[98 Ron+ fuel locations South Island]

5 hours ago, Boltonator said:

Range has never been an issue with the Legacy wagon (BP5) thankfully. 720km is the most I have done in one tank in the North Island over summer. I think it was New Plymouth to Taupo, some shagging about and then to Paraparaumu. 

 

I suppose with all fuel being imported these days there's no strong reason for there to be supply issues on the premium grades. Compression ratios are going up too for dat fuel economy. 

 

Damn that's some good economy. I'd be lucky to get more like 500-550 from a tank in the Legacy at best

[Axle circlips left behind in the diff!!! Is this normal?]

7 hours ago, Panda said:

Upon a bit of research I believe I have an R180 diff. Even pulled axles out of these in particular?

 

Yea you will have the r180. Can't actually comment on axle types though. I only ever pulled the front ones on my old one. They are an oddball axle though, r180 sized inner with r160 outer to match the hubs for the rest of the lineup

[Confirming EJ20Y cambelt torque specs.]

No idea off the top of my head but I always just use the specs for a 257 from one of the GR/GV service manuals, pretty sure there are a few 2.0 4th gen ones floating around too. But i’d be highly surprised if it was any different for roughly the same age

[Knocking noise when Braking 2008 STI]

Is it like a single knock as something moves forward when you brake or a repeated knock/clunk when doing so?

[What have you done to your car today?]

6 hours ago, Boltonator said:

So you would pull the manifold before you would pull the up pipe? The pedant in me wants to blank it off closest to the source but the other option would allow me to check my banjo bolt as well. Options options.....

yea I just unbolted the mani but left everything attached so it could move a bit to make life easier. I’d definitely do mani before uppipe on one of these cars

[What have you done to your car today?]

9 hours ago, Boltonator said:

Deleted the easier of the two Secondary Air pump combi valves and put the PBMS blanking plate on the back of the head. I had hopes that the exhaust noise that I was hearing on startup was from the easy valve but alas it was not the case and I have to do the right side one before it fails completely. Its only a matter of time with the NRV stuck open. I'll probably leave the other valve in place and just blank the back of the head after I remove the up pipe. I could cut the pipe but I don't know what kind of access I'm going to have with the turbo still in place. 

you can leave that stainless pipe in place and just bolt the blank piece onto the pipe flange. It ends up just under the turbo and way easier than ditching the whole thing unless you plan to have the uppipe off anyway. Everything in front of that point can be fully deleted. Remember to keep atleast part of the valve with more pins as it has your atmo sensor in it. Pretty sure from memory it’s that one closer to the turbo

 

 

 

[Will Gull force 10 ruin my car?]

6 hours ago, Joker said:

 

 

From a Facebook Post this week

 

has garnered a fair amount of comments and reaction's

Yea rumour seems to be they’ll all be phased out progressively by the end of the year but hopefully that isn’t actually the case. NPD would be nice if stations were better scattered. Maybe 95 and mixed in E isn’t such a bad idea

[Will Gull force 10 ruin my car?]

9 hours ago, Joker said:

I saw a Rumour on IG that e10 is being Phased out in 2024?

 

cant confirm at this point in time but I'm searching for any mention of this

Heard one next to one of the race tracks had ditched it atleast, can’t remember if was supply or demand related

[Help with 2012 WRX - SE Crouching Tiger]

Best way is to find part numbers is to chuck your chassis number into partsouq.com 

You can find it on Carjam or the Vin plate

[Digital Dashs]

Yea i’d looked into powertune too but had never seen anyone doing odo which i assume is legally needed. Looks like a heap of work to get everything running as you want based on some of the questions rhat pop up on the powertune fb group. What about Haltech? The ic-7 is pretty reasonably priced and would possibly be better suited, or even the aim street dash that gives indicators amd engine light stuff on the side of the frame rather than just on the display

[Digital Dashs]

Is the goal to replace the factory cluster? If so you’re a bit more limited in what will do all the factory stuff like indicators and odo and whatnot

 

Emtron do a real nice 10inch one, it’s only like 9 grand

[turbo build from non turbo block]

33 minutes ago, lorisk said:

will i not need a link-ecu after the build?,
can i throw it on the dyno with the 01 v7 ecu it has? stock v7 wrx heads?
i mean i was planning on getting a link, but not if i dont have to lol.
i didnt have to for my car i was lucky to save that money. be winning if its the case here also lol

pretty sure that age is fully tunable as it is but isn’t in the same league as tuning with a link, especially if you get a big intake and want to go speed density

2 minutes ago, Joker said:

 

Non Turbo WRX year was 2001 

 

 

though, yes appears I confused myself : carry on  have fun!

yea there were a few badged like that but not the norm atleast

[turbo build from non turbo block]

4 minutes ago, Joker said:

Hardest Part : not sure if you've considered it, will be getting it road legal aye?

 

It'll need a Cert which may include Brakes, driveshaft loops and even a Gearbox to handle it?

 

eg the main reason most will say sell it & buy a Turbo Car

 

sorry to be the "fun police here"

The body is already an 01 WRX so should be adequate for cert purposes other than hoops probably 

[turbo build from non turbo block]

35 minutes ago, lorisk said:

cheers, the block is free.
can the block be closed if need be? wont be driven hard.400 is a maximum output also.

 

when you say(stay with the same ones) do you mean v7 ones that match her current loom in the current car?
another friend has v3 sti heads and v7 wrx heads. both of those heads will fit this non turbo block?

but the v7 heads will fit all the plugs currently in car?

 

Can’t remember when the changeover was to phase 2 stuff but v3 may not match manifold bolt spacing too. 
But yea stay with the v7 ones if possible. You won’t need anything too fancy at that power level unless you want to put a link in and go v7 sti heads with intake avcs. 

[turbo build from non turbo block]

The block won’t be quite as strong from the get go as it’ll be open deck design but half the turbo ones out there are like that too. The block itself is simple but for heads you’d want to stay with the same ones to keep sensor stuff compatible without a heap more work on wiring. 
400hp is probably pushing it a bit for reliability of an open deck block if it’ll be driven hard. Unless you’re getting the non turbo one free it’s possibly still worth trying to get hold of a blown 207 to build up

[What have you done to your car today?]

Weight reduction mod, may help with engine bay heat too apparently 🤔

 

 

[Project Kinder Surprise - engine build]

2 hours ago, boon said:

 

bruh, lol

 

I mean come on.

 

 

Re. the oil drain bits, AFAIK due to the tiny inlet restrictor built into the bearing housing these don't need to drain that much? The tech manual seems to think a fitting with ~0.4" bore into a 1/2" drain line is adequate.

it’ll have some cooling but without crossing over the core and short cycling it won’t be as effective as it could be. Plus if your paying big money for a shop to do it you’d expect them to atleast do it the way it is supposed to be. 
 
Common sense would say that with tiny inlet restrictors the drain ‘should’ be perfectly fine with something only slightly bigger but in reality it doesn’t seem to work out like that. I’ve had thorough talks with Alltech about it and they even think 5/8 ID hose is on the small size and that 3/4 is the correct way to go. 

 

Pretty sure even borg warner have come out and said that the small bore thread in option with small hose won’t often be enough. 
 

I’ve got a new cartridge for mine coming next year with the intention of proving once and for all whether the turbo is damaged somewhat or whether it is feed/drain related

[EFR turbos and oil drains]

3 hours ago, boon said:

My EFR came with a really small AN fitting threaded into the drain. But then it was also #racecar so maybe doing some bizarre stuff us road car plebs don't have access to. I've gone for whatever the Subaru factory oil return is - 5/8"?

 

Possibly also had a dry sump on the engine since racecar so that removes the size issue. 

And yea standard is 5/8

 

@Gripless surely at some point though it's spinning slow enough to not get all frothy and whatnot and kinda drip down rather than flicking all over the place

[EFR turbos and oil drains]

1 hour ago, Gripless said:

Turbo drains cut away, with oil issue causes

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGSoe-sZcXk

Oil issues

jumps to timestamp for Crankcase vent 
https://youtu.be/X9pzZCFXrV4?t=226

 

even CV hose length causing issues.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KopDR9A9uas

 

 

 

Only watched the first one but definitely makes me want to commit to making a custom 3/4 drain setup. Long idling is an interesting point too. I let mine idle for a considerable time so could be a factor in all of this also. Though mine is worst during decel where the raves are still up there a bit so shouldn't be slow enough to not be slingin’

 

I was thinking about this the other day and whether going to an e-gate and having it fully open at idle would help at all or make things worse. It'd either slow the turbo down so much it barely spins and possibly reduce the need for the slinger at all or just make it worse since it won't be doing anything

[EFR turbos and oil drains]

10 minutes ago, Gripless said:

I think AOS designs are mostly pretty or clones of someone’s else idea more than functional.

Seems far better to replace the head baffle system with a better one than run a separate AOS.

 

line to intake may need the low mount sump and breather otherwise the intake vacuum would be pulling oil through the turbo.

 

I was thinking aos solely for the idea that I wouldn't want that vapour entering the turbo as it was. But it would probably be a bit too oily to just vent or add to a catch can

 

How is that any different to a dry sump with a dedicated turbo scavenge or just a dry sump in general since it’s actively pulling the crankcase into an attempted slight vacuum.

[EFR turbos and oil drains]

Interesting watch.

I've been wondering if a big ass 3/4 drain off the turbo with a tee going back to an AOS then to intake would help to pull some of the oil vapour out early on or whether that suction would hold things up at the bottom block drain point. 

[Project Kinder Surprise - engine build]

6 hours ago, Gripless said:

So getting pretty over this now.

 

earlier found hoses rubbing on things, latest was drivers side head breather kinked almost closed from routing and over tighten cable ties.

 

car still has minor issue with engine and reasons given are all over the place depending on who answers the phone or question.
 

ECU doesn’t support functions due to table limits

Been told turbo is the issue and 2 in 12 new turbos have seal leaks.

 

Still has hunting idle and rough spots at 1200 and 3k rpm 

 

The annoying part for you is everything except the turbo was done by them so it's an easy way out to blame the turbo even if it is a common issue. 

I still think the table limit isn't quite right unless you've actually talked to Link? Surely the plugin is based upon a fully capable ECU so it may just need thing repurposed that are no longer used to get everything that is needed. 

Easiest way to progress is to get a can dash like the canchecked one I've got then run some extra sensors to it for monitoring, you've realistically got no idea what turbo oil pressure is doing without one

[Which Subaru is your next?]

I want one solely to steal the eg33 out of. Building one of those is definitely my next project. 

There's a site I go to where the guy there has an eg33 manual converted BH Legacy that sounds super sick plus a bunch of SVX’s aswell

[Ultimate ECU Identity List]

24 minutes ago, THUNDA said:

Heya all 

Been awhile

 

Was scanning the archives as ive recently picked up another BC5

 

There was a detailed list of all the 4Plug WRX/RS/GT Ecus with Specs etc - A great list I have often referred to over the years

 

Ive been looking high and low but cant find it on the site anymore - Now im starting to think it may have never been on clubsub - scratching my head abit

Hopefully someone can link me

 

Thanks it Advance!

Maybe on DOBC. 

[How to: Rocker Cover Gasket]

4 minutes ago, swamp said:

Big dredge but 

I have an EJ254 
the bottom corner bolts hit the subframe..

is it as simple as undoing the two 14mm bolts on the lower engine mounts, and the one going through the upper one, then jacking up the engine off the sump a little bit to where the bolts have enough room to come out? 

Sorry, first time doing this job. 

Cheers 

Yea that'll work.