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Showing content with the highest reputation since 28/03/23 in Posts

  1. i didn’t do anything myself but I did receive some photos of turbo installed on the mock engine in car, down pipe next. Things getting more exciting, hopefully not long to go now.
    6 points
  2. I'm not ashamed to admit that I bought one of the knockoff turbo blankets off AliExpress last year. Smoked a bit to start off with but hasn't caught fire or anything yet. The only negative is that it doesn't cover the inlet to the turbo very well. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33000085676.html I also bought some snazzy Subaru logo valve caps too
    4 points
  3. Q1. No, no gains, if anything you will slightly _lose_ as the aftermarket rods and pistons are potentially heavier, less well balanced, and not quite as good a fit as OEM. Assuming identical geometry, i.e. not gaining/losing compression. Stock turb and intercooler are never going to push the limits of even the stock internals if everything else is happy. Q2. I wouldn't bother just doing one. Either it's a forged build or it isn't. As to whether you would replace the pistons.... if you buy used pistons, you have no idea of their history. If you buy new pistons they're going to cost you about $500 for a set for stockies, is it worth it? I'd say probably not. Q4. The only factory internals I'd consider an "upgrade" are V7 STI EJ207 pistons and rods, and they're >$2000 for the pistons and around $800 for a set of rods, at which point you may as well just go aftermarket. Q5. Head gaskets, OEM. Rebuild kit in terms of bearings? YMMV. OEM are probably going to be the most reliable at stock power levels but might cost a metric assload. Q6. Yes, it's fine. Honestly unless #racecar where you have specific oil pressure needs, dicking about with the oil pump seems to lead to more problems than it's worth. Q7. As long as you weren't way out I'd probably nana it to the tuner, especially if you had slightly dropped compression rather than adding it. As long as you were comfortable it was driving well enough to make that trip safely. Anything turbo is kinda fundamentally variable compression anyway because the actual resultant cylinder pressure could be just about anything. With that out of the way.... I wouldn't bother with a rebuild to factory spec. A better option, IMO, is to just keep driving it on the assumption it will blow up at some stage, and in the meantime get another block and start building that one up properly (forged etc). Then when yours finally gives up the ghost, you have the option of throwing in a bigger turbo or something and making a bunch of power.
    3 points
  4. The body is already an 01 WRX so should be adequate for cert purposes other than hoops probably
    3 points
  5. cheers guys my rocker cover gasket was a relative breeze For anyone with a big engine say ej254 or ez30 I recommend this Koken quick spinner part no 2756 I got this from Amazon along with other Koken tools I used on this, love my 72 tooth 150mm flex head 3/8” ratchet! They’re priced pretty well and they’re quality. I jacked the engine up off the sump, all three engine mounts have to be loosened up. I found that the easiest way to get your engine to line back up with the mounts is do the top one first, use a screwdriver or chisel to pry it in place. Use lube and a gentle hammer if the bolt needs a bit of help getting in. but be smart! Don’t be like me and jack the sump up with cardboard. Get a bit of wood! I dented my sump. It doesn’t leak, is covered by the under tray, and is getting sold soon, so all good!
    3 points
  6. Purchased a set of the optional STI BBS forged wheels to remedy one of the few I don’t like about the car. Also a bonus is less unsprung weight (apparently they are around 3kg lighter/wheel). **Images from the internet Will go from To
    3 points
  7. That or failing some form of quality control. I've purchased a few things as tests that look identical as other ones I've already had besides casting damage etc
    3 points
  8. Another revival with some pics from last year while i was hunting for forum bugs. Some updates since photo's taken as have a black plate now after seeing a mates one and couldn't resist as well as some ad08r's.
    3 points
  9. OK, so i needed to have both sets of green plugs connected. The set in the drivers A Pillar and the set in the passenger foot well that were tucked in under the ecu bracket under the carpet. I downloaded the image and had to make my own def file in rom raider to be able to read it. Thanks for the pointers on where the plugs are.
    3 points
  10. The green test mode / flash connector will be on the left side footwell 'JDM Passenger footwell.' When connected and you turn the ignition on, you will hear the fans and solenoid cycling. This is how you know you have the correct plugs connected. Also, be mindful of your battery voltage. It may close the interface if the voltage is below 12v. Ensure that lights, etc., are off, and sometimes, it pays to connect a battery charger."
    3 points
  11. It's local~ish to me so yeah I hope to make an Appearance
    3 points
  12. Most people who track a track car don't have insurance on the track either!
    3 points
  13. Got my genuine Recaro seat rails assembled and the passenger seat in for a test fit. Seats are from a 2004 Accord euro R Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk
    3 points
  14. Haha Reviving an old thread. So I ended up finding a brand new VF22 from dodsons motorsport on trademe at less than half the price of a new aftermarket turbo. They had 3 of them sitting under a bench in the back of there workshop for years thay they found in a clean up. Fitted a IWG75 wastegate actuator. Then imported a ported matched up pipe from the UK, that tappered smoothly from the 60mm header collector down to 47mm to match the turbo exhaust housing. Also ported the housing and the wastegate. Fitted soem intake manifold spacers to keep intske temps along with a turbo beanie plus the factory heatsheild overtop of the turbo beanie. Car tuned on Gull force 10 98 made 255kw at wheels and 444nms torque. Been extremely fun! Have run a 12.15sec 1/4 mile at only 104mph as i missed 5th gear so coasted from top of 4th to the line. Left some time on the table there. (I know People will debate a VF22 will make that power but thats what the dyno sheet says and the 1/4 mile time i think is representative of that power also especially coasting from 4th. Have dragy footage to back it up) Now my problem is Gull has stopped supplying force 10 98 to my local station. So I will need a retune for another type of fuel. And possibly lose some power due to no ethanol content. So considering again. A slightly larger stock location bolt on turbo, since i will need a tune anyway. Has anyone had experience with the turbo care tcrx400 turbo? Or them as a company? Also looking at the GCG again. Be quite fun to hit 270-280kw if the 5 soeed box and open deck block would take it.
    2 points
  15. Yup unfortunately for a lot of wrx fans, they are yet to find out this ugly truth
    2 points
  16. After much head scratching, trying different things and sometimes same things over and over, I’ve solved this problem! it didn’t help that the wiring diagrams - I’ve seen about three different sources - are have different wiring colours and don’t have repair/troubleshoot procedures. Meaning that I’ve had to puzzle together what info they’ve given and combine that with past knowledge and experience which isn’t that extensive. I saw this video at the start of the day, and thought I’d perhaps test this out if all fails. Because I was 90% certain that the tail lights can operate without the park light switch. my wires were orange and white with green stripe.
    2 points
  17. Edit: incorrect info removed. Drain is a normal bent pipe fitting 15-30 degrees. Still a few hose clamps not on correctly again after last visit.
    2 points
  18. Update stock Early GC8 wrx springs in a gc8 shock with gc8 top hats in a bc5 lower the car 25mm over stock. Perfect for what I wanted. Keeping it stock looking Looks tidy and even front and rear now.
    2 points
  19. Oh yo I didn’t know that, I’m not too clued up with the “sti” stuff, the struts were out of a 95 gc8 wrx, so yeah incase anyone is referring to this info in the future, and you are looking for gc8 struts that fit in a bc5 - if you have normal shocks match them with early non sti wrx normal shocks🤙💯 I think what went wrong with the super lowering is that because I could only get springs for a gc8 (couldn’t find any manufacturer that does bc5 springs) and the bc5 is heavier than a gc8 that’ll be why it went super super low, im going to try the stock gc8 springs in The new shocks on the weekend, definitely need it half way in between what it was and what it is now 😅
    2 points
  20. Depends on the age/model GC8. STI version 4 on used inverted dampers. Not sure about regular GC8 or WRX. What car did your GC8 dampers come off ? 60-65mm drop - yikes
    2 points
  21. Hmmm for some reason I remember there being a list of swappable Subaru suspension bits on here already completed- I might need to start saving gen 1 legacy info on physical printed paper before I get too old 😆 all sorted now anyway I ended up using measurements to cross reference so I’ll add to the list GC8 Front Shocks (complete) fit BC5 chassis (BUT) only physical difference is on the GC8 the springs taper to a smaller diameter at the top so the spring top hat (not the top rubber bush mount that connects to the strut tower) is different to the bc5 This is an important note for anyone wanting to lower a BC5 without getting adjustables as I was able to source brand new shock absorbers which happen to be the same as GC8 ones anyway (just the lower part) and top mounts but I could only find GC8 lowering springs so I had to buy a set of old GC8 complete shocks so I could salvage the top hats to create a complete shock that fit back into the BC5 chassis aa for the rears I think I’ll just leave them for now as it’s already got “saggy bum” 😆 man I hope this forum stays alive as there is important info on here - can I donate to help keep it going ? I tried to do it on the site but it won’t let me
    2 points
  22. I had a similar issue with my 91 a few years back - ended up being the actual hazard light switch. Not sure if it's helpful but thought I'd throw it out there just in case.
    2 points
  23. awesome eh & a little bit of proof things on the internet stay on the internet ❤️ also small world
    2 points
  24. So ahh yeah 20 years ago around now was my 1st Track Day with ClubSUB @ Manfeild, Ronin won a Jacket & I scored a "Most improved" Wallet that's about my memory of the day so yeah was a bit nostalgic up in the Tower on the weekend watching FlatNATS '23 group taking off back in the day I used to Hire the track under my own name (maybe around 2006 or 7) and we did what we wanted pretty much same for Taupo, though we did get told off for a DIrtbike hah
    2 points
  25. Bought another one, think I'm on my 11th BH/BE
    2 points
  26. at this stage we're getting info the same time as you : all on the FlatNats Facebook Page : https://www.facebook.com/flatnats/events I'm trying to encourage Organisers to use our forums more where possible to share the info ❤️
    2 points
  27. Swapped the broken centre console sliding cover with aliexpress one. the aliexpress one doesn’t have a silver inset on the handle and isn’t rubbery soft touch like the OEM one. Which went off goes sticky. it’s an better match with the rest of the console plastic and looks nicer than the OEM one.
    2 points
  28. I found NZ post seems to hold items a few days and puts them into a single bigger bag for courier to deliver. Previously 4-10 days was normal, now it’s 7-12 days. tempted by the short shifter but it’s pretty short from factory. I do miss the cable shifter as you can raise them up so they are close to the steering wheel and keep the same throw. All I got was the sliding cover since one wrecker wanted $175 for whole console!
    2 points
  29. Cam tools are good to have. I got a set from TM in a hurry that'll surely be aliexpress quality but still work as intended without the massive markup from real brands That brake booster bracket could be a good way to go. I tried hacking up a cusco one to fit past my WG actuator but never quite worked
    2 points
  30. You pretty much have to swap the auto brake pedal to manual one to fit clutch pedal for some or all the below unless you can go to LVVTA certification place and they say it’s all ok in writing. 1) it’s too close together for safe operation or fouls 2) it shares bolts or bracket with brake pedal 3) WOF will likely flag pedal of car is not automatic on next visit 4) drive shafts are swapped so while OEM are not original 5) your insurance maybe denied after an accident and they see the pedal 6) firewall is structural and weakens brake pedal mounts 7) firewall needs to be sealed so cutting and putting new holes is also red flag 8) some cars the firewall isn’t the same for auto and has less reinforcement Do NOT try and bypass or creatively interpret LVVTA rules. Always ask and get it in writing every time. Also any future plans or mods that go to LVVTA may cause issues. i certed my swap a few year later when did coilovers etc. mine was pretty easy as had all OEM parts and even a template for drilling the clutch master.
    2 points
  31. So I have a update. Took it to Crowes. They found it still misfiring on 3. Took the coil out and swap cylinders and the fault followed. Tested the brand new coils. 2 were running at 7v. Tested another subies coils in mine - all then ran at 12. So ordered me yet more coils these ones ran at 12v and now I haven't had a issue since. The head mechanic there said it was a weird issue which he hadn't run into before. I'm just glad all it needed was more new coils....
    2 points
  32. The unit you've linked appears to have a 4 Core 1.5Ghz processor while the iDoing ones are 8-Core 1.8Ghz. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005992338212.html I have an iDoing unit in my Impreza. I also have a 4-core Kunfine unit and have used a different model Android unit in other car. They just aren't as responsive as the higher spec iDoing models. I wouldn't buy a 4-core unit again. I am using my headunit for graphing of engine data etc through an app - so I have a different use-case than most but this does highlight the shortcomings of a lesser-spec unit pretty quickly. Audio quality on all these android units is "OK". If high fidelity is very important to you, I would suggest to look at a name brand headunit.
    2 points
  33. Got the bigger fuel pump and injectors, factory boost cut removed and a retune at roughly 18psi, gained torque and now at 242.6kw and 445.6nm. Less boost at top end as something to do with boostcut above 6k. Alot nicer to drive down low.
    2 points
  34. Sounds like anything that moves or repositions a sensor will not be legal or even able to be certified. So things like wide body kits, grills even mirror that have sensors cannot be moved or get get in the sensors way. Parking sensor should be ok as long as they aren’t used by other systems. Though not sure on how you prove this. eg Lane assist accident warning system radar cruise control Cars mostly other than wide body likely ok. Utes and trucks that fit large bull bars, winches, longer tray or canopies could be caught out. Since they are the ones historically that get the modifications and are starting to be sold with all the electronic aids.
    2 points
  35. Yeah I'm currently doing loop-de-loops with Toyota cos I had my bumper off 10 months ago to fix the corner someone backed a boat into, now the whole front radar/collision detection/blah is packing a s*** and everyone is pointing the finger at each other. Extremely complex systems that apparently have to be just right, no wonder there's just a blanket "thou shalt not futz with this" rule. Honestly I think it would be hard enough to modify those areas without causing constant faults, let alone the legality.
    2 points
  36. doesn’t really apply to you since your top mount but I quite like the look of the setup they’ve gone for with these nozzles. Looks very OEM+ https://motoiq.com/project-gd-sti-adding-an-intercooler-sprayer-to-a-front-mount-intercooler/
    2 points
  37. Look into V8/9 STI Long runner manifold. Doesnt use the TGVs which should help unless you need to keep the TGVs for whatever reason. Are you in Auckland?
    2 points
  38. SX-e compressor cover on the way. Since a BOV was fitted to intercooler and there is some surge it seems like it is a must. Under new digital LVVTA cert with photos the cover would show up so needs done before cert. Hope this will fatten up mid range and reduce intake temps a little for boost in efficiency. Power and boost is limited by ecu so it’ll still make same peak after. BW apparently has no stock and they have unfilled back orders from 2021 for parts. They have supply chain and move to china production issues.
    2 points
  39. ECU link plug and play G4x basic tune almost makes same boost at 3000rpm as factory. no features enabled Fuel system radium dual pump cradle dual detchwerks 300 pumps radium fuel rail ethanol sensor Cooling RCM oil cooler valve oil cooler front mounted koyo radiator Other parts twin plate organic sprung clutch Top mount PW intercooler AOS self draining BPV from GFB leaked and couldn’t hold boost so replaced wth turbosmart. Aircon pump that works with the newer clutch design that does snap as often stock intake manifold with inside deburred stock exhaust headers Notes Car now runs and drives. few small issues left to sort. looking at sx-e compressor cover since bpv on intercooler. May also help boost ramp faster turbosmart bpv makes chuff noises not the Pssssh like GFB which I don’t like. Exhaust is quieter now with drone mored up rev range so not at 100kph in 6th. intake makes a s*** tonne of noise.
    2 points
  40. It's not how it sounds, it's what you do with it.
    2 points
  41. Weight reduction mod, may help with engine bay heat too apparently 🤔
    1 point
  42. I'm about 90% sure this is spam. Prove me wrong.
    1 point
  43. Plugging in a random ECU with an unknown tune and turning the key is a kinda terrible idea and it is 0% surprising that the car won't run with it. If the ECU was mapped for, say, a race car with 2000cc injectors and you're running stock 440s or something it's never going to run. I'd start by flashing a base map (if you can find a computer with a version of PCLink that will still talk to a PossumLink). Actually, no. I'd start by putting the PossumLink in a museum and installing an ECU from this millennium so your tuner doesn't hate you.
    1 point
  44. Big dredge but I have an EJ254 the bottom corner bolts hit the subframe.. is it as simple as undoing the two 14mm bolts on the lower engine mounts, and the one going through the upper one, then jacking up the engine off the sump a little bit to where the bolts have enough room to come out? Sorry, first time doing this job. Cheers
    1 point
  45. It wasn't a white legacy, they got the description wrong. It was a silver wrx wagon.
    1 point
  46. May have just enough space for turbo cover. Moving bracket holding up pipe 1-2mm outwards which should gain 2-3mm at top. Cutting off closest mount that is unused. Cutting height down on the bolt mount surface on TVG saves 3-4mm Using screw head not bolt head on same mount saves 3-4mm Thermal spacers are 8mm so can drop to 3mm ones, or even factory gaskets. Another 5-8mm All of which hopefully make up the 12.5mm radius increase. can also deform the silicone joiner a bit as turbo and manifold are bolted to block and won’t rub. Even if crushed in the anti surge airways are below the top point on turbo inlet. So much effort for tiny gain. Well maybe 30-40hp from cover swap.
    1 point
  47. There are diagrams around... you just need to search for them. It's very likely that Joker is correct though. Just a spare plug with some power going to it, so useful for some previous owners to hook into for whatever.
    1 point
  48. 1. Upgrade the headers 2. Knock out all the cats in the system --> This one is a bit tricky because of the new laws around catalytic converters, which states that any car registered in NZ after 2010 that was manufactured after 1990 has to have a catalytic converter in the system. If you legacy was NZ new in 2006 then you can take all the cats out and still get a WOF. If it was imported after 2010, then you'll have to do the less legal thing of finding someone to knock the guts out of all of your catalytic converters and leaving the empty cats in place so that it still looks like you've got them in the system to get your WOF. Best to cut them open, remove all the filling, then weld them shut again as opposed to knocking the guts out with a metal pole. If you're not keen on doing this, then 1 high flow cat will suffice ($150 from Redline) I found an image of the stock exhaust system that shows where all of the cats are below. 3. Remove the mid system muffler (labelled number 24 in the image) and replace it with a resonator (you can get a 2.5" one from Redline for $60) as this muffler does NOTHING and removing the cats will increase the exhaust noise a little and putting this resonator in will deaden the sound again. If you prefer to use a high flow cat, use this instead of the resonator. 4. Leave the stock mufflers in place. They do restrict flow a little bit, but not much and they kill a hell of a lot of noise. Pic below Headers + all other work should cost you less than $1,500 to do. Then you can get onto the Romraider forums and research tuning unless you want to shell out another $1,000+ to have it dyno tuned or find someone to reflash your ECU for less This should help with another 20 - 30kw and make the car feel a fair bit more torquey (I had a tuned 30R with exhaust done at one stage and my wife had an untuned one and the difference was quite noticeable).
    1 point


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