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IZichard

2019 Mod
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Everything posted by IZichard

  1. Can't comment on that one sorry, I've never driven a DCCD box before. Maybe @GC8E2DD or @YoungOne could shed some light.
  2. Good luck on the search! They won’t be getting cheaper anytime soon, especially with the Americans/Aussies getting more rights to import them. This may be of use to you as it can tell you the specifics of each version, it’s weight, options, colours and which turbo, engine and transmission it was fitted with. https://www.type-ra.com/impreza-timeline/
  3. Personally I have always felt that the interior in the v4,5,6 is a huge improvement over the older cars. I also think they have a better looking front end with the updated scoop/grills on the bonnet. The engine layout is also more similar to the more modern wrx/stis with the turbo inlet pipe running under the intake manifold. That is just my opinion. Mostly it is just personal preference between the versions as it is fundementally the same chassis with minor revisions. Be careful when buying to check for developing rust around the front/rear windscreen, the boot and around the rear wheel arch area. Many of the imports have come front rusty areas of japan and can be vunerable in these areas. Are you buying it to drive it and put ks on it or as more of a weekend/collector? There are heaps of different options (ra, v-limited, 555) if you want something a little more ‘special.’
  4. Welcome to the forum! Is it a bugeye? I’ve heard of unmodified bugeye wrxs comfortably doing 300k it really depends on the previous owners. If it is warmed up, run on the correct fuel, serviced regularly and not thrashed at every traffic light the ej205 turbo is reliable. There are a few small maintainable items that Subaru’s require over time but they really don’t ‘break down’ often in stock form. (Rocker cover gaskets, timing belts etc) If there are signs it has been previously modified poorly, (ie. boost tap, podfilter) then I would steer clear. If like you said the previous owners had it for 4 and 5 years and they have service history then I would say it is a fairly safe buy. Always worth getting it checked over by a Subaru specialist mechanic before buying if you don’t know what to look for yourself. Good luck!
  5. I’ve also considered getting one. Just to defrost the car in winter without having to go outside. Also means you can have the car warming up in the driveway without the risk of someone getting in and driving away with it.
  6. There aren’t many new Subaru owners on this forum unfortunately, so I doubt you will find anyone who has. You are probably best taking it back to the dealer since it will most likely be under warranty for that type of issue. If if you want to investigate yourself then I would start by checking the fuses if it shows no sign of getting power. Best of luck with it
  7. https://i.stuff.co.nz/national/crime/108815051/gone-in-60-seconds-gang-of-car-thieves-steal-classic-cars?cid=facebook.ad Looks like this vehicle was found recently, was also being used to commit other crimes. 😒
  8. I swear I saw you rip a cheeky handbrake on turn in at one point!
  9. Do you have the sheet with all the times from the grasskhana @Joker? I’m curious what the times from individual runs turned out to be. Also to add to Jokers previous post... Cam won the Grasskhana and the Kelford Cams voucher. And I came 3rd (or maybe second?) and scored a whiteline voucher 😁
  10. Here is a link to an small album I made to show the difference in quality between GMB and genuine subaru water pumps. The impeller design is less efficient on the GMB and the overall casting quality is much worse. I alway go with genuine timing gear. https://imgur.com/a/RQFuIu2
  11. It is called an Anti Lift Kit for a reason 😉 Edit: “Whiteline Anti Lift Kits are primarily designed to improve traction and cornering grip under power. By increasing static caster and improving front end geometry the new alloy mounts coupled with low compliance synthetic elastomer bushings serve to dramatically sharpen initial turn-in response and reduce understeer.”
  12. In the kit there is supposed to be a series of spacers that moves that U brace down and allows clearance. Maybe you were given the kit for a GC/GF that wouldn’t include the spacers. You can see one of the spacers on the left of this picture, there are supposed to be 6 or 8 in total.
  13. The torque spec for the big nut is fairly high iirc. Should say in the ALK box what the recommended torque is. If you have a helper available you should get them to bounce the car while you listen underneath. Then at least you can be sure which point is the source of the noise.
  14. You should only need to do the front bush if you already did the ALK. Drive the car up onto some blocks, crack the two front bolts loose. Then bounce the front of the car up and down a couple times and re-tighten, should be sweet.
  15. Did you tighten the lower control arm bolts when the car was at normal ride height? If you didn't I would say that the small front bush in the LCA is likely the cause of the squeak. If you torque it while the wheels are hanging the bush will be under tension when LCA moves back to ride height.
  16. I was mainly just using the Wadsworth constant. I didn't get a short shifter or anything, just the harder shift linkage bushes to replace my very worn out bushes.
  17. I purchased one that had been welded just with a couple of tacks on the swing arm at the top. That one was easily saved. When it has been welded around the flapper at the bottom I personally don’t think it could be removed easily. You would probably be better off getting an unmodified turbo.
  18. I saw they were at maccas and skipped the first 4 minutes yet I still left with the same feeling haha. I am also on the hunt for a short shifter for the 6-speed that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. I purchased some shift bushes from Corgiwerx recently, I haven’t put the gearbox back in yet to try them out but the guy is super helpful and easy to deal with.
  19. Yeah sometimes you just reach that point where nothing seems like it’s working, you’ve been at it for way longer than you expected. Then you smash you knuckles on a sharp bit, they start bleeding everywhere and you feel at rock bottom. There is a great sense of satisfaction that comes from knowing that your blood, sweat and tears are why the car looks/drives the way it does, but in the moment it sometimes doesn’t feel like it is worth it.
  20. The ALK moves the rear mount point of the LCA so it is definitely a lot more difficult to get the bolts to line up than the factory setup. I'm guessing the beefier front bush is making your life harder. The subframe being bent seems the most unlikely situation so i'm just going to assume it isn't. Try it in this order, put the front inner bolt on the LCA half in (not all the way through the subframe). Then lean on the LCA hard with a bar so you can line up and get the two bolts for the ALK in (keep the big nut on the ALK loose to make this easier). Then you will have to get the front LCA bolt the rest of the way through the other side of the subframe, this will probably also require some kind of hard leaning with a bar on the LCA or the bolt and some light taps with a hammer (soft blow). If it fit with the stock arm then it will fit with the ALK too, it will probably just take a bunch of effort to line it up. If you think the subframe is bent you could try the other side first.
  21. Yeah that isn't a thing. https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf End of page 9 and start of page 10.
  22. How long would it take to drive from city centre-ish to there? I see it is a wee way out of the city Not sure if i'm going to try and make this or have a normal amount of sleep since I'm not getting out on the track.
  23. Basically what @calebwrx said you need the little cone piece. I called it 😛 Yeah that shorter front LCA bush is for the earlier models. I have slowly learned to double and triple check parts since things are always wrong
  24. I have one but it is at work. I could check it tomorrow if needed, but they aren’t connected to anything and my car has always worked fine so I don’t think they are particularly important. My guess is some test/flash wire for the Subaru factory. They were taped up out of the way inside the factory loom tape.
  25. Is there a second black plug dangling under there? I’m guessing it is the other half of the black ecu reset plug. Edit: Just checked on my v6, the two black wires were tied up with factory tape. I pulled them out so you can see. They have pins on them but they aren’t the normal, diagnostic/reset plug wires so I’m not sure their exact purpose. Not supposed to connect to anything by the looks of it though.
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