IZichard

Maybe? I’ve never tried one like that before. The part that makes it tricky is that it is surrounded on three sides by the subframe so there isn’t much room. The tube type tool works well. When I did my swap I drove around for about a week with the wagon rack ends while I waited for the sedan ones in the mail, I just took it really easy. So you could drive the 25 mins if you had to.

Kinda hard to describe ‘how tight’ in text If you don’t have the right tools you could do everything else, keep you existing rack ends. Then wind the toe to pretty close on you original rack ends. Drive to the alignment place and get them to fit the rack ends before they do the alignment. Assuming the alignment place isn’t too far from your house.

Technically loctite isn’t necessary if the locking washer is used correctly. (No loctite is used at the Subaru factory) I’m sure you will get opinions both for and against using it from different people, so up to you really. As long as it is nice and tight and the washer is bent over, it should be fine.

Nice! Any plans? They are such a good value for what they are right now.

@Subirex Automotive

At least in the North you have other options for 98 (Mobil/Gull). This is the first time anyone other than BP has offered that in the South.

Hard to say, maybe a slight bit in 4th/5th may just be in my head though. I don't think my GC8 runs particularly aggressive ignition timing. Tbh i'm just sick of BP haha. Also seems to be permanent 12c off per litre at the one on Moorhouse? Not sure why. I talked to Richard at SAS about it and he said they had tuned a few cars on it and it is great stuff.

Nice write up! I'd also add amayama.com to that. Similar to partsouq but has has an even larger selection of parts. So if you find something you really need on partsouq but they don't have it available paste the partnumber into amayama and they will almost always have it. It is a bit more expensive than partsouq so I tend to only use it as a backup for partsouq. It is usually still cheaper than Subaru NZ for odd ball stuff.

Drove up to Christchurch in the GC8 to deliver the 6-speed out of my wagon to SAS. It is in for a full set of new synchros as the 5th gear synchro was on its way out. I can't wait to get it back all nice again. Also fill up on a bunch of 100 octane from npd

I've always used a specific tool. Might be possible without one but frankly I haven't tried. Side note, aftermarket rack ends are often the incorrect parts so probably worth checking the length is right before starting the job and finding out the parts are wrong. It is a good idea to use new washers but as already mentioned you will get new ones with the rack ends you purchase. Rack boots really depends on the condition of you current ones, they tend to perish then crack/split over time with age. It is a good time to replace them though since you are going to take them off anyway. You definitely don't need to remove the subframe, unless you mean the U-brace piece which you will have to remove for the ALK anyway. If you have some blocks or ramps then you could lower the car onto its wheels on the blocks to tighten the LCA bolts. Might make it a bit easier. You can align the front toe fairly close by eye, just set the steering wheel straight then look with one eye down the front wheel to the back wheel which should make it fairly easy to see which way you need to wind the inner rack end to get the wheel straight. Then you should probably drive it straight to the wheel alignment afterwards.

Don’t forget to factor in the opportunity cost, his time has value too. 😉

Ahh interesting, I'll have to be careful with my one then. Glad you were able to repair it. If there is a lot of stress on the solder joints in normal use then you could reinforce it with a couple blobs of hot glue or similar on either side of the socket. It is pretty common for OEMs to do this for heavier components on PCBs.

Been shoving that USB in a little too hard I see. Looks repairable, did it break the solder or the pins? Soldering it back on wouldn't be too bad with and iron and a steady hand. If the pins are broken you will probably have to put on a new connector or maybe bridge it with a short length of wire. Make sure you use a temperature adjustable iron or a low wattage one as it would be super easy to overheat and lift pads that size. This may be of use to you. https://nz.rs-online.com/web/c/connectors/usb-d-sub-computing-connectors/mini-usb-connectors/

Agreed except for the tools. Nothing wrong with their tools for the most part and they typically have a lifetime warranty.

No problem, just pm me if you need to borrow it. Yeah that sounds like me, I have a little sticker at the bottom of the windscreen. Yeah it is kinda annoying to have to drive so far but it is better then the engine knocking. I wish they would open an npd with 100 at 3 parks.

Yeah the choices are either go to Cromwell for BP98 or to Queenstown for npd100. I have a tactrix in Wanaka that you can borrow if you just want to pull your ROM. I have two 20L cans that I take to Cromwell every couple of weeks. I can usually get around 95L if I time it well and get a full tank. Keeps both of my cars going for a while.

Yeah I used the same adapter scratch linked to get the steering wheel controls going in my sisters Mazda. Worked a treat.

Yeah I’ll be staying with my sister. Thanks for the offer though!

Not from Wellington but may be able to join in on this. I'm planning on staying in Wellington City on Friday night and making the drive up on Saturday morning. Don't curse it with that talk of issues on the way up!

I've found that Partsouq often doesn't have the belts or the water pumps in stock. @keeweechris If you can get trade price the genuine timing and water pump kits are a pretty good price from a Subaru dealer. Off the top of my head it is $395 for Timing kit $99 for Water pump, gasket, thermostat and seal

A straight pipe is illegal even if it is under the DB level. From the VIRM: Reasons for rejection: 1. A vehicle is not fitted with an exhaust system that includes a means of sound reduction (Note 1) (Note 6). .... Note 1: Exhaust system means a pipe assembly through which the engine exhaust gases pass to the atmosphere and includes some means of sound reduction such as a silencer or resonator. Note 6: (external wastgate stuff) https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/exhaust/exhaust-system A stock 05 STi is a tidy car, a turbo back straight pipe would be one hell of a way to change that. Just my 2c.

There is a self service truck stop in the industrial area which is cheaper so it’s not all bad. But The main stations are a joke. Interested to see how 100 octane goes with continued use.

That is so cheap! Even less than 91 in Wanaka haha.

Today I cleaned up the headlights on the wagon and sealed them so hopefully it actually lasts a while before going yellow again. It was really hard to photograph with the cloud and reflections.

Batbaruman Private Investigator. 🕵🏽 Solving Subaru related thefts all across Gotham City. New comic book coming soon lol. @ginganinja I had had a similar deal with a vf30 happen to me on trademe, filed a dispute but trademe aren't very helpful. They removed the guy's account but basically said you will have to take him to court to go any further. I'm all for justice but it wasn't really worth my time to try and pursue the case. I sold the turbo cheap to a guy that wanted bits off it and just accepted my loss. I hope you have a better experience than me.