Andy_Mac
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Everything posted by Andy_Mac
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98 Ron+ fuel locations South Island
Andy_Mac replied to Timmah's topic in General Vehicle Discussion
Damn that's some good economy. I'd be lucky to get more like 500-550 from a tank in the Legacy at best -
Axle circlips left behind in the diff!!! Is this normal?
Andy_Mac replied to Panda's topic in General Vehicle Discussion
Yea you will have the r180. Can't actually comment on axle types though. I only ever pulled the front ones on my old one. They are an oddball axle though, r180 sized inner with r160 outer to match the hubs for the rest of the lineup -
Confirming EJ20Y cambelt torque specs.
Andy_Mac replied to Panda's topic in General Vehicle Discussion
No idea off the top of my head but I always just use the specs for a 257 from one of the GR/GV service manuals, pretty sure there are a few 2.0 4th gen ones floating around too. But i’d be highly surprised if it was any different for roughly the same age -
Knocking noise when Braking 2008 STI
Andy_Mac replied to Darren's topic in General Vehicle Discussion
Is it like a single knock as something moves forward when you brake or a repeated knock/clunk when doing so? -
yea I just unbolted the mani but left everything attached so it could move a bit to make life easier. I’d definitely do mani before uppipe on one of these cars
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you can leave that stainless pipe in place and just bolt the blank piece onto the pipe flange. It ends up just under the turbo and way easier than ditching the whole thing unless you plan to have the uppipe off anyway. Everything in front of that point can be fully deleted. Remember to keep atleast part of the valve with more pins as it has your atmo sensor in it. Pretty sure from memory it’s that one closer to the turbo
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Yea rumour seems to be they’ll all be phased out progressively by the end of the year but hopefully that isn’t actually the case. NPD would be nice if stations were better scattered. Maybe 95 and mixed in E isn’t such a bad idea
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Heard one next to one of the race tracks had ditched it atleast, can’t remember if was supply or demand related
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Help with 2012 WRX - SE Crouching Tiger
Andy_Mac replied to Supertec2610's topic in General Vehicle Discussion
Best way is to find part numbers is to chuck your chassis number into partsouq.com You can find it on Carjam or the Vin plate- 1 reply
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Yea i’d looked into powertune too but had never seen anyone doing odo which i assume is legally needed. Looks like a heap of work to get everything running as you want based on some of the questions rhat pop up on the powertune fb group. What about Haltech? The ic-7 is pretty reasonably priced and would possibly be better suited, or even the aim street dash that gives indicators amd engine light stuff on the side of the frame rather than just on the display
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Is the goal to replace the factory cluster? If so you’re a bit more limited in what will do all the factory stuff like indicators and odo and whatnot Emtron do a real nice 10inch one, it’s only like 9 grand
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pretty sure that age is fully tunable as it is but isn’t in the same league as tuning with a link, especially if you get a big intake and want to go speed density yea there were a few badged like that but not the norm atleast
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The body is already an 01 WRX so should be adequate for cert purposes other than hoops probably
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Can’t remember when the changeover was to phase 2 stuff but v3 may not match manifold bolt spacing too. But yea stay with the v7 ones if possible. You won’t need anything too fancy at that power level unless you want to put a link in and go v7 sti heads with intake avcs.
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The block won’t be quite as strong from the get go as it’ll be open deck design but half the turbo ones out there are like that too. The block itself is simple but for heads you’d want to stay with the same ones to keep sensor stuff compatible without a heap more work on wiring. 400hp is probably pushing it a bit for reliability of an open deck block if it’ll be driven hard. Unless you’re getting the non turbo one free it’s possibly still worth trying to get hold of a blown 207 to build up
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Weight reduction mod, may help with engine bay heat too apparently 🤔
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it’ll have some cooling but without crossing over the core and short cycling it won’t be as effective as it could be. Plus if your paying big money for a shop to do it you’d expect them to atleast do it the way it is supposed to be. Common sense would say that with tiny inlet restrictors the drain ‘should’ be perfectly fine with something only slightly bigger but in reality it doesn’t seem to work out like that. I’ve had thorough talks with Alltech about it and they even think 5/8 ID hose is on the small size and that 3/4 is the correct way to go. Pretty sure even borg warner have come out and said that the small bore thread in option with small hose won’t often be enough. I’ve got a new cartridge for mine coming next year with the intention of proving once and for all whether the turbo is damaged somewhat or whether it is feed/drain related
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Possibly also had a dry sump on the engine since racecar so that removes the size issue. And yea standard is 5/8 @Gripless surely at some point though it's spinning slow enough to not get all frothy and whatnot and kinda drip down rather than flicking all over the place
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Only watched the first one but definitely makes me want to commit to making a custom 3/4 drain setup. Long idling is an interesting point too. I let mine idle for a considerable time so could be a factor in all of this also. Though mine is worst during decel where the raves are still up there a bit so shouldn't be slow enough to not be slingin’ I was thinking about this the other day and whether going to an e-gate and having it fully open at idle would help at all or make things worse. It'd either slow the turbo down so much it barely spins and possibly reduce the need for the slinger at all or just make it worse since it won't be doing anything
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I was thinking aos solely for the idea that I wouldn't want that vapour entering the turbo as it was. But it would probably be a bit too oily to just vent or add to a catch can How is that any different to a dry sump with a dedicated turbo scavenge or just a dry sump in general since it’s actively pulling the crankcase into an attempted slight vacuum.
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Interesting watch. I've been wondering if a big ass 3/4 drain off the turbo with a tee going back to an AOS then to intake would help to pull some of the oil vapour out early on or whether that suction would hold things up at the bottom block drain point.
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The annoying part for you is everything except the turbo was done by them so it's an easy way out to blame the turbo even if it is a common issue. I still think the table limit isn't quite right unless you've actually talked to Link? Surely the plugin is based upon a fully capable ECU so it may just need thing repurposed that are no longer used to get everything that is needed. Easiest way to progress is to get a can dash like the canchecked one I've got then run some extra sensors to it for monitoring, you've realistically got no idea what turbo oil pressure is doing without one
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I want one solely to steal the eg33 out of. Building one of those is definitely my next project. There's a site I go to where the guy there has an eg33 manual converted BH Legacy that sounds super sick plus a bunch of SVX’s aswell
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Maybe on DOBC.
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Yea that'll work.
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