Durty-Sanchez

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About Durty-Sanchez

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  1. Mine did this when the water pump went (if that helps). Would overheat at idle but you could drive it and it'd cool back down to normal again. Could be worth looking at, cambelt/pump is marginally cheaper than head gaskets!
  2. Another quick question... how compatible are GC8 struts with the BD5? I read that the front's are a match but the rear GC8's are shorter and would cause the Legacy to sit lower in the rear. However, using the part number site posted above the part numbers for the rear struts are very similar between the two chassis and have a common interchangeable part number: BD5: 20362AC300 GC8: 20360FA242 KYB BD5 replacement: 334115 KYB GC8 replacement: 334109 = also interchangeable with the BD5 20362AC300 Confusing af I'm sure most people think the same when they see the state of it
  3. Amazing, thanks mate
  4. Thanks for the links I'll take a look shortly. Probably after new shocks tbh but might consider a used set if it works out better. Cheers, DS
  5. Hey, Currently running KYB shocks (unknown model) and am looking to replace or upgrade if possible. KYB haven't seen me wrong so interested in either: Part numbers for the OEM replacement strut/shocks Part numbers for the AGX variant strut/shocks so I can try to source these offshore Or... any recommendations for strut/shock replacement options Any good suppliers for any of the above Details are: BD5A TT Legacy RS, high KM's and standard springs/suspension. Daily motorway driver but am looking for improvements with open road / uphill / downhill Rimutaka performance. Any help is much appreciated! Thanks, DS
  6. Unfortunately cars of our generation are starting to foster a few electrical gremlins so this may not be the easiest thing to track down. Having had something similar go wrong here\'s some suggested bug-hunting steps. Firstly though it\'s worth noting that your climate display will flash on for a split second when you switch the ignition off. This seems to be some kind reverse voltage or delay between the logic circuits losing power and the cut-off minimum power for the illumination components (mine does it too). In any case, this may indicate that your unit is ok and it\'s just not getting the ON signal it needs to fire up. So... 1. Fuses all ok (done) 2. Does the cabin power work? e.g. stereo, ciggy lighter, etc. 3. Do you have cabin ON power? My ignition barrel plays up and I have no climate/stereo/wipers from tiem to time 4. Does the unit have ON power? It will most likely have a permanent battery supply for memory, etc. but it will also get a ON supply from the cabin/ignition circuit in order to operate normally. Check for good grounds at the same time. 5. Swap the unit - they go from 30-50 on trademe. I did this; it didn\'t fix my problem but it was a necessary step. I had missed something in step 4... 6. Sell the car. ;D To be honest either it\'s going to be a power/grounding issue or the unit is poked. The steps above only help you to isolate exactly where the problem might be with minimal effort. If you get to step 6 and the new unit hasn\'t fixed it then chances are you\'ve missed something at step 4 or you bought a dud climate unit. g\'luck!
  7. When you say a jumper you mean one with resistance, right? Otherwise you might be shorting out some of the ECU circuits
  8. CEL codes? They will tell you if anything is unplugged and/or missing.
  9. Does it still have the factory BOV?? If it seems to run fine off boost then there\'s no significant amount of metered air leaking out so as Marky said, your skank-whistle is sounding a bit suspect.
  10. Wastegate pressure is ~7psi but with a working factory boost solenoid AND restrictor-pill it\'s around 14psi. I have chips if you\'re interested. It needs to be a first-gen TT though ~93-95, EJ20H engine, R6/7C ECU (there\'s another too but I forget the code - T9 maybe?). Wait until you\'ve sorted your current problem out first tho.
  11. Put a resistor between the wires (100ohm might do?). Make sure you block off the line (23) that goes to it usually. That way your primary will just run stock wastegate pressure rather than free-boosting
  12. Things that have caused my miss-firing: - Plugs gapped incorrectly. 0.8mm ftw - Coils got old. New coils are pricey but make a huge difference (expect a few years out of a set tho) - Fuel pump. The factory one will be giving you grief if you haven\'t replaced it already - Fuel pump wiring. The factory wiring seems to build up heaps of resistance, limiting the current draw by the pump. New power supply/relay did the trick - AFM (this was more a cut-out rather than a missfire). Resoldered cracked connections. There\'ll probably be CEL\'s if it\'s this. Misc other ignition issues & fixes: - Knock-sensor didn\'t cause missfires but did put it in to limp mode. You\'ll get a CEL for this. - Oxygen sensor. Probably getting old but shouldn\'t cause missfire under load (ECU ignores it). It might explain your high gas consumption though - Cam sensor gave me starting/idling grief, no missfires (ECU doesn\'t use it for firing, only syncing at startup and idle) My order of debugging would be: 1. Regap those plugs! 2. Check ECU for codes - fix as required 3. Reset ECU (battery off over night) 4. Check resistance on fuel pump circuit - fix as required 5. Replace stuff! Your choice if you go in order of cheapness or likelihood of being at fault (i\'d go fuel pump, coils, knock sensor, oxygen, afm) G\'luck (edit to categorise stuff)
  13. The primary wastegate vac line is fed directly from the primary compressor housing. Somewhere on that vac line will be a t-junction that runs off to the boost-control solenoid (the thing that\'s gone wrong) in the passenger side guard. The return line from this solenoid goes in to the primary air intake before it reaches the primary compressor. The way it works is that your primary turbo produces pressure, which is fed directly to the wastegate and activates it when wastegate pressure is reached. The boost-control solenoid "vents" some pressure away and so delays how soon the wastegate is activated. In this situation the solenoid is venting pressurised air through itself and back in to the intake system (which will always be in vacuum) so all metered air remains in the system. So anyway, either the solenoid in the guard is poked or its lost connection to the ECU. As mentioned, check for loose connections and failing that replace the solenoid.
  14. Don\'t rebuild for the hell of it. Use your money to either do the single conversion now OR save it to cover the rebuild if/when your engine does go. Rebuild > 2nd hand unknown condition engine imo. My TT engine lasted well past 300km before it gave up so you have plenty of life left in it to save up and consider your options. If you want to rebuild then you can look around for a good block with reasonably round bores. Find some older EJ20 pistons too as they have longer skirts and will keep the build cost down (plus they\'re probably an upgrade) if you\'re concerned.
  15. Stuff you should do to make it go better (aka run normally): - Coils (if they haven\'t been done already they\'re old! On to my 3rd set now) - Plugs - Fuel pump, including wiring-in a new relay and power cable. The factory loom builds up significant resistance which reduces the current the pump can draw, limiting fuelling. Upgrades: - Exhaust, especially a larger bore to the secondary turbo can add some fun - Single turbo is possible, could be a big wiring job though depending on your ECU Hit me up for a ECU chip if you stick with the TT setup