aaronpnz
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Everything posted by aaronpnz
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So, ABS pump fitted, bled etc... sorted the ABS issue ok, but the VDC issue persists. I can reset the ECU and on restart, it looks good, VDC light stays off, can turn VDC on and off all good. However, at next restart, it's baaaack... VDC lights up immediately. Unable to pass WOF as it is, so I have a perfectly *good* car that cannot be driven (legally). Just picked up a cheap Mazda 6, no cambelt to worry about, and will park the Legacy up for a bit while I decide what to do with it. Might sell it as is even. Dunno. Unless there's a genius out there who can give advice on what might cause this issue. *sigh*
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*sigh* ended up getting the ABS pump from the wrecker, hasn't arrived yet... see how that goes I guess.
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Awesome, thanks @Andy_Mac The handbrake light doesn't light at all, just the ABS and VDC lights. My mechanic uses a decent scanning tool that reads all the ECU's in the car, and borrowed another to be sure. I haven't tried Subaru themselves tho, thier SSM scanner might show different perhaps, might try that. Found a pressure switch on AliExpress under $100 NZD, I'll try that first, otherwise I've located an ABS pump with switch for $300 at a wrecker. I have a love/hate relationship with this car.
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It's just a USB connection for touch input. I did once connect my phone via USB-C to HDMI and USB for touch to the screen, it worked ok. Thinking about setting up an Android phone in the car as a wifi router so I can connect phone to Headunit Reloaded via WiFi, no wires. I found a command that will turn an Android phone on when power is applied, and it works. I also have an 8" Windows tablet somewhere I was going to try install in there as well. Too many gadgets... I have a USB hub in the glovebox, with a 256gb SSD and audio dac. I'm planning on somehow integrating my Google Home speaker into the mix via the dac, it has mic input as well as output. Will have to pull the Home speaker apart... oh well. When I get time and motivation that is.
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@Andy_Mac The Timur ROM is good, it doesn't always shut down correctly this and battery drains fast at times, need to remove and charge overnight. It could also be the Tasker profile I'm running tho I guess. Running Headunit Reloaded as well for Android Auto which works well, bit laggy in wireless mode so cable it is for now. Only real reason to move to Windows is the challenge really. I picked up a 7" touchscreen from AliExpress a year or so ago, haven't used it yet, so thinking about that and Lenovo stick PC I have, or smashed screen Surface Pro I also have *sigh* Alternatively, some kind of USBC dock from my Huawei to a touchscreen for control in DEX mode... too many ideas, not enough time and no budget these days. Did you see my ABS/VDC post? Was hoping you'd know something!
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Andy_Mac, I think I have an OEM screen with buttons attached still somewhere if that's any use to you. Don't have the surround/fascia, just the screen. I have a Nexus 7 2013 in my Legacy, been thinking about going to Windows as well tho. What software were you wanting to run on yours?
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Evening all, got some issues with my ABS and VDC, as in they seem to have failed and won't pass WOF. Initially, the VDC light came on, fault code showed as faulty steering angle sensor. This light comes on straight away when car is started. ABS light is now on, sometimes after a while of driving, sometimes straight away. Scan showed 2 codes, one of which was steering angle sensor, but have been able to (with mechanic) verify sensor is working, but not able to reset and clear code. 2nd code is C0074, master cylinder pressure switch. My Legacy is an NZ new BP5 GTb wagon. No one appears to sell the sensor separate, and no one appears to have the correct ABS module either. The switch is a Bosch 0265005303and the ABS module has the number 27536AG050 on it. Can anyone weigh in with advice or even one of these parts, getting desperate as WOF expires next week. Cheers all Aaron
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Update: Paddles now working fine!
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I'm part way thru adding flappy paddle shifters to my 2003 GTb wagon. Paddles are in, figured the wiring out, just need to make it permanent, will do that tomorrow, but had to remove the cruise control lever to allow the wheel to turn without catching the paddles. So, I'm thinking I might replace the wheel with one from newer model, with cruise control buttons.Will have to replace roll connector too I guess, but I know where I can get one of those. Anyone got a wheel, or just the buttons from one?
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Sorry, yes it does idle ok after a run. Is there any other type than full open throttle? -
Thanks guys, I'll have a look into this, are they easy enuff to change? Could I do it myself? I guess you can buy one right...
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Man, this car is getting annoying. What does it mean when CEL & Traction lights are on solid, and cruise control flashes? I have checked the codes and I get P0037 as a result. It's still hunting a bit at lights, and almost stalls when stopping at times, but seems to be fine at power. *shrugs* don't want to spend more money on this thing, might be time to get rid of it maybe.
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Hi, thanks Andy_Mac, logged again on way home tonight. Unable to log MAF, when selected, it freezes BTSSM up, maybe the sensor is playing up? Link below to log + LV https://1drv.ms/f/s!AjfixQ0aH9oCgbZMUCPGzCmV1SqOdw Cheers, Aaron
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Hi, I was wondering if someone could look at the log from BTSSM for me. Legacy has been like stumbling or hunting at lights while waiting, revs drop etc. The AFR and FC needles swing wildly from extreme to extreme. Just wondering what it might be and what I'm up for this time. Link to log https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjfixQ0aH9oCgbZHtwdpQKAmutb3cA Cheers, Aaron
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Best Subaru mechanic in Wellington?
aaronpnz replied to BattleSnayke's topic in General Vehicle Discussion
Brendon Motors on Vivian St have done all my work... 2003 GTb bearings, replaced engine, cambelt, bushings, plugs, oils, fuel system (with Macbuilt) Been very happy with them. -
Thanks all, love the support. Yep, I'm running Timurs kernel on Remix 7.1.2 and charging varies but is 695mA right now. Car sits all day at work and overnight with a 20 min drive to and from work, so not long to charge. The idea is to trickle charge using wireless pad when sitting not on. I've tried Tasker to shut things down on AC power off but Tasker seems to "get lost" at times. Generally I'm very happy with the setup, running Android Auto via Headunit Reloaded over USB or wifi direct works great. It just goes flat too fast.
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hi all, as part of my in-dash tablet install, I'm wondering if there is any power source that is only alive when the car is turned off. So, that when I turn the car off and leave it, this source becomes alive at that point, and then stops when car is turned back on. I'm having problems keeping the N7 powered up for longer than a few days, and have "stuck" a wireless charger to the back of the tablet, that I want to only charge when the car is off. I had wondered if there was anything that I can use from the immobiliser side of things? Either that or a relay switch that connects power on key off. Anyone got any clues here? Cheers, Aaron
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Insider info?
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Update: Got car back yesterday, new fuel pump, fuel filter cleaned, entire full system cleaned out. Filter was just filthy and appears to have clogged, and the full system was also very dirty. Haven't taken it for a rip yet, but seems to have a new lease on life even in commute home, Ngauranga was fun again! Partly age (2003), NZ fuels, and me driving with fuel light on a lot... Lesson learned! Heated seats back... mmmm
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Well... no. I don't have the car back yet, nearly 2 weeks now. I think they have determined it's not the turbo that needs replacing, and ran it through boost and smoke tests, and have found a fuel pump problem. They've replaced the fuel pump but are still having issues, I'm not sure what exactly what the issues are. It's at Macbilt I think. I'll keep you posted...
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question: could fuel pump pressure or blocked filters be the cause of all this? turbo arrived at mechanics, however he is going to check the fuel pump pressure, filter and air flow sensor first...
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Ok thanks guys... wondering what to do... replace turbo or write the car off and chalk it down to experience and forget turbos... likely about $700 for 2nd hand turbo plus a few hours. Rest of car is great, new engine has done about 90thou km, did cambelt and pump 10thou ago... CV boots done, suspension bushes done, bearing done, 4 new tyres... fix and keep, or dump... Dunno
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Mechanic says turbo has gone... that might explain it... somewhat...
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Right so, it seems my turbo has gone. Just had an oil change like last week, but apparently it's toast. Not been driven hard at all. 2nd one now. Anyone got a spare VF38 kicking around? Waiting in agonised apprehension for a price from mechanic...
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Hmm, set up FreeSSM to monitor all possible data this morning, hut start but don't seem to be abl to find any log files, has anyone used FreeSSM to log data? Or any other Windows software that can log data?
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