Gripless

f*** I hope not. It is single door though

I liked the looks of that one too.

I have a Haltech E8 I’ve never used due to the simplicity of the OEM ecu’s The oem ecu have features added by a bunch of people that can make them almost as good as aftermarket. I used to add launch control etc to the code of mid 90’s cars. the biggest plus to aftermarket is the extra sensors and monitors you can setup. Once you go too far with an engine then the extra safety you can program in.

@Dairusire good post except. I like opening ECU cases to check the capacitors that are usually the first and only thing to really die. If the Capacitor tops are bulging you just solder in a new set and life is good. The X on the top is there as a weak point so you know they are on the way out. If they leak then the circuit board corrodes and heaps of s*** goes wrong or other components short out and die. not sure on pin out but sometimes it’s not hard to move up a few years in ecu for a few pin or plug swaps. I’ve made adaptors before from ecu older plug removed from dead ecu board and newer wiring plugs from a wreak snipped off 20cm. It’s a crap load of soldering but fully reversed if needed.

Not in the service manuals PDF links that are floating around on here either?

Partsouq parts diagram may help. Chuck an RA chassis number in and see what comes up.

Did you reset the ecu when you swapped the maf sensor?

RCM parts list cos duck it. head studs https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/store/product/662-rcm-1412mm-superstud-cylinder-head-stud-kit timing belt guide https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/store/product/31-rcm-billet-timing-belt-guide timing belt kit https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/store/product/745-rcm-high-grip-bracket-cosworth-timing-belt Upper Oil baffle https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/store/product/21-rcm-oil-sump-pan-baffle-plate oil pickup https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/store/product/789-rcm-dampened-oil-pickup-pipe-ej25-twin-scroll in the past I just cut a slot in the oem one so it couldn’t even bottom out but this seems more legit did think of drilling a series of 3mm holes around the bottom of the oem one and threading a 3mm silicone or oil safe rubber tube through it to do the same idea of stopping the pickup hitting the bottom and supporting the weight.

Bump

Are they electric or mechanical? if it’s just the bulb then the wiring here gives the illumination colours. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/stereodetail/1976.html use the stereo ones they are easy to get to. Illumination I’m not sure on Subaru if it’s 12v with lights on or switched to ground but multimeter will tell you. check the gauges if the light 12v in If the gauges wire is small and lightweight fuse it inline near where you join it to the stereo loom.

Log the ecu or look at any error codes. grounds for the ecu or sensor loom all attached?

Does the ecu have a good crank and cam sensor reading. Maybe it’s not turning on the injectors until it knows the timing is correct. You said same loom but is it same ecu as well? Any chance the pins are wrong or possibly a ground missing.

Seems easier to just make a wider pan if you can fit it in. Make bolting them up a pain but it can’t slosh into the heads. some wide v8 pans are like that super short bolts and open end spanner take ages to good up but big volume increases and v bottom so oil awaits around pickup. Must be a good custom pan though. This is NZ so we do DIY more than buy since not the volume of sales to support off the shelf designer parts.

I thought they were more for engines without water cooling on the turbo so the oil didn’t cook o to the bearings. With water the heat will still move through the water pump running or not better than the turbo case to the air.

If it’s a sealed bearing not much to go wrong other then dent I the sump stopping it moving side to side.

Accusump is pretty cool. Know a few rally cars it has saved.

I see your 3.5 and raise you 2... Killer b one baffle looks cheaply baffled and could be the capacity is what saves it from sloshing away from the pick up. That American cast sump stuff isn’t as bad as it seems but yes it does crack if something big hits it. Not like the average road stone though. RCM looks like the Cosworth ones and likely the little rubber flaps are cosworth parts. https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/oil-control-devices/cos1-20002499-cosworth-oil-control-baffle though Cosworth has windage scraper baffles up to the crank which is seems better. I have the PBMS one and was thinking of a windage tray add-in only. Custom that sandwiches between the block and PBMS sump. So a single sheet laser cut and bent up to add scraper up to the crank.

IG is ignition aka not constant power. ILM illumination most likely. meter is usually dash cluster audio Navi is the power to the stereo. I’d try ILM first and lamp ones. As the interior illumination controls all your faults. But if the fuse is gone and you replace it and nothing happens check the new fuses as if you have a short then it may blow as soon as you turn the headlights on. that or you have too many high power LED lights. finding fuses the fuse block can be numbered in tiny 1-2mm high raised numbers moulded into the plastic if it’s a cream colour. the cover of the coin box which is the one you pull out to see the fuses can also have the diagram on it. pretty sure they are all numbered from 1 to maybe 32 from top left ie 1-8 9-16 17-24 25-32 still if you know a few fuse amp ratings that are together say 15-17 then look for the fuse colours in that pattern. ie blue empty yellow forgot some of the fuses are backed by a relay to the left of the fuse box. But I don’t remember one for illumination so this is for future reference.

Air compresses around them. Same way a speaker in free air makes no bass. downside is if you open door without the remote you do deaf.

went to swap out the relay that has been causing me some issues and the brake switch as... well it was $8 on the same order and had a fault code once that could have been switch related before. - keyless entry does work - Not bad, happens every year or so and little battery dies in the key fob - get ready to jump inside car and shut door while I find and change battery. Spare usually in glovebox. This is the downside to hella horns when you have the car in a concrete garage its f***ing loud 😡 - open door with physical key and... nothing - Open hood... battery dead flat 1.6v on multimeter - change relays as wtf may as well - labelled them all with vivid first as there are 5 identical ones in cabin. Sounds like they all fail in recall notice. - go to swap brake switch... 😔 Seen I has left the wifi obd2 dongle attached for 3 week 🤦‍♂️ f***en kitten is smarter than me - good news though brake switches are super easy to swap. Just 1/4 turn and the pop out. It’s a 4 pin one for cruise control so will test it later. Maybe useful to someone with older car that has 2 pin. New battery time I’m guessing. that or lipo jumper pack.

Plus you get to post here saying... ”removed bbod and free from detonation”

Meh I forget they still make made v11 with such old tech. Still 100% better than twin turbo. I have a twin turbo exhaust cover if it’s interchangeable

you and @JordanfromNZ should have a support club for BBOD lovers. let’s help you out... V11 twinscroll turbo for peanuts. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/engines/listing/2442089417 @Andy_Mac may still have a stash of headers. Just need a few extra bit and 300whp

rallysportdirect have a sale so likely ordered it more parts. perrin 25% off crawford 25% off and 30% on AOS 15% off everything else with the code at the top of their site. Noooooo they fixed it. Crawford 10% off now was 32% and 15% on top.