gotasuby

Remove the boot carpet the day before to speed up process

Will find out cost as in production at the moment

You can get the plates for 700 dollars each side. And have to prove to subaru that up own a s401 or s402. Hard work I know. Just get adaptors. We making some at the moment perfect for what you want.

If possible next time unplug injector on the cyl that are not running to stop bore wash. Otherwise yes you can damage the cyl surface

Good road tune is far superior to an e tune as anyone who is any good at road tunes will have seperate knock listening gear and a seperate wideband which will give more info to tuner and can rectify issues quicker should they arise.

Buy a new v7 sti shorty. Best value for money

Oh no. SST transmission. They are terrible. Copy of dsg that cut lots of corners. Same trans as Ford focus

A vf25 is primary auto bh model, a vf26 is primary bh manual model. And vf27 is secondary turbo. And a vf32 is more than capable being exchanged with vf27 but a vf25 or 26 will not bolt on secondary side

A vf32 will work fine as a secondary? Why they say it won't work? What problems does your car have.

Vf33 is only rev d primary. It's bigger inlet and outlet. Vf32 is secondary. You need a 31 and 32. Well you could use any secondary apart from a vf14 would bolt on. Secondary turbos don't usually fail only primary ones

After a drive with using the brakes very much are any of the brakes hot?

I'm not 100 percent sure as I live in the south island where there is only bp 98. I have been told by multiple people that Mobil is ethanol blended

Mobil 98 has ethanol in it which should help lower combustion Temps. It will run a tiny bit leaner but nothing to worry about if tune is good. Mobil 98 should cause no issues

Factory maps are meant to be around 18psi and drop to 13.5 so yours is round the mark.

Eagle rods in both. Arp head bolts in both. Standard ones. Did 30000km in the 2.5 with 33psi road only. The 28psi one has done a season of rally and a year of drags plus daily street duty.

We have done a few up to 33psi. 28psi is only one still going at the moment. Making 350wkw. Not much done to engine in the scheme of things. Forged Pistons, rods, head studs, cams and a light polish. The 33psi one was my old car. Snapped a forged rod. Never put on the dyno so don't know power. Was a few years ago. Would light up all 4 wheels in 4th Round ruapuna corners though, but triangle tyres prob didn't help.

We can do either way. We are more than happy to do touch up work or full tunes. Obviously you have tuned yours so would be silly to do a whole tune again. Have you got a power figure out of yours? Or only been road tuning?

V11 sti. Only mods are 3 port boost solinoid, 3" exhaust and fuel pump. Ran out of injectors. Running 20psi tapering up top. Red is before and grey after.

Factory ecu. Before it was tuned the boost was only low and then creeped. We but a 3 port mac valve on it and tuned the boost control. All on 95 fuel to.

A 3.0r without opening the motor you will struggle to get more than 185wkw. That's with full exhaust, intake, fueling upgrades and ethanol. 2.0 turbo will make that with a downpipe, and tune nearly.

It's only their family car so not after much more. It's good fun in first haha

Boost is 17psi. No plot. Out of fuel. Only 440cc blues

2006 forester. 2.5l stock everything apart from exhaust and td05-16 along with Mac 3 port boost solenoid. Red is before as factory ecu was having mare and boost creep.

Remember this is not 98 and is running ethanol. I would say 15-20kw at a guess. Had a gtr on dyno on weekend that was 475hp in rwd with fuse out and 435hp in awd if that's an example?

No I don't sorry. Only the 20g above but I wouldn't expect too much difference apart from slightly faster spool and slightly less power