mitch8198

Have sourced a v7 sti 6 speed gearbox, cross member and clutch fork as an upgrade for my 96 wrx. Going to use the 5sp clutch, starter and flywheel. (box syncros are gone and its leaky) Trying to find a 3.9 r160 rear diff to replace the 4.44 version which is in the car. The seller has a 3.9 plate-type LSD from a gen4 legacy H6. Is the spline compatible with my existing axles? Anyone know any other compatible 3.9 LSD r160's? (preferably mechanical without going to an expensive v2 sti RA diff) Cheers

Yep cam profiles will be different and 205 probably has higher compression but it would run. Definitely not perfect and would recommend not using the V3 STi 6S ecu because timing, boost and rpm limits would likely be too aggressive for the poor old wrx engine. So the answer really depends on how dogey you want to be. I used to race my wrx using a 97 forester ecu (normally a td04 & grey injectors) running a 93 RA engine, yellow injectors and a VF30 and it worked fine but that's a bit risky for most people

kind of; AFAIK the only external differences between Phase1 (ej20k) and Phase2 (ej205) the crank & cam trigger patterns and the intake manifold bolt pattern. 1. Take the toothed cambelt pulley's from the crank and top LH cam on your old EJ20k, this will fool the V3 ecu into thinking it's running the older engine. 2. Use as many sensors from the old manifold as possible on the new one. Unsure whether the throttle position sensor or idle control valve are cross-compatible due to the different throttle design on the newer engines. Could also just swap the shortblock (if you've spun a bearing), use all your old sensors and happy days.

only able to go off what i've seen online which is quite a few years old now. The workmanship is amazing, just was surprised the ez30 seemed to take the insane power with stock cams, stock sleeves and no porting at the time, all of which are usually considered when building an EJ for that sort of power. PM sent

Been considering this also (with turbo) and doing a load of research for my GF8 before i commit to forging the 2L RA block that is in it. Parents have had an H6 legacy for years and its still going after 350,000kms of abuse. forcefed made 412kw with an EZ30r on 98 at only 20psi with what seemed like a very mild build for the power. (just pistons, rods, valve springs, retainers, injectors, Link G4). So they're definately a capable unit, the supertech parts are expensive, but so is a 400+kw capable EJ engine.... Took the idea a step further today and picked up a blown EZ30r for "research purposes". Would be doing the manifolds, wiring, engine build etc myself so want to know exactly what im getting into.

Such nice cars! I picked a BP5 spec B up as a daily and yeah had the same reaction, so much instant twinscroll torque. At normal speeds it feels so much faster than my 180wkw wrx. The thing handles well, tows stuff, cruises effortlessly, has heated seats, 10 speaker audio and gets ~9L/100km. Not much to complain about!

Who do you use to get parts in from Japan? It's crazy how expensive everything is here compared to Japan.

I dont know if its actually a better option haha, adaptors just seemed the easiest at the time. Ive heard you can mix and match P2 yellows and fuel rails and somehow bolt them on a P1 mani but these are a cheaper unit, better spray pattern and 5+ years newer. I assume 04+ STi ej25 sidefeeds would work also.

Thanks, happy to supply the CAD files to anyone that want to make a set Having V1-4 heads really limits your options for cheap injectors above 440cc. Diddint want to spend 1k+ for a topfeed conversion or get dogey knock-offs.

Used the CNC at uni to make fuel rail adaptors for putting phase 2 injectors on a phase 1 manifold. Installed some BP legacy 550cc sidefeeds & rails i got for $30 off trademe. Turned out pretty good.

Just completed this in my new SpecB daily last week, works great. thanks for posting. A double din unit even bolts onto the factory rails, just had to cut the oem fascia up and slide it in. Here's the wire colours incase others don't want to open up the McIntosh unit. Excuse my student level handwriting

sounds like an awesome car, will be a weapon when done The Link G4+ ecu will be hands down the best upgrade for your car, with a good tune youll get better fuel economy, idle control, cold start, more stable boost control etc etc. You wont be able to make much more than 190kw on the stock 440cc injectors, I've gone to set 565cc sidefeeds out of a BP legacy (cost me $30 lol) which should give a you bit more headroom or decap. Fuel pump is recommended for safety but not essential, get a Walbro 255, theyre cheapish and work really well. The VF28 turbo will be turning into a hairdryer above 200kw so as others said youll need a bigger top mount or a front mount to keep the air cool enough. You probably make 210kw+ on stock turbo & internal wastegate but a quality 38mm one will keep the boost stable. Stock bov is fine. With the stock motor and turbo I wouldnt go much over 220wkw so youre not stressing either part too much. then if desired in the future, forge the motor, get a big turbo and go for 280+.

Hey mate, look at page WI-68 (wrx) or WI-79(n/a) of the service manual I PM'd you the other day. that gives you the pinout of the speed sensor and how to connect it to the cluster. WI-69 shows the pinout and connections of the inhibitor switch and starter interlock. I've historically left the auto ecu in and just jumped the TCU to park at the trans end of the connectors, not sure how well it works in the newer cars.

the fronts are the same in the 1st gen imprezas so id assume its the same for bugeye's aswell. The rear axles sometimes need different inner splines depending on which type of LSD rear diff you get. Ive done a couple auto->manual conversions, fairly straightforward, remember to jump the trans plugs so it's hotwired to park and leave the auto computer plugged in so your ABS will work.

pretty much (93 ra engine with 440cc injectors maxed out) but yes its very lazy atm, just saying that you're not the only one having spool issues on a vf30..... Mine could also be due to the tuner having to do the top end from only ~4 power runs as the viscous centre started to disagree with his dyno (front/back axle speeds were all over the place). Credit to Keith Stewart though, car drives amazing and afr's are spot on even with sub-optimal tuning conditions.