pl0x

I was thinking along similar lines, and that it had all the ingredients to have a long lasting engine, until I read the E-tune part.

Are H6 6sp's rear diffs actually 3.9? I thought they were 3.54 as the center diff has a 1:1.1 transfer.

If that cheap 7163 is gone or doesn't suit, I'd go G660 https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2875826&page=2

Have you cleaned up inside face of the turbine housing? One of my garrett's turbine housings i had to give the turbine housing a light sand as it was too rusty to get back together.

Bugger, but yea not much good if in worst case it won't start it. If you can get a refund I'd be tempted to try a Repco one with the capacitor. Side note, what ampage cables does everyone have? Generally the jumper cables I've had are too s*** to start drained battery without leaving them connected for a while, but borrowed ones from a workshop and it fires first pop. I'm very sceptical about $20 "1000a" trademe ones when Repco 750a ones are ~$130

Just looked up which ones I've got: PBJS12000-RD - POWERALL JUMPSTARTER POWERBANK 400A 12000MAH 12V PBJS16000-WS - POWERALL JUMPSTARTER POWERBANK 600A 16000MAH 12V WITH SPEAKER (been replaced under warranty as it stopped accepting charge) REPCO ULTRA CAPACITOR JUMPSTARTER 12V 1200A As mentioned, repco one seems the best at holding charge, although it is the newest. I generally go to start the car, find 2 or 3 are flat and end up waiting 15min for the capacitor to charge or get jumper leads. Admittedly most of the time i'm trying to start an old v8 bmw which keeps draining it's battery.

I've got 3 of these smaller jump starters, different brands etc. TBH none of them are as good as a battery and decent jumper leads. Every time I go to use they seem to be out of juice, just from sitting in vehicles with no use. One is a Repco one with a capacitor & it seems to be the best, if the battery isn't super flat it'll jump a vehicle at least once. But otherwise you have to wait 10-15min for the capacitor to charge, once that's charged it seems to start every time. Maybe I've had a bad run but they seem kind of pointless if you have to charge them all the time.

Need more details. Wasted spark? Id guess it would be ignition wiring

Cheers! I stripped all the avcs wiring from the factory loom last night and found that, then another link diagram with 12v gnd & sig so bit of contradiction in links wiring manual/diagrams. I also noted these (intake only) aren't shielded in the factory wiring loom, although link's diagram suggests they should be. I'll assume subaru knew what they were doing and leave them unshielded.

Got my long block fully back together and timed last night. Need to merge the avcs wiring into my engine loom and run some wires to the link. FYI for anyone interested - BP/BL dual avcs and V11 dual avcs aren't exactly the same. Few differences I've noted where parts don't cross over: Driver side exhaust cam sensor bolt hole spacing (bit rough but can drill out the bp/bl sensor so it's slotted) bp/bl intake cam sensors are 3 wire (link wiring suggests you just join 2 of the wires into sensor ground, assume factory has a ground and a separate sensor ground?) Newer model heads have secondary air pump ports on the back. (Need to block them with the sensors, blanking plate or tap and put a blank bolt/plug in) Driver side oil feed lines are supplied from a different point (both heads have both gallery bungs so can just switch them around)

Picked up my refreshed v11 sti heads last night and started assembling the long block, got heads on and cams in but left cam shaft seals off the partsouq order list 😑 Hopefully some seals turn up tomorrow so I can put it together on the weekend. Also ordered a 0.82 single scroll turbine housing to test against my twin scroll set up and if my car is having similar issues to Lorens

Na, doubt it'll make any difference.

Should be able to see it in the graph somewhat, although won't know it's the housing without back pressure data What's the boost now? Your's spooled earlier and had more torque than mine either way so different, but still interesting results considering a in theory larger twin scroll genuine Garrett housing.

Glad to hear. Do you know if it's still choked slightly with the 0.63? I'm tossing up if I should try a SS .63 or .82 housing, save me getting the waste gate divide made too.

Maybe it was more like this, can't quite remember but made it work with one clamp and a cut belt

I put an cut old belt around them and the crank, clamped/vice gripped the belt together around the crank so nothing could turn

I got high temp white 4 pot subaru decals off ebay, assume those would be on there too

Interesting, the Honeywell ones I've got and seen are all 5v supply & 0.5-4.5v output. Yea, makes sense. Voltage drops are a pain.

Looks mint! but 12v to pressure sensors? I'd also think about an additional relay for injectors and coil, then you know the injectors are at the same voltage as the ecu is seeing

Bugger, as I had planned on testing a SS one also. What's the difference? vband outlet length or slightly offset?

Agree'd but possibly these TS turbine housings are just too restrictive on Subaru engines. Maybe there is a reason efr are T4 twin scroll. I think the spool is about right considering you've gone up a size or two in turbine housing (from what I've read 1.01 TS is roughly equivalent to 0.9 SS). Would be interesting, maybe one bank has higher pressure from one of the "scrolls" being too restrictive.

As I was pulling my engine apart I spotted mine wasn't divided the whole way when it was made. Figured it would be effectively the same spool up losses to SS. Didn't think it would be any worse than SS anyway. Have you heard/seen/read otherwise? I'm thinking the same.

So only thing changed are headers (to twin scroll legacy headers?) and turbine housing? More boost, less power definitely seems like more restriction. Sounds similar to mine, dyno looks about the same too except mines even more choked up top (0.91 TS). Maybe I should switch to a 0.83 SS housing to test.

Legacy 6sp (and v11 onwards) don't have speedo drive outputs Mates got one from a ez30 6sp with diff, driveshaft, axles and shifter sitting on trademe for $1400, and has been for a long time, crazy cheap imo. I'd guess most people don't want the hassle of no speedo drive from the box (I don't think thats an issue for other bp/bl legacys though).

Be interested to see these results, and how it's going to be tested. Size has a large effect on flow & pressure drop Agreed. ITL are good & cheap cores imo