runrabbit

Bravo good Sir.

Turns out it was a spark plug issue. Which solved most of the problems. Though there is still a minor vibration (at a different frequency). Might be transmission related, as its recently developed the 4th and 5th gear whine.

She's off to the shop next week, so hopefully find out for sure.

New tyres, balanced and aligned. Still got a vibration, and actually I think its still lacking power.

Doesn't help one of the leads was loose on the sparkplug. Power restored. Fuel economy looks like its back on track. But vibration is still present. Must be something else. Need some new rear tyres so will look at getting all wheels balanced/rotated.

Ticked over 180,000 on my daily '98 GC8.

My GC8 has developed (for several months now) a minor vibration noticeable both at idle and driving. Its pretty light, but resonates through the gear stick, steering wheel, pedals .. well the whole car really. Its a pain. I think it might be a spark issue due to other issues/symptoms going on, namely; vibration small backfires, but only when engine braking downhill fuel economy dropped faint smell of fuel (noticed by mechanic during last wof) If that all sounds like the same issue, I'm guessing it would be spark plug, lead, or coil pack related. I'll start by inspecting the spark plugs? What is the best way to fault test the other components? If one of the cylinders isn't getting enough/constant spark shouldn't it be running rough, or sound like its on three cylinders??

New spark plugs in. (NGK Platinum - PFR6G 4793). Fun job on a boxer. Managed to do it without removing battery. Also fitted new leather gear boot (92072FC000). Armstrongs quoted $255. But ordered it from Amayama and got it ex-Jap for $100 in less than two week. Apart from its grey, rather than black. Found a split coolant hose while under the hood, so time for another order.

Walbro fuel pump replaced oem.

FYI - I have yellows, and vf22 and only make 200kw. Injectors are at 95% duty and tuner doesn't recommend going any higher. Would love to find a another 20kw if possible.

I would think the switch is just on or off. So the ecu will know if in gear or neutral. Not which gear. Apparently there is a pin in the factory ecu (or so I read). But I'm also running a Link G4.

Anyone know exactly what this does on a manual GC8? One of the wires was busted (not sure for how long). But I ordered a new one and replaced. (part #32008AA103) Doesn't seem to make a difference. Internet gets confusing when pple talk about a Neutral Safety Switch - but this might be for automatics so you don't start in gear.

My mini drama over the last 24hrs. Took car to garage to have 4pots installed and new rotors. Picked up at end of day Friday. Looks good. Drove <1km home. Brakes a little soft but ok. Inspect new brake/rotor look at home. Notice brake fluid in wheel arch and over tyre. Investigate further, brake fluid all over inside of passenger side wheel. Massive leak from hose to caliper connection. Looks like washer wasn't reinstalled. Its still on the old caliper. Too late to take back to garage and closed for the weekend. Custom 4pots paint ruined. New rotor (with black painted centre) ruined. Try to take wheel off. Nuts on too tight as garage used impact gun. Break torque wrench (I know, wrong tool) trying to loosen. Scissor jack then seizes with car off the ground. Its been one of those weekends. .. garage and I will be having interesting phone call on Monday.

Had a dent fixed by paintless dent removal. Came out really good. About 95%, given it was on the wheel arch of the front wheel. Should have done it years ago.

Sad news. My car was parked at auckland airport over those dates too. Super paranoid. This country is going to crap with thieving scum.

I couldn't even get the oil filter off today. 3 different "oil filter wrenches" and a meaty pairs of pliers and all I'm left with is a mangled filter. Tomorrow its screw driver and hammer time!

Yeah, I have done this. From memory - you have to slide a thin screwdrive or similar under the mirror. The backing plate has a small lip that holds the mirror in. (By the end this lip got a little scratched up). Do it very slowly and gently, as the glass will crack or chip if you bend it too much. The glass it attached to the backing plate with double-sided tape. Once you get a good portion of it up, its not to hard to pry the rest away. (I may have even heated the glass and plastic lip with a hair drier to start with ??). Once the glass is out, there is one screw holding the backing plate to the wing mirror assembly. Then it might take a little pull to remove it from the 'ball and socket' joint. It was a while ago, but I think that was about it.

Some goodies arrived.

I have non-sti 98 wrx w/ vf22. iirc biggest in the range at the time. ^spools later ^pulls like crazy

Popped the hood for a look-see and found a split vaccum hose off the manifold. Had to remove the intercooler to trace where it was going. Went under the Idle Control Valve. Hose replaced. Subsequent random idle issue I was having now fixed - go figure. ... also ordered some wheels from Japan.

C'mon auckland. .. unless I'm missing something??

Model: V4 GC8 Displacement: 2L Mods: Link G4, Process West TMIC, 3" TBE, Walbro fuel pump, VF22 Fuel: BP 98 Octane Tuner/dyno: Mark, DTech Dynapack 197kw

Keen for a black one too. Post up when they have them in stock.

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