Loren

Turbo has a one way valve on the manifold so boost can't get to the booster... booster will be the same.

If you use partsouq to plug part numbers into, it will generally tell you what the superceded part number is as well... so if the part specified for your car doesn't match exactly the part listed for the wrx... it still might be an equivalent part... and the superceded part number will be the same.

Standard question I imagine. You can always verify by using a parts website. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/subaru/impreza

I would give that a 99.999% probability... probably every car Subaru made for the whole decade had the same booster.

@ginganinja the guys in the video have done it correctly... the diff should push up hard onto the bushes.

There will be somewhere closer than Wellington... you're not asking on the right forum really... this is not a motorsport forum.

It's done via ride height, not preload... nothing should be unevenly loaded up when the car is sitting on a flat surface... in fact aside from maybe the springs... no suspension components should be loaded at all. The amount of height difference from corner to corner is minimal... the resulting even weight distribution means the car is more predictable and balanced... not less.

The rumble comes from the unequal length header... but aren't all the unequal length headers for a turbo?

A catch can setup does not need to be expensive or complicated. It is literally just a container with 2 to 3 inputs and one vent. The important thing is to make sure it is big enough to not overflow quickly and not restrictive, so the engine and heads can actually breather properly.

v5/6 STi, can't be too hard to work out. http://www.catherineandken.co.uk/sti/trans.html

ok, so just setting the ride height... not corner weighting btw you don't measure the ride height with the wheels off... not sure how that would even be possible.

Do you mean corner weighting and wheel alignment?

Why do you need to do this, what are you starting with and what are your goals?

Any kind of sealant will burn off as soon as the turbo gets up to temp. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Put it up on stands and get under it while the engine is running... you'll find the leaks pretty quick.

Don't worry about it. Probably not as annoying as you think. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I'm confused... do you love it or do you need to fix it because it's annoying?

Probably just a standard box with no oil.

You are going to need some spanners for sure. There must be about 200 threads about this on the forum. Have you searched? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

That's a difference... a similarity is "removing a safety item because it might not work". If he wants to remove the chance that a life saving device will work, good luck to him.

True, and your brakes might not work either... better rip them out too. Your life buddy

Airbags are good for stopping internal decapitation and face getting wrapped around the steering wheel. http://digg.com/2017/no-airbag-crash-test

Just go and get a WOF check and see what happens. I am willing to bet nothing at all.

Hi Matt. I stuck with the divided up pipe all the way to the turbo... figured there would still be some benefits from less pulse interference. Whether it's that or the headers, the spool is better anyway. Good to know... it helps to confirm my thinking then. Something I have discovered is just how meaningless a dyno chart is in some respects. The divided 1.01 and single entry 0.63 with both spool almost the same on paper, but couldn't be different on the road.

They have done the same to me, their computer system is useless... I always give them the part numbers now.