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It is my pleasure, on behalf of the committee to announce the return of MegaMeet! (much applause and fanfare) Not only will 2017 bring back MegaMeet, but it will double as ClubSUB's 20th birthday. we have decided to head back to the location of arguably one of the best MegaMeets we ever had. So without futher ado... ClubSUB invites you to Taupo for the weekend of April 22nd and 23rd. the exact time table is yet to be confirmed, but expect Saturday to be a fun Amazing race style rally, and a social evening Saturday night, then a trackday Sunday at Taupo's Bruce Mclaren Motorsport Park... Trackday Entry - $150 per car/driver amazing race/rally - $20 per person ENTER HERE Check out the Facebook Event HERE And did I mention we have prizes to give away all weekend as well? so what are you waiting for? How a Trackday runs: 8.00am Gates Open 8.45am to 9.30 am Documentation: Bring your Licence & the Indemnity form that Playday on Track emailed you a few days before the event. 9.40am Drivers briefing (All drivers & passengers must attend) 9.55am Cars on track for Familiarisation laps (low speed, passengers allowed, helmets not required). 10.10am First group of cars on the track 4.30pm All cars must be off the track People entered and paid for the track include Simo777 MrMacKenzie Shadywrx Adb318 056 Andy_Mac Morris1 SILNCR singularity Phatrex Onlinedan calebwrx 95SVX RexAddict 94 Leone Dairusire A_Tiny_Chipmunk THUNDA chatura85 Nick BC5 boyracer693 nztintin Fastfour

This is just a general heads up to all who may come on the forums - Remember that what is said online here is not private info, anyone - and that means anyone - can read it. This includes the warranty advisers from Subaru, the NZ police, Insurance Assessors, people of that ilk who you may not want to know certain things you may have done. Allegedly. If you post on here about the mods you put on, then removed to claim the gearbox you blew up, or the wall you hit at hampton downs - they do look on here, especially if you have a sticker on the car saying "I heart this website". Double points if you put up photos or videos with your number plate visible. It's not an old wives tale - there are members on here who have seen their post history brought up in court proceedings, I personally know folks who have had warranties voided after photos emerged of cars at track days - and know of at least one person who's been double hit with a declined insurance claim followed by insurance fraud case for an accident claimed while on the racetrack Don't be dumb

Shelly Bay Sprint yesterday. Only managed 10th place unfortunately. I haven't entered this event for 10 years and it's very technical with an unforgiving bite if you make a mistake. And I had my daughter on board and her mother would have killed me if I landed in the rocks below. That's all my excuses. Plus only 1 second separating 10th and 5th

Nuuuu shoooooz

Built a Snowman on my front yard with Subaru Front Axles for arms & CV balls for eyes

I don't mean to be a cock but can't help it... Drifting in front of a cop is not what I'd call driving fairly responsibly Number of tickets incurred does not translate to skill level

Hi Guys, as you are aware Subirex Automotive is one of the sponsors for the up coming Mega Meet in April. We will now be running a special promo exclusive only to ClubSub members for April only. We are offering a 50% discount from retail on labour for the Mega Meet. This will start from 1st April until the end of the month. I will personally be working on the members cars to make sure its up to standards Appointments necessary as we have to maintain the correct workflow in the shop. so flick me an email or call to make a booking.

This might be useful and I figured best to get it online before I go and accidentally wipe it https://ufile.io/9547e <-- ECU definition for ECUflash. I've forgotten the ins and outs of it, but you need to replace what it tries to open the legacy stock rom with, with this https://ufile.io/caf54 <-- The last tune I loaded onto my wagon, some emphasis on off-throttle pops and bangs with this one. It's pretty aggressive and my car had FMIC, 2.5" downpipes and silicone intake pipe - your mileage may vary as those things do make a marked difference to how much it wants to grenade. That said - it still runs less timing on boost than the stock rom does https://ufile.io/90b75 <-- A pretty safe tune for 95% of the cars out there, loading this on will result in the VOD being effectively gone, ping gone on gull or BP 98, and vastly improved mileage. I think it's pretty safe on 95 as well from memory but please see above I've got a dozen other variations if anyone wants them, still have stock flashes off auto and manual GTB's and I think I have an S204 (202? whatever the sti B4 is) rom renamed something stupid which was not really any great improvement other than more revs and boost bro I sold reflashed ECU's to a few in various states of modification who all came back with glowing feedback, it is a legit "best bang for the buck" thing you can do to these cars Also I'm not dead, this is just the first time I've been on my car-S*** laptop for several months (ha) - currently driving a POS cedia turbo while saving for something worthwhile

So we have put new turbo on and didn't quite crack 500wkw as ran out of fuel pumps. Have designed a new setup of headers and mounting turbo in front of cam covers with this coming on to full boost at 3800rpm ish. Absolutely mental when it hits boost as torque skyrockers. Gotasuby - 479.76wkwModel: 2002 V7 STI GDBDisplacement: 2.35lMods: S366 Turbo, ID1700@55psi base. ported heads, cams, fmic, 3.5" exhaust, DW300 FP, G4+, front mounted turbo. Fuel: E75Tuner: Me/SAS 

Umm, on a scale of one to really, really stolen, how stolen is the car you've bought?

So I have been giving some thought over the weekend to why stock location turbos on Subarus always deliver relatively mediocre results. Why is it that turbos that routinely deliver 300wkw+ when installed in a rotated/twisted setup (i.e. GT/GTX3071R) get more like 250-260wkw when installed in the stock location? I believe the answer is all in the turbine housing. In order to retain "stock" fitment, the turbo cannot alter the relationship between the location of the uppipe flange and downpipe flange. This in turn forces the position of the turbine wheel; this is also forced by the location of the turbo's inlet having to go under the intake manifold. Because these locations are fixed, there is a hard limit on the size of the volute (the channel the exhaust gas takes through the turbine housing), which also limits the size of the turbine wheel. Furthermore, if you increase the size of the turbine wheel you take up space that is needed for the volute, so you just shoot yourself in the foot - either you have a big, high-flowing turbine wheel and feed it with a straw, or you open up the volute and then choke it at the turbine. This gets a little bit disguised by manufacturers claiming, for example, that their stock location GTX3071R has a 0.84AR turbine housing, but this is simply a ratio of two sections of the volute, it has nothing to do with the actual size of the housing. I guarantee you a bog standard Garrett T3 0.84AR housing for that turbo has a way, way larger cross-section. Twin-scroll does slightly resolve this, depending on the turbo, as you can have two volutes side-by-side and thus gain considerably more area. When you choke the exhaust flow you end up with high pre-turbine exhaust backpressure; I have a theory about this causing exhaust reversion at certain boost/EBP levels where the exhaust valve spring pressure isn't high enough to completely close the valve, causing knock and crap power. EDIT: Side note on why US cars seem to do better on stock location: completely aside from how half their dynos are just complete works of fiction, I believe that a lot of the US "stock location" turbos just completely ruin the position of the downpipe; something we can't do because of steering/brakes components in that area, and then they just don't talk about how none of the downpipe brackets line up any more and the midpipe fitment is a bit S***. I tried to install a US-spec "stock location" turbo once and the fitment was utterly S***. Feel free to tell me I'm dumb

Hey Conducks.. you have got the cash to splash and an obvious desire to drive fast .. Have you ever had a shot on the track.. I am recommending you give it a go.. Karting is a great introduction to motorsport.. You will learn race craft,setup,organisation and have a real driving experience.. Then I would suggest a formula ford as the next step in your racing career.. I know its fun to blast around the streets in your hotrod but its not going to give you any personal growth.. Get out with a pack of other drivers giving it heaps and see how good you really are.. Doing crazy stuff on public roads isn't going to win you any prizes.. From my experience after spending a great day racing in a controlled environment the last thing you will do on the way home is bust the speed limit.. Do it properly man..

Few suggestions for prepping a Subaru, some of you may see this as overkill, but I have probably killed more Subaru's than most... Oil – bring some spare, you must check it after every session on the track. If you don’t do this, you are asking to run a bearing… Seals – check your rocker cover gaskets are healthy. And if you are in any doubt about any other seal on your engine, check/replace it, as driving moderately fast around a track will stress it. Breather hoses, make sure they are all healthy and firmly clamped down, if they fail, hot oil = fire generally in a Subaru. Turbo oil feed, make sure it is well secured (with the factory mounts) as if it moves around the factory steel line will snap and leak oil = fire. Same goes for the mounts holding the turbo itself, again if the turbo moves, it will f*ck either the up pipe or the turbo oil feed. Check your vacuum hoses are well connected and clamped down, particularly wastegate hose, as if that comes off you won’t have fun, you could potentially have no boost, or all the boost in the world… Exhaust gaskets, make sure your exhaust manifold gaskets (particularly the one going from manifold to up pipe), are healthy, if they leak you lose power, and possibly can melt things. Same goes for your up pipe. Radiator/cooling system, fresh fluid and if you have any doubts about its ability to keep the car cool, get it pressure tested. Leaking cooling system = blown head gasket = S*** day at the track. Baffle the sump if you think you can drive fast. You may well not actually need it, but if you can afford it, it’s a good safety feature. However it won’t save you if you don’t keep an eye on the oil levels. Fit good tyres, Linglongs are fun if you are going to back it into corners, but if you aren’t a hero, then fit good tyres and enjoy going round the track sorta fast. Bear in mind with road tyres you need to monitor pressures/temp/wear during the day if possible. If you start wearing them, rotate them around. Semi’s, be even more careful, especially with pressure as they can overheat so damned easily! Check your brakes during the day, not a bad idea half way through the day (ie at lunch) to pull front wheels off and check that there is still plenty of meat left on the pads. If you have been hard on brakes, give them a bleed too. Playday will no doubt warn you, but if you feel your brakes go funny/off, stop using them, cruise back to the pits and work out what’s wrong. Generally it’s either the pads are cooked/melted, or you have boiled the fluid. Either one will end up with a Subaru shaped dent in a wall if you don’t do something about it… But my biggest tip, get in the passenger seat of someone who knows how to drive, it's an awesome way to see how other people do it differently, sometimes you will learn how they are fast, sometimes you will learn where you are better. But you are pretty much guaranteed to learn something regardless. Of course if you are in a road car, don't go trying to emulate them, you may find your car doesn't do things quite the same!

If I get one lyk I'll track the ra-r

These puppies arrived today, was a pleasant surprise to find STI braided lines as a bonus

Heres some completed pics so you can figure out the rest. Pics with a Rev D manifold and different piping. I prefer this manifold as its like a Spec C Manifold where it doesnt have TGVs and the plenum is a better shape and size imo.

Was driving over to Eketehuna yesterday and between the track and Pahiatua i spotted a black legacy approaching from behind at speed. I was doing 110 and the bh Gt passed me as if i was a rolling chicane. So i speed up a little just to see how fast he was going and followed for a couple of minutes at 130ish. I then backed off and he disappered into the distance. After another few ks the legacy appeared to be slowing and i caught up again. Approaching a right hand uphill corner I noticed a huge cloud of white/blue smoke covering the road. I had to slow right down to see through the cloud and 100 meters up the road was the legacy idling away with smoke billowing from the exhaust. Some one will be looking for a new turbo. And thats my sharn...

Lots of rumbling on @ToomTom and @Niran's garage threads, about people's expectations and experiences with performance workshops. I feel like it's a conversation worth having, because clearly we all have somewhat different levels of expectation about what we'll get when we take our car to a specialist workshop. And I have some grumpy rants to have about it as well. Keep it constructive, I guess. My 2c: On the one hand, virtually every modified car is different. There will be slight variations from build to build that introduce unique differences that have to be allowed for when you setup/tune the car. On the other hand, these are "experts" and they usually charge like a wounded bull, so the service should be premium. Because of these variations in cars, things sometimes go wrong, or don't work as well as expected. So my number one rule for a workshop: communicate. Tell the customer what's going on. And for the love of all things Subaru, have your ducks in a row when you talk to them. Don't give them some wishy washy bullshit with 9 different things that you think it might be. You're professionals, damn it, with a workshop full of fancy diagnostic gear (including, probably, a dyno), so come and tell me what the issue is. Rule number two: Unless the customer is like "I'm coming to get the car", don't push it out the workshop door if it's running like a bag of balls. Generally people spend like 6 months or more building the car, a couple more days for you to iron out some little issues is nothing; the customer might be a little bit disappointed but if you follow rule #1 and have a concrete conversation about why you need the car longer they will be understanding. If you hang on to the car but fail at #1 you look incompetent. And so help me, if you have more than one car with the same issue, and you fix it on one car and don't fix it on the other, and then tell the owner of the second car that it's the same issue as another car that you already knew about but you didn't fix it on their car, you look incompetent. I've taken a car to get tuned, it had issues, the tuner nailed it down to a single factor, laid out my options, we made a decision on it, got it sorted. Easy. Seriously, I feel like I have had some sort of blessed experience with tuning. Drive/trailer the car in, leave it for a couple of days, drive it out.

Thought I'd better post a pic of my latest family member, had it a wee while now to be honest but kept pretty quiet about it.. NZ new, second owner and only 77 thou k's now, rust proofed when new so very very tidy, everything works including air ride, digital dash and not a single squeak or rattle while driving. Got a few reliability plans for the EA82T to keep it alive forever (under bonnet air/water intercooler and stainless exhaust plus a few other tricks learnt over the years), but keeping it as standard as possible will be the mantra throughout. Bit of a dream car for me to be honest, i even had the Tamiya model of this exact car/colour/interior as a kid!. Joins my Brumby as a permanent member of the family along with the everyday drivers.

300+ club stickers on the 3/4 window.

While I disagree with the blanket - 25 yr - rule. It serves it's purpose because that's exactly it. Younger people do take more risks (see doing dumb stuff) than older people. Albeit I believe it should be down to accredited driving skills and certificates along with driving history, rather than blanket 25 yr rule. @Conducks Please don't take this as a telling off. It's from one clubsub enthusiast to another, trying to give you advice. Please heed it. While I can appreciate your enthusiasm for your car, and love the fact we've actually got someone in here who posts regularly that has one of the newer gen cars, you need to stop posting about doing dumb sh!t on the streets. That's coming from us as admin's of Clubsub. We understand that as a younger person (I'm 24), that sometimes you may see something as harmless, however it'll pull yourself and possibly the club into disrepute. I for example got absolutely thrashed and told off by @Fastfour rightfully so, for posting a video of a friend (actually wasn't myself) going rather fast and generally being a bit reckless on the road. Admitting that you've done something online in conjunction with a court order for details of said person can be used in court, your car can be taken and a conviction / fine / loss of license etc can occur (this is to the best of my knowledge) because of this. You seem a good kid at heart, done some silly things, just like I have, and a bit miss-guided. We're trying to guide you here to not make the mistakes we made.

Accelerator Cable broke on my Avenger coming over Saddle road, managed to bodge it up & carry on with spare parts and Zip ties

Christmas time when you are a Subaru family

Yesterday; I picked up this gorgeous creature; -You asked @Dairusire and here you are Also, facebook image links automatically embed, that's new. cool though

So it's been a while. This is a v7 sti standard crste motor with second hand standard heads off a v7 sti. Supporting fuel system and a link ecu. Fmic and bolt on twin scroll blouch 3.0xt-r turbo. We wanted 400hp with bolt on turbo on pump gas. This is I think the limit of what is achieveable on a bolt on turbo. It is at 26psi to achieve it.

One of the most popular threads so smashing this in here. Many of you will be finishing up work and getting ready to kick back and spend time with friends and family. Remember to take it easy out there on the roads team, think twice when you are stuck behind a camper and eager to bring that spoolie boi online to pull a savage overtake. Its better to arrive late than dead on time. sit back, take a couple breaths and enjoy the ride and look out for one another. Wishing you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Did stage 1 of the big legacy clean today. Hasn’t had a proper clean for about 1 year as I was living in Wellington CBD and they have nothing decent in welly to wash cars. Love my snow foam Looks like I killed something with my wheels [emoji23]

These are pretty good to avoid speeding tickets

Not today, but Sunday... HVMC autox, placed 3rd out of a large field of 53 My fastest run for the day

Howdy team, Exciting news! MegaMeet '18 and ClubSUB 21st Birthday Supported by @Subirex Automotive Lock in your calendar May 12th and 13th. Location - Manawatu May 12th Lunch at Tui HQ, $15 per person, or Subscribed members will get this for $0.10... no thats not a typo, Subscribed members will get a sweet as Tui HQ Build your own BBQ burger lunch for 10 cents! After lunch there will be a cruise back into Palmy, where we will enjoy a spot of competitive Karting! we have 35 spots available at $35 per person, or $20 for subscribed members... We will likely head out for some dinner at a yet to be determined location. May 13th We have teamed up with our friends at Playday on Track again for a full track day at Manfield motorsport Park. $150 per car, or Subscribed members $130. SO, as you can see, for ClubSUB's 21st birthday, we are saying thanks to the members who have kep't us ticking along with massive discounts across the board. Plus we will have a bunch of prizes and giveways all over the place! now would be a good time to subscribe eh! How do we enter? how do we pay? We have put everything up on the CS Store, and made it easy for you to pay with your credit card via out Paypal link. http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/store/category/7-megameet-2018/ Get into it team! any questions? Joker edit : for you Facebook Fiends get in and hit GOING to these events & share them around the Subaru Communities!

@IZichard IMG_7949 by Tim Bowman, on Flickr IMG_7982 by Tim Bowman, on Flickr IMG_7918 by Tim Bowman, on Flickr IMG_7570 by Tim Bowman, on Flickr

Did something to my car yesterday.... Thanks @JGM for the snaps and @A_J_T for the guidance on how much I should whack my guards with a hammer

Off the top of my head... @JGM Lowered silver outback @ADIKT Lowered black outback @1randomkiwi silver BE 3.0 @A_J_T Silver BE sedan, think it's a GT and her name is ruby. @sobanoodle Black BL9, which at some stage will have every available after market exhaust and suspension/handling component fitted to it. @delta 3.0 Outback (can't remember colour), has/will soon have a @V7STI1992 white BP 3.0R wagon with some sweet recaro seats. @Chase Black (?) BP GT wagon with tein springs. @Andy_Mac Blue BP GTB wagon with a sweet N7 dash isntall. @Invisible everyone knows his car.... @thewabbit1 white BH GTB wagon @whitebait19 white (?) BH lancaster wagon. @Teufel a BP 3.0R of some description @killervq30de a BP GTB, I think? no idea whether wagon or sedan... And @Kiwi_Fozze and @McDoof owned 3.0R legacies, but that was before my time.... And @Subru will own a turbo legacy eventually, he just doesn't know it yet.... There will be plenty more...these are just people who post regularly or have/had a 3.0R...I will have missed quite a few recent additions I think. Fixed it for you

Drove it and didn't use any oil.

Took my car in for its lvta cert inspection today. The certifier was happy with everything and it passed, just need to do some paper work and wait for the plate to turn up. I’m so happy after 5 months of trying to get it looked at!

Does your car makes nasty scraping sound when you wind down the windows, or maybe you've got scratches down your windows already? The issue is caused by the buffers the window is secured by getting worn and full of ingrained dirt like so; You'll need; * a Subaru with frameless windows (any will work mostly the same way, but this guide is for BP/BL Legacies) * socket set (mainly a 10mm) * medium JIS/Philips screwdriver * small flat head * old toothbrush * graphite powder (i got mine from repco years ago, but you can also get it from Mitre10) Step 1; First start by putting the window down. Once you've removed the door card you wont be able to without having to replug it, and thats a pain you don't need to bother with. Remove the door card, you'll have 3 screws, one behind a panel behind the chrome door handle, and two behind the door pull trim. For the one behind the chrome door handle, first hold the handle open and insert the flat head in the small opening at the top of the panel behind the handle. Try to push down to flex the panel and it should pop out. The door pull trim is a pain to remove. It is probably the hardest part of this whole thing. You'll need to pull the top of the handle towards you and kinda twist it in the direction of the dashboard. (if looking down at the handle on the drives side twist Counter-clockwise, and for the passenger side twist Clockwise Then there are many clips, lift the card up and clear of the door, and disconnect a couple of connectors. To disconnect the chrome door handle, open the hatch, unclip the two actuator cables (the top one for the lock, the bottom for the handle) from the housing and rotate the cable so the ball at the end can be removed from the handle Step 2; You'll have two metal backed buffers (green) on the inside of the window that are held in by one 10mm bolt, and two plastic backed buffers (blue) clipped on the outside of the window that you remove by pulling both sides in to unclip it. If you have the Mcintosh headunit make sure you don't drop them as the door is covered in sound deadening and will be a pain to reattach neatly. Step 3; Restore the buffers. I used a flat head screw driver to lightly pull up the pile, being careful not to damage the pile or the backing material. Once there is nothing left flattened get a old toothbrush and carefully brush it to remove the dirt. You can try wetting it, but i've found that just causes it all to clump together. Before; After; Once it looks clean you should add some graphite powder to the buffer to aid as a lubricant (you don't want something wet like silicon as it'll leave a trail on the window, and also hold dirt and make it fail again all the sooner. Step 4; Reinstall!! When you removed the inner buffers it should of left some witness marks to where it was installed at the factory. Try and put them back where they were and it should hold the window nice and secure. Otherwise reassembly is the reverse as removal. Once its back together make sure the window will go up and down and the door will shut and you should be done.

Couple more items turned up today on the courier. Brand new Damd D-shaped wheel from @cyruslow And some OBD2 readers, hoping at least one plays nice with the EMTron so I can get some digital gauges back on the tablet. If they don't work then I'll be going to a Windows based setup instead. Been eying up a Latte Panda Alpha/Delta but they're rather expensive for what it'll end up doing.

Clean sheeted the Type RA. She is now road legal for the first time in just over two years Also bought rego. Because that’s needed and yeah lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh boy have I got a deal for you. Have you heard of the SuperCooler? If if you call now, we’ll throw in a free exhaust Venturi!! but wait there’s more! With lots of extensive testing on a virtually stock legacy being thrown around Puke, we definitely know this is worth it!!1one!1 Yours for only 10 easy payments of $99.99 as well as your liver and first born! Call now! (If you don’t understand your too young in CS time) In the past people have run the WTAC pump from the RS with a seperate header tank for the turbo and have dropped 10 degrees on the track, pretty sure it was Funky/Sl8r that did it years ago.

Don't try and increase the power... you have a 1.5 with no turbo, so it's going to be very hard to increase the power. I personally would not spend any money on it... just drive it the way it is and enjoy it.

After 2 years without a subie finally back in a leggy. Love the rumble

Hillclimb in Hawkes Bay on Saturday.

Several years ago I acted as the sweeper car that went though at the end of each stage in the Targa Rally. Plenty of experienced drivers went off the road at speeds far less than 200km/h. They were okay due to lower speeds or the fact they had a roll cage and helmet etc. Most were caught out by totally unexpected hazards on the road such as oil spill, wild animal etc. And they had far more driving experience than you - by a country mile. Do yourself a favour and reign in your perecived powers of invincibility before it is too late. You have the rest of your life to live. I may think you're a knob, but doesn't mean I wish you ill will...

inspired by the people on club sub and reading the suby docs i figured DIY this weekend and share the notes before forgetting. mine is the face-lift 07 auto trans H6 3.0R with engine push start button. not all loom wiring is pre made for these model years. The purpose here is to complete the cruise control system by installing cruise buttons and parts to supply a brake switch signal to ECU pin B20. This is my write up, don’t do anything to stuff up your vehicle or anyone's safety and if you are not sure stop. steps are in sequence each dependent on the previous. 1. Have the correct service manual for your vehicle @ http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/ or https://techinfo.subaru.com. Print and read the relevant pages in the subaru service manual because there is important information and safety info in the 5,000+ page service manual that is not detailed here. 2. Most of these steps required the battery to be disconnected. 3. Check cruise and set lights are available on your dashboard, even if they are never lit. We only noticed ours when the sun was right behind us. 4. Check cruise is supported by the ECU. I used FreeSSM with a cheap vagcom cable and the engine diagnostics page shows integrated cruise control on the left hand side of the window. Not all models support cruise apparently higher spec models are more likely to 5. Check you have a 2 pin brake light switch and there is not a 4 pin loom plug tucked away in the loom near your brake light switch. if there is you are lucky and subaru have saved you a heap of time, just replace the switch with a 4 pin and ignore all of the new wiring steps. 6. Use the service manual to identify and check the ECU under the front passenger foot well carpet that ; 1. C25 (clutch pedal pin) is wired green yellow and tied 12v with ignition on (for auto transmission models), subaru included this wiring for us 2. note/ you could probably easily pick up the ignition 12v from elsewhere if you wanted to but i wanted to test C25 was working per the wiring diagram. 3. B20 (brake switch) is not wired. Subaru didn’t include this for us as they did for some previous model years. 7. Check which cruise controls are required. Similar legacy/outbacks to mine have steering wheel cruise control 8. Go to the wreckers and pick up; 1. Steering wheel cruise control buttons 2. 4 pin stop light & brake switch 3. 4 pin stop light & brake loom connector with some wiring 4. ECU plug with 5cm+ wires attached (computer under passenger footwell). This is so we can take a pin out to use on B20 9. not familiar with these components? practise removing ECU pins and also the connectors from the brake switch loom connector as this skills will be required later on. I didn't this before so asked for help @ https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/48623/how-to-remove-pin-from-subaru-ecu-plug 10. Install steering wheel buttons which required removing the wheel to unscrew the buttons panels from the rear side. My SW buttons were stereo controls on the left and a blank plate on the right. Put it back together now the cruise dash light is shown during lamp test when the ignition is turned on. The set button on the steering wheel won’t do anything. May get a DTC whilst driving when the computer realises the other circuits are not ready. 11. now need to wire the normally closed contact on the 4 pin brake switch to feed ECU pin B20. I took the ignition power from C25 (spliced a couple inches back from the ECU plug) up behind the foot well, above the stereo and over to the brake switch location. The return came back along the same path to the ecu’s pin B20. This was time consuming because removed most of the front trim panels to follow existing loom paths. Used solder and heat shrink on all splices/joins and a PPS cable sleeve. Don’t work on ECU cables with their plugs connected to the brain. At first I couldn’t get the new ecu pin into B20 but gently did it to click in with the crimped side facing downward. 12. Replace 2 pin brake switch loom connector with the 4 pin. Used a small flat jewelers screwdriver to pop out the white/blue and brown/white wires from the new 4 pin loom connector as loom already had those. Popped out same colour wires from the 2 pin and moved them over to the four pin. Connected in the new cables from previous step. See pix above from @sobanoodle that yellow & green yellow wires are the new ones. Your green (or equivalent) goes from pin 1 on the connector to ECU B20 and your green/yellow from pin 4 on the connector to the ECU C25 splice. 13. Replace 2 pin brake switch with the 4 pin brake switch using a 12 mm spanner and check it is in the correct position. I used a multi meter to check the contacts changed state when the brake pedal was depressed even slightly (had to adjust the switch position, don't wanna be rear ended with no brake lights). It was good to test from the ECU side as well to check the new circuit is working end to end. 14. Put back enough of the panels and connectors to have the car driveable and test the engine starts with no warning lights. 15. didn’t do anything else to enable cruise because the computer detected all of the signals were in place. it automatically enabled and made the cruise available 16. go drive to test the new cruise control, it worked - the cruise function and dash lights operate nicely If I did this over would probably use another source of ignition 12V rather than have to splice the C25 wire. anyways done now and uses same circuit, fuses and pins described in the service manual for the factory cruise.

I can see your STi ending up in the car crimes thread at this rate

Here's my WRX a month ago, when the sun was still visiting:

Just drive it like you don't care about it, don't think about the consequences and you will be fine. An EJ20R TT in 3rd/4th gear is generally very close to as fast as an STI. I know when I was young and naughty I definitely surprised a few STI and EVO owners. But really the best feature of the TT wagon is it's ability to go sideways. They are very loose cars if you drive them hard enough on road tyres. Ohh and related topic, I have a BH5 as my tow car, and ended up using it as a safety car on Targa last year, 5 min gap and I still managed to catch some of the Targa Tour cars in some stages... Although to be fair that car does have 4 pots on it, as I had some fire issues with the stock brakes.