paroxysm

Ye tried tightening the arm a couple times last night. More boost but less speed. Ima try the other actuator 2day but i think i jst need to leave it at 5psi untill new turbos in and c wat happens from there. But yes. amazing to be back in boost.

Ok so good news. Reset the ecu as per internet inscructions. Tighternd actuator arm to halfway so flap was closed and it drove perfectly at 4-5psi!! Tried the wg to turbo and that was the same and with the turbo and wg not connected it ran 5psi I am going to try different actuator arm lengths and the other actuator over the next cpl days as i get time and will report back But is it wierd that it only made 5psi with nutn connected? i would have thot it would have kept climbing or sumthn? The car ran 5-7psi when i brought it. 7 in 4th and 5th gears

Any suggestions would be appriciated as my car is running so badly.. I do have a spare turbo. could changing the turbo fix it as it seems that without any boost control its still horrible

Looked up checking the ecu myself. hooked up the black wires like it said to get it into diagnostic mode, no check engine light came on and it said if there was no problem it would come on and flash repeatedly... I unplugged the lines from the turbo and actuator where they go to at the solinoid valve. Then put one line between the turbo and actuator. With the actuator arm loose like I said before (the only way the car would drive properly) there was no difference. With the arm tightened halfway the car was running like ass and it was showing like 4psi on the gauge Then I tried unplugging the line from the turbo. So the actuator, turbo and solinoid valve have no lines between them ( i hope this is what you meant) In conclusion still only ran fine with the arm really loose, like the wastegate flap (if u know what i mean) is allready open a bit Basically same results apart from when the arm was tightened halfway it was showing 7+ psi but still driving horribly and slowly.

Thanks very much guys. Will do first thing in the morning. So if the line goes straight to the actuator and is running fine then its the factory boost control? and by have nothing on the wg actuator do you mean have the actuator on but no line going to it?? or no actuator connected?

Solinoid is in exactly the same as last one. Dont know about code, took it into subaru to get that and dont wanna shell out more money. I swapped the actuator with another one as I have a turbo I want to replace the old one with as it whines really badly. Its supposed to have a 10psi spring but ran 5-7psi like my old one. Old ones back in now but i read up on preloading gates so tryed to ajust it. Now it wont run right if the actuator arm is pulling the internal gate flap closed. if theres a bit of room it drives normally with hardly any boost and if its pulling the flap closed then it is really slow for like 2000-3000 rpm after you floor it and then it starts pulling really hard. But not just slow. like moving nowhere at all. really horrible

Hi all, I have a 96 wrx and about a month ago it started running like crap. was struggling to keep at 100ks and if you floored it, it would loose power. took it into subaru winger and they said it was the "turbo valves" I was puzzled so I looked up the error code and it said wastegate duty solinoid valve. I grabed a second hand one because they wanted $400 for the part and it solved my problem for about 2 days then it started messing up again. Not as bad as before but still crap. Will only drive properly if i lengthen the actuator arm but then its only at like 3 psi. any tighter and its crap. Any ideas on what it could be?