Loren
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Posts posted by Loren
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1 hour ago, Panda said:I don't see how the axles could come out either.....I was more concerned about the unknowns surrounding whether or not the circlips have seated in properly.....or if they have broken or had been pushed through into the centre of the diff ready to go for a ride through the gears.
Don't worry, the gears will grind the circlips into dust in no time.
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On 12/04/2024 at 1:47 PM, Panda said:
Upon a bit of research I believe I have an R180 diff. Even pulled axles out of these in particular?
There are different R180s too... I only have direct experience with the GC8 Type R/RA diffs that have clutch packs... the circlips are internal with these.
Some of the later STis have a viscous rear R180...pretty sure the axles are the same though.
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1 hour ago, Panda said:
Any idea on how I can confirm whether or not they should be in there? Because they are left behind it would be likely that they are supposed to right?
It should be pretty obvious by the depth of the groove. A deep groove on the axle stub will probably mean a circlip is supposed to be present. A shallow groove probably
means the circlip is inside the diff. You can also put your finger in the diff and see if you can feel the circlip... should be easy enough.
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There are quite a few different rear diffs on these. Some have circlips on the axle stub, and some have them internal to the diff.
Some have equal length axle stubs, and some have different lengths. Something only one side has a circlip on the axle.
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Does it do it if you just coast to a stop without braking?
What about if you use the handbrake to stop?
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Fuel enrichment when cold causing issues maybe? Or maybe the temp sensor is bad, so fuel enrichment is not happening.
There will be a bunch of things different in the tune when it's cold.
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Sounds like a good reason to never buy a new car again.
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I have the universal washer kit from supercheap in my boot... it's not very big. Wouldn't be any good for the intercooler spray.
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Most people who track a track car don't have insurance on the track either!
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5 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
if he is providing all parts already then there isn’t any reason labour would be anywhere near that high but as a total that would be about right.yes sorry, I just mean as a total. I reckon 10 to 20 hours for the short block.
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Expect to pay around 10k for a decent rebuild. Maybe 8k if you take short cuts... 12k if you do everything properly.
Removing the engine and taking off the heads will save a bit of money... but the costs just add up and up and up.
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1 hour ago, Andy_Mac said:
Hogzaust is the even easier way 😉True, and good for an extra 50 kw too.
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replacing the muffler is the easiest way.
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There are diagrams around... you just need to search for them.
It's very likely that Joker is correct though. Just a spare plug with some power going to it, so useful for some previous owners to hook into for whatever.
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It doesn't plugin into the back of one of those panels?
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Thanks.
How big were the fluctuations, if you remember? I am seeing +/- 0.25 psi at idle.
Were they a problem for the tuner, or you just judged them as warranting the dampers before it got to the tuner?
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Who has installed one in a car that didn't have one originally (90s Subarus to my knowledge) when upgrading their fuel system?
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This mod routes water from the head right back to the water pump, bypassing the radiator.
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Anyone bought from them? Good? Bad?
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Front diff has gone bad, but only when warm? Sounds weird to me. Could just be some worn bearings somewhere. You should get it properly diagnosed before trying to find a new box.
A replacement box though should only be $300 to $500. Labour will be easily $1000 these days. You'll probably want to change the clutch and replace or machine the flywheel. Several hundred more dollars there.
But if it's just a worn CV or wheel bearing, it'll be much cheaper!
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2 hours ago, BoozaL said:
I just got a 2009 GT 2.5 Manual, and compared to my old 2006 GT Manual it certainly feels detuned! The old one can spin the wheels easily and pull like a school boy, not even tuned, just high flow cat downpipe and cold air intake.
2009 GT is higher too, I need to lower and stiffen it, and replace the ugly stock rims.Maaaaaaybe tune it with my old air intake and downpipe installed, if the downpipe will fit the BR...
Sounds like you should just trade it in for a 2006 GT Manual.
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It's not how it sounds, it's what you do with it.
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Who's Online 1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 93 Guests (See full list)
Hi all i need a little help with my clutch pedal.
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted · Edited by Loren
You can adjust the piston position at the top of the clutch pedal. Move it towards the firewall. You might want to check that the hydraulics are working properly first though.
Also make sure not to adjust it too high, because then, when you push the pedal to the floor it can over extend the clutch fork and the master cylinder.