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      ClubSUB 2018 Calendar is now avilable!   24/09/17

      Click here for more info!
       
      The 2018 ClubSUB Calendar, Powered by Possum Borne Motorsport is now available.

      12 Hand picked full colour photos, taken by menbers, submitted by members and chosen by members.
      All vehicles in the calendar are owned by members of the NZ Subaru Enthusiasts community.

      A massive thanks to the team at PBMS for coming on board for another year!

      This is a very sought after calendar and only available for a limited time.
      Also, if you are a subscribed member of ClubSUB, you will be in for a descent discount, so make sure you're logged in.

      Please note, as these are printed to order, shipping will be delayed. we will make 3 orders, October 30th, November 27th, and December 11th. If you dont order intime to make one of these shipping dates, we will get it out to you in the new year.

Rosssub

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Rosssub last won the day on September 10 2016

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About Rosssub

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  1. Nah the AEM 50-1200 is too big at 124mm, same as the DW200 and Walbro. Should be listed above.
  2. Rev A-C use a 3 wire O2 sensor, mounted in the F/L header. Remove the surrounding heat shields and use a 22mm ring spanner to get the sensor out. About $190 through partsouq.com IIRC, using your chassis number for part finding. Rev D uses a 4 wire AFR sensor (incompatible). https://partsouq.com/en/search/search?q=10103ab470 The starter signal CEL can be from cranking with a low or flat battery. The CEL pops up if the ECU voltage drops below a certain point while starting/cranking. New knock sensors are under $60 through strongs: Use a 12mm socket with a long extension to get the sensor out. Take note of the original sensors rotation and fit the new one on the same angle. https://www.subaruspeed.co.nz/collections/electrical/products/new-knock-sensor-legacy-199803
  3. The two bushes Loner mentioned are seen below. If the bushes are gone it can cause a solid thump or knock from the back end. Most noticeable at low speeds, taking off or when on and off the gas. The bushes might of been split or perished and jacking the car up made them let go completely. Check the bushes for perishing, or jack the diff slightly to look for splits and cracks under tension. Could also use a block of wood and a long bar to lever the diff upwards forcefully and see if it clunks. More pic's in here showing the front support, diff removed etc:
  4. Most electronic boost controllers don't use a T-piece at all. With an EBC the stock boost solenoid just needs to be plugged in to stop a CEL coming up.
  5. Check for boost leaks/vac leaks. Then stick it into test mode with the green plugs under the dash and clean out the BBOD and primary boost solenoid: Solenoid box cleanout: http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/11043-code-66-and-boost-issueshow-to-clean-them-out/ Primary boost solenoid inside F/L guard:
  6. OEM the outlet/vent hose from the boost solenoid connects to the plastic intake pipe pre turbo. Not the end of the world if it's venting to atmosphere, chances are you're going to need to run aftermarket boost control anyway.
  7. In that pic: Hose #11 - Straight to intake manifold. Hose #15 - To the turbo/WG actuator T piece. Hose #5 -- Bleeding back to the intake pipe
  8. Pic/step # 5 above shows the lower turbo heat shield bolts that need to be removed while under the car. Pic/step #16 shows all heat shields removed to unbolt the downpipe from the turbo. Pic/step #20 shows the DP removed to undo the turbo bolts from above. Only the 14mm uppipe support bracket bolts have a nut on the bottom. That can be accessed with a spanner from above the car, once the heat shields and downpipe have been removed completely:
  9. If in any doubt at all. Always quality work and discounts for CS members. PM Ajay with any questions or for a quote:: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/48694-subirex-automotive-limited/ Whiteline bars through evowrx: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/44326-whiteline-barsalk-northland/ Whiteline 99GF8 22mm adjustable part number BSR20XZ: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=BSR20XZ&sq=23369 Whiteline BSR20XZ installation guide: http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/install_guides/Z320.pdf If you have the tools and you're keen to give it a go: Nothing wrong with using a scissor jack, just slower that's all. But as GC8E2DD said, scissor jacks aren't as stable or strong as trolley jacks so best to lift one corner at a time. Rear left, then rear right. As long as it's on flat hard ground and you never put your body under the vehicle until it is sitting securely on axle stands (spare rims/blocks of wood). When jacking a car to work under it's always best to chock the wheels that are staying on the ground, even with the car in gear and the handbrake on. Chock the wheels with a big rock or lump of wood, something that will stop the ground wheels rolling if anything goes wrong. For example an all wheel drive car with open differentials in gear with the handbrake on and the rear wheels being lifted off the ground for a swaybar swap, if the jack fails or tips over the car can still roll forwards or backwards. Nothing wrong with using spare wheels as axle stands. As GC8E2DD said, jack the car up and slide the spare rims under the cars back wheels, then lower the car so it's sitting up on the rims. With both rear wheels level there is no tension on the swaybar and ARB links. Plus technically all suspension bushes and suspension links should always be tightened or torqued up with the vehicle suspension sitting at normal ride height. Not only for new part alignment and clearance checking, but for the suspension bushes to function as intended. A lot of suspension bushes these days are solid or made as one piece and do not have rotating parts. When the suspension articulates the rubbery section of the bush twists causing tension, then when the suspension goes back to normal ride height the bush goes back to neutral twist/neutral tension. Not so critical with ball joint type rotating sway bar links. But picture a rigid type ARB link (anti roll bar link) with fixed solid bushes top and bottom. If torqued up with the suspension at full droop and then the vehicle is lowered to normal ride height. The fixed ARB link bushes will either tear apart and no longer be fixed, or twist and be under constant tension. Effecting both suspension movement (twist tension causing lift) and swaybar tension/behaviour (now favouring downward suspension movement and more resistant to upward suspension movement), plus it also shortens the life of the bushes.
  10. My BH5B has a clutch switch, tied in with the starter system wiring. I have the my clutch switch bridged so that I can start the car without the clutch depressed. Guessing yours has the same switch that might be playing up, check that the switch isn't loose or broken. Or try bridging it if it keeps playing up.
  11. Added some more info to the OP. Bore wall and stiffener thickness changes through the EJ207: S20C -- 9.6mm Version 7/8 EJ207 T20C --- 9.6mm Version 9 EJ207 W20C - 13.2mm Version 10 EJ207 Version 10 STI block W20C beside the Version 7/8/9 S20C/T20C: Then also some crankshaft differences: 12200AA210 - BE/BH EJ206/EJ208 ---------------- OEM cross drilled crank 12200AA240 - Version 5/6/7 STI EJ207/EJ205 -- OEM cross drilled crank 12200AA270 - Version 8/9 STI EJ207 GDBC ---- OEM double cross drilled and nitrated crank (better oiling and hardened - black colouring) 12200AA390 - Version 10 STI EJ207 GRB ------- OEM double cross drilled and nitrated crank (better oiling and hardened - black colouring) JDM Version 5/6/7 STI EJ207 - cross drilled crankshaft: Version 8/9/10 STI EJ207 - double cross drilled and nitrated crankshaft:
  12. Probably in excess of 350kw at the wheels. There's a few EJ207 crank differences to be aware of too: 12200AA210 - BE/BH EJ206/EJ208 ---------------- OEM cross drilled crank 12200AA240 - Version 5/6/7 STI EJ207/EJ205 -- OEM cross drilled crank 12200AA270 - Version 8/9 STI EJ207 GDBC ---- OEM double cross drilled and nitrated crank (better oiling and hardened - black colouring) 12200AA390 - Version 10 STI EJ207 GRB ------- OEM double cross drilled and nitrated crank (better oiling and hardened - black colouring) JDM Version 5/6/7 STI EJ207 - cross drilled crankshaft: Version 8/9/10 STI EJ207 - double cross drilled and nitrated crankshaft: EJ207 block engine codes, head codes , piston and crank differences in here: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/41534-ej205ej207ej208-short-block-identification/ Here's a good write up on what the EJ stock internals can take: http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/impp-1103-subaru-ej-series-engine-tech/
  13. If you find a swaybar for your vehicle in whiteline's list, down the bottom of the page it shows other models that the bar will fit: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=BSR49Z&sq=23258 For example the 20mm non-adjustable whiteline swaybar p/n BSR49 will fit: BSR49 Vehicle Applications Click on your vehicle below for fitment details. SUBARU FORESTER SH INCL TURBO(9/2008-8/2013) SUBARU FORESTER SJ INCL TURBO(9/2013-ON) SUBARU IMPREZA GE SEDAN, GH HATCH EXCL WRX & STI(9/2007-8/2011) SUBARU IMPREZA GJ SEDAN, GP HATCH EXCL WRX & STI(9/2011-3/2014) SUBARU IMPREZA WRX GV SEDAN, GR HATCH(9/2007-8/2011) SUBARU IMPREZA WRX GJ SEDAN, GP HATCH(9/2011-3/2014) SUBARU IMPREZA STI GV HATCH(9/2007-8/2011) SUBARU IMPREZA STI GJ SEDAN, GP HATCH(9/2011-2/2014) SUBARU LEGACY BM SEDAN, BR WAGON INCL TURBO(9/2009-ON) SUBARU LIBERTY BM SEDAN, BR WAGON INCL TURBO(9/2009-ON) SUBARU OUTBACK BR INCL TURBO(9/2009-ON)
  14. Are you running an aftermarket venting blow off valve?
  15. This is a merge of posts from my garage thread. Covering my BH5 GTB 5MT centre differential change to a Version 8 WRX centre diff: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/40292-rosssubs-gtb/&page=4 Started ripping the BH centre diff out this evening. After driving at 100kph for a while, then trying a tight turn it's locking up pretty bad. Car jerks forward violently as though all the CV's are stuffed. Also making it under steer easily at any speed when the centre diff's hot/binding. Jacked up and GB oil drained: Driveshaft out: GB supported with a jack: GB cross member removed Here's the shifter linkages at the rear of the GB: Shifter linkage and stabiliser unbolted: Locking slide pins removed from shifter linkage knucle: After removing both locking pins (inner/outer) the shifter linkage knuckle will come off: Exhaust hanger bracket and transfer case rear cover unbolted: Rear cover (extension case) ready to come off: Using a flat head screwdriver and hammer to separate the transfer case/rear cover: Worked apart nice and evenly: Centre diff and driven gear coming out: Removed: Driven gear shaft and centre diff slid out of rear cover: Transfer drive gear removed from centre diff: Gasket surfaces all cleaned up and ready for the replacement diff to arrive: Here's the replacement centre diff, it's from a Version 8 WRX. BH5B (TZ254) - Version 8 WRX (DA230) BH5 - V7 WRX New diff installed into rear casing then lubricated: 3-4mm bead of gasket silicone on the transfer case: New center diff/rear casing installed and torqued to 40 Nm(29.7 ft-lb), then exhaust hanger bracket back on: Shifter linkage knuckle and stay back on: GB crossmember and driveshaft back in: Just topping the oil up (3.5L), then it's time to set the new EBC up. Here's a thread by Gazzy2000 covering swapping to an earlier phase 1 WRX/STI centre diff, centre casing and rear casing: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/14690-center-diff-gone-in-your-bh-heres-a-very-cheap-option/ Then DRFVDR's centre diff locking for RWD how to thread: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/20114-centre-diff-locking-for-rwd-how-to-by-uncle-darth/