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SpeedySub

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Posts posted by SpeedySub

  1. 1 hour ago, swamp said:

    What's the changeover? Very interesting, so the main difference would be the two turbs and how they are arranged really with lines and such. And of course slight variances i.e. Coil packs vs coil on plugs etc.

    Im not the best person to ask about those details, theres a few guys on here who have twins who might be able to give you help.

    Search the hose 10 mod as well, that helps with....something or rather, but helps anyway, have a read.

    1 hour ago, swamp said:

    Do you know of the most popular colours? 

    For me its white, black or if you can find one the lemon? yellow ones. I think they are more rare

    or of course Subaru blue

    Z5rN1IP.jpg.f34479dbfd335101270647357166bb56.jpg

    • Like 1
  2. Do you mean the wagon? 

    I don't think there would be too much different about checking one out with the TT system, main thing would be to check both turbos do produce boost and check the change over to the second turbo.

    If you do get one and need any parts I have a nice pair of turbos sitting right behind me now currently being paper weights.  and a few other things I can dig out if you do buy one.

    The good thing is the suspension struts/springs can be directly swapped out of an Impreza , depending on year might just need to swap out the top hat, but not a big deal, can open up more options for aftermarket stuff. 

    I love the look of a nicely done BG5, Im a big wagon fan.

    maxresdefault.thumb.jpg.c9198c8cf0c2649523ea8d8507e31660.jpg

    • Like 2
  3. Yeah hella expensive, with that and with the rear X-force cat back and another set of mufflers that I have already brought it would nearly be half of what I paid for it.

    Fitment should be no problem, as long as you order the right one for MT or AT.

    Would so love these, heart says yes, brain and wallet say hell no.

     

    • Haha 2
  4. That thing looks like an abortion of a car. I saw this when looking for Legacys, its so wrong and should never be sold or shown to the public again, its been up for a while and not sure if it will ever sell, unless the price drops by about $5500

    • Haha 1
  5. 7 minutes ago, Zach said:

    Sorry I should mention that Car is v7 sti. no ignition leads, coil on plug.

    Still check the end of the boot, my wifes car uses coil on plug, there was a small hair line crack in the inner part of the bottom plug/boot. Also with a slightly leaking valve cover leak made it worse as the oil would travel up the crack and make the misfire worse. Get a torch and have a look at it and see if you can spot any cracking, might need to pull another as a reference.

    Once I swapped it out with a new one the car ran sweet.

  6. Did you get new leads as well? if you havent tried swapping the leads I'd try that too, the wifes car had a dodgy boot and was arcing, dropping the cylinder every so often.

    If you still have the old plugs check any for signs of arcing along the porcelain section. 

  7. If it slips now, it will always slip unless you replace the 1/3 bands. Metal filings is a really bad sign, the damage is done, get a replacement gearbox, paid for by the mechanic as he put the wrong oil in it and caused the damage. 

    It may work ok for a month or two, but then it will be too late as they can claim you did additional damage in those months.

     

    • Like 1
  8. 1 hour ago, calebwrx said:

    Best results will come from a Dyno tune. Your concern about "one blast" isn't really correct as most reputable places that tune street cars will spend heaps of time tuning low/mid load areas to make the car feel good under normal driving conditions, and only then will they move onto power runs and high load tuning. A reputable tuner will factor in safety margins for real world ambient temps and humidity levels if they can't be simulated on the dyno.

     

    Headers can get you some extra gains from any tune as the factory ones are highly restrictive, but are apparently only worth it if you free up the rest of the exhaust system as well, which makes sense. 

    This is spot on. 

    A proper dyno tune will build up the required parameters as they go through many pulls on the dyno. If the guys have been tuning these engines for a while then they know what works as a good base then tune to your cars preferences. 

    Have a look at HP Acadamy or even Scotty from Haltech when he tunes on Mighty Car Mods on youtube.

     

    I would start at the 3rd cat (y section) back first before spending money on headers as said above are restrictive but so is the rest of the system. 

    My 3.0 outback is running a 2.5inch to 2.25 to straight through mufflers - xforce system, and it helps get the system breathing better, definitely noticeable. 

    Check out @gotasuby , he has a couple of build pages and knows his Subarus.

  9. On 18/01/2020 at 2:27 PM, RaKid said:

    You should also swap your turbo to the appropriately matched STI variant (likely a vf28) and run an STI intercooler.

    This, ECU will be trying to control the wrong sized turbo. The TDO4 is small compared to a VF28 type turbo.

  10. Only thing I could think of is that the lock up is now working and when you need it it actually works. 

    I know mine drops about 500rpm when the convertor locks up, and you may not notice it until you push the accelerator and then it unlocks and slips again giving you the extra rpm.

    If the oil was very contaminated then it may affect the lock up clutch.

    What city are you in? it might be an idea to talk to a specialist auto trans place. 

    Im only going off my basic knowledge and experience. 

    • Like 1
  11. When you say you get another 500rpm, do you mean the revs drop by that and you can accelerate again till it reaches the same rpm as before the drop?

    If so then that should be the torque converter locking up, giving a more 1:1 ratio into the transmission. Usually happens in the higher gears. 

     

     

  12. 6 hours ago, calebwrx said:

    Following! Interested in headers and removing cats to improve flow, leaving the rest of the system stock to keep stock noise levels.

    I think you might have to have cats for WOF. 

    High flow cats are not very restrictive, and the rest of the stock system is quite restrictive. 

    Personally I don't think you would get much gain power wise with stock rear section and wouldn't be worth the money.

    Start with the midsection back, if you are wanting quiet but better flowing you might be better off finding a set of offset mufflers (quieter) and getting a muffler shop to fab up the rest. That way you get a better flowing exhaust and keep the noise level to your liking. Then you can save up for the headers.

     

     

  13. 16 minutes ago, NTYCME said:

    Notice much difference?

    He's out of stock until at least April now, wonder if there's somewhere else I could get them from

    Let me know if you find somewhere else. Im ok with waiting till April for them, but always interested in good alternatives. Ive seen a couple on ebay, but have no idea of quality.

    Also Im running an Xforce system from the Y pipe back, that sounds really good, even with the stock headers, woill sound so much better with headers and high flow cats.

    The Skid Factory on YT have a vid where Al shows the inside of the stock headers, more restrictive then they look from the outside.

    • Like 1
  14. 2 minutes ago, Niran said:

     

    What time frame works for you? Could always ask James if you could pay when they arrive maybe. 

    I don't exactly have a time frame yet, I am awaiting some money, but its tied up with lawyers at the moment, so can't guarantee when I'll have it. 

    Would also want cash in hand before ordering, don't want to leave anyone in the lurch if anything gets delayed again.

     

    • Like 1
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