in the same position as I first saw them and hadn't sheared off or broken......I put them back in and repeated about 3 times until I felt comfortable about them. I haven't put oil back in or driven it yet ....but if anything goes wrong I'll be sure to post about it here! Also when I pryed to make sure they were locked in I noticed there was a bit of side to side play in axel when applying pressure to confirm the axles were locked into the diff.....probably about 2 or 3mm of movement? Is this normal? It made me a bit uneasy as I don't understand how it can have play if the circlips have locked it into the grooves? None the less the axles required quite a lot of pressure to pop them out so I assume they are locked in properly? Has anyone got an opinion about this? many thanks to all..... I'll be sure to let you know when I have a whining rear end and grey pastey, sparkly diff oil 😅

It should be pretty obvious by the depth of the groove. A deep groove on the axle stub will probably mean a circlip is supposed to be present. A shallow groove probably means the circlip is inside the diff. You can also put your finger in the diff and see if you can feel the circlip... should be easy enough.

Hi all. Doing a cambelt and wpump change tomorrow, found some old notes of mine that I just wanted to confirm with others that they are correct before I write them in my new "Subaru cheat book" of torque specs😀. Can anyone help confirm that these torque specs for the EJ20Y (I assume all EJ's) are correct! Large cambelt idlers including the hydraulic tensioner - 39Nm The singular small cambelt idler - 25Nm waterpump - 12Nm, starting at the 2 O' clock bolt and moving clockwise. Do two 12Nm passes all the way around the six bolts. Thermostat housing - 12Nm main crank pulley (Harmonic balancer) - 44Nm followed by 45° (should equal approximately 130Nm) I also add a small amount of Loctite Blue to all idlers and the tensioners....what are your opinions about the Loctite Blue? Does anyone oppose my torque specs? many thanks everyone! 😀

Small update. Had it within Winger Greenlane to see if any memory initialisation or frimware updates might do the trick. No joy, both failed. I confirmed the memory initialisation myself. Just hangs and doesn't really execute. Options seem to be: a) take it out and goes to Wellington for an attempted repair. I presume there is a specialised shop there. Via google aslautomedia.com.au in Australia seems to offer a repair. b) currently hunting for a second hand unit c) factory replacment. Lets just say I'm probably better investing in a new car .. If b) doesn't come through I'll explore a). Hunting around at aftermarket units. Apart from the idoing most seem to be challenged to hook into the Harmon Kardon speak system. Apparently the rear amp uses the CanBus for controls, and idoing atleast offers an adapter.