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You may want to check up on this, as the rules for clothing is changing in April for Motorsport/track events. Not sure if it effects something like this event but it may well do.

F*** that I've gone VIP and staying in a mobile home onsite. May as well do it properly, a few subys there this year too, some are pretty rough as I know the cars.

Inter cooler pipes are all insulated using insulating tape. But hot side is no where near throttle body as they run under headlights and twisted set up. With yours I would hpc coat using the cheaper lower temp compatible coating or look into twisting the turbo.

My track car is pretty sorted for heat, I can do 20 minute stints screwing it and temperatures remain very stable, oil temp dont go above 90 degrees, unless hood scoop blows off then it goes to 110, water temps stay around 85. I run oil cooler in the Tmic position, aftermarket radiator with oem fans and oem shrouds attached, hpc coated everything, that made a huge difference to track day temps and temp stability but yes it's not a cheap option but by god it works. IAT temps were pushing 50 degrees on track now stays in the 30's, this is doing 1 min 15 sec laps around Pukekohe constantly for 20 minutes, this is at mid boost (25 psi) on shitty zestino road tyres.

Waiting on a quote to repair the "paint" on the rear quarter of the car, after chasing a Porsche cup car at pukekohe, and running out of talent at castrol, that will teach me. Luckily mainly got away with it.

Time will tell but on their recommendation I made some changes. I am not prepared to risk anything, so bigger lift pump went on and other minor things were done.

Legend churs

Model: 00 V6 STI (GC8) - 390KW 30 PSI, (253 kw is at 13 psi). Displacement: 2L Mods: GTX3071R twisted gen 1, Link G4+ wire in, black ops1400cc Injectors, 30 PSI, lots modified, (1000HP capable block, Doweled, cdb, oil gallery mods, ARP headstud conversion). Fuel: E75 ( read from dash EtOH sensor) Tuner/Dyno: D TECH. In case anyone wonders, yes I could bolt a bigger turbo and go for stupid power above 500wkw easy enough car is built to take it, but why bother, this way car is responsive and fun to drive, I don't want a small rev range of useable power.

I'm interested to find out what happened too, if you get confirmation then post it up, you don't have to name companies.

Tried to fit the turbo, keeping engine bay clean is a royal pain in the arse when you can only get the turbo on, in a very specific order. Luckily I remembered the exact order on only my 5th attempt. At least it's done now, the turbo oil drain is a pain in the arse too especially when trying to make a dash 10 hose go on dash 12 fitting.

Willall are another level, one day I will have one. I just built my dream block, well it was my dream block 5 years ago, but now the billet block has moved things on and once again there's another setup I want more than my current.

Dont think that belongs in this section, it looks a stunning car. The wing isn't the best but no where near bad enough to be called a crime.

Yep I agree which is why I didn't. I pick the engine up Thursday too, so this weekend will be fun putting it back in the car.

It's 3k because it's complete twin scroll setup with up pipe part of the cost. Head studs probably should be 14mm stud conversion you would think, arp2000 wouldn't cut it. The dtech 500kw car build in last months nzperformance used arp625 which are supposed to be close to 14mm stud conversion capability without the hassle of machining the heads etc. it's the way I'm going.

This is the problem, I was going to get him to do my setup but his theory's on ej20 have not been tested and considering I was quoted 3000 dollars plus gst just for the headers ( a lot of fabricators don't want to know) you can imagine how much a complete setup designed by him would be. It's a big risk, when Plenty have bolted a gtx35r onto a built motor and your good for 450wkw+ depending on boost level, maybe laggy but there's ways around that. A gt40 on even 2.5 would be laggy as S*** wouldn't it!