Zeus
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Posts posted by Zeus
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2 hours ago, 1randomkiwi said:
eBay?
I was thinking alibaba, wish or SAS
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14 hours ago, Gripless said:
888 pages
today I’m again replacing the left rear sway bar link for the third time.
Where are you getting your links from 😨
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13 hours ago, sobanoodle said:
Wheel alignments?
12 hours ago, Batbaruman said:oooh might have to pop in to quote up some coilovers , edfc and alignment...
@JordanfromNZ definately getting some for his car too
Wheel alignments are done by the Racelign workshop in Mount Wellington, so they aren't included.
The discount is off parts and tools not services.
Just know that not everything you want will be in store on the day so send me a PM of what you want (and your rego) and I'll let you availability and if we can have it for the weekend.
15 hours ago, RaKid said:OK - how about a lift kit for a '94 Suzuki Escudo?
Sent you a PM
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15 minutes ago, RaKid said:
Can I get a price on servicing GD shocks? The inverted type ones.
Servicing is excluded from the day as it is done by our Racelign workshop.
Also for quoting they need to have the shocks to check them.
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44 minutes ago, Timmah said:
Hey team,
Do we have anyone who can get Whiteline products for a bit cheaper than BNT/Autolign?
Wanting to get some camber bolts for my Startlet, but BNT want to charge me $85 which seems excessive
I'll PM you mate.
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Autolign North Shore is having it's official grand opening Saturday 13th April from 9am to 3pm.
127D Target Road, Glenfield, Auckland
The BBQ will be on all day, and this isn't being advertised but all sales on the day they will be doing at trade pricing, so come down and take advantage of that.
There will also be a couple drifters with they're cars on show.
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- Popular Post
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These are pretty good to avoid speeding tickets
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Cambelt, tensioner, idlers and waterpump. Up to you if you do the cam and crank seals, rule of thumb is if they aren't leaking leave them.
Tbh you might find winger has sharper pricing then partsouq (take freight into account with your pricing)
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2 minutes ago, TNHSTI said:
Partsouq but not sure of all the parts needed and part numbers and the dealers won't give me the part numbers
Put the chassis into partsouq and it'll bring up the parts specific for the car
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36 minutes ago, TNHSTI said:
Thanks for that -also anyone know where I can get all the part numbers for all parts needed in a cam belt kit?
Where are you planning on buying a kit from?
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10 hours ago, RepublicRevolt said:
contemplating just selling it on
Why sell it? Because the cambelt info you were given wasn't accurate and it isn't due for 60,0000km.
IMO I think you just drop it and enjoy the car, you liked it enough to buy it and your'e letting a little thing tarnish your whole opinion of the car.
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45 minutes ago, RepublicRevolt said:
However they wont budge saying they just told me what the dealer told them and they have done nothing wrong and that i bought the car 'as is where is' i didn't sign anything stating this or even agree to it verbally.
As you just said they're just going off the dealership told them, so they haven't intentionally lied to you about it.
Also bought 'as is where is' and you haven't signed anything.
Not much of a case unfortunately, just knowledge for the next time.
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2 hours ago, Loren said:
Finding the power wires to the rear lights and splicing wires is too complex... better to hookup a 3D accelerometer and light sensitive diode array to a microprocessor (LOM processor) to detect when you are braking, turning and driving in the dark... then to avoid doing any complex wiring, you need bluetooth activated lights on the trailer... all activated from the one simple LOM processor. You might be able to purchased the whole setup from Jina for 50c.
Some how I feel like you're taking the mickey
If you're not then all good.
Swamp - Locating your wiring is easy, you only need to get one ground (can just be a chassis ground) and then the 12v wire of each light you require. Just use a cheap test light and activate the light to see which wire is the live wire.
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Sent you a PM mate
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I've pm'd you
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1 hour ago, mtbtimr said:
I noticed that I've cracked one of the rear sway bar mounts (somewhat expected from the stiffer sway bar).
Shouldn't really be expected tbh, probably taken a hit or something. Regardless either one of those will do what you need it to
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53 minutes ago, boon said:
Zeus nailed it. Consider going to a Nolathane bush, although they can be a bit squeaky, especially if they dry out.
As a side note, these can be an easier job if the car is on the ground, or at least has the wheels supported.
Nolathane now do greasefree bushes, they're a great improvement on that. Most places should do OE rubber replacements for a fraction of the cost too
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Yeah they're your sway bar D bushes and yeah you can replace them yourself, literally unbolt the saddle and the bush has a slot in them so they just slip off. Measure your sway bar and go to your local repco, supercheap or BNT store, they'll give you the part you need. Looking at the pic there is a '20' on one of the bushes so i'd imagine its a 20mm bar, but always measure them just in case.
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2 hours ago, ginganinja said:
Hey there,
Does anyone have any tips on how to remove suspension bushings? I am replacing all bushings in front lower control arms and the rear trailing arms and subframe/diff etc.
Been attempting with a vice but is it a bit of heat that is needed?
Glad to hear any tips.
Cheers
Which bushes are you stuck on? and whats the car
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I'd probably advise not using a torque wrench as a breaker bar, keep the 2 separate.
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1 hour ago, boon said:
Honestly you're probably better off just changing the springs on the factory struts. Adjusties are a pain in the arse, by the time you consider stuff like the cost of buying them, the cost of a cert, probable increase in insurance costs, and the fact that unless you get really good ones they don't tend to last anywhere near as long as an OEM strut and half the time rebuilding them is a complete crap-shoot.
Totally agree.
Do you have factory bilsteins?
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My mate had a 1996 wrx that was over 230,00km on the stock motor, would have kept going strong except it was stolen and recovered months later as a bare shell.
Depends on how well you take care of the important stuff.
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40 minutes ago, HannesNel said:
Thanks! And by set, I assume you mean 4 pads, 2 for each front wheel, just to clarify.
mmm, I need to drive there so taking sample might be tricky
6 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:Could always just whip one out ahead of time and trace the shape out on a piece of paper.
What he said ^^^^
A set is 4 pads, enough for both left and right sides
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44 minutes ago, HannesNel said:
posting here as well as it seems this gets more eyes
Unexpected maintenance for this weekend - sounds like my pads need to be replaced.
Thinking of doing all 4 wheels at the same time. This will be on the budget for now until I have funds to replace with nicer hubs and pads.
Anyone know of a combo deal floating around where I can buy a full set for all 4 wheels?
According to supercheap these would fit but its labeled trailer pads?
https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/trojan-trojan-trailer-brake-pad-kit---hydraulic-standard-4-piece/339097.html
Go to a BNT $56.15+ a set
Front DB1491
Rear 2 sizes, so maybe take a sample. DB1803CP (111x38x14) or DB1379CP (108x42x14)
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If you're not then all good.
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Who's Online 1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 133 Guests (See full list)
What have you done to your car today?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
What are you doing to it 🤕
Is it lowered, or have a bigger sway bar?