Gripless

Most people who track a road ca don’t have insurance on track. Vero or a broker are the option I’ve seen used, but it’s not cheap.

Also wish this was around earlier I looked initially but there wasn’t any good options before. https://www.full-race.com/full-race-borgwarner-b1-efr-electronic-wastegate-conversion-kit Also a range of mount for other turbos too.

After some talks with some Japanese guys who build and deal with American cars the stock nitrided cranks are standing up to daily 1000hp in the 2.5L so the 850hp I was given in NZ was conservative. so weakest part of motor is now the cylinder walls which a only 0.25 bored to clean them up. Could be good for 36-40psi given the 14mm in a fully closed deck. Talked to Kelford again. 220-B idle 1500 rpm is normal especially with 1mm oversized valves rpm limit is likely 10k but tune until 500rpm past peak power. So all power is limited by the turbo. Max I can find on a dyno is 550whp or 620whp with sx-e compressor cover. initial dyno to 8k only has peak power at 8k on e85 Flat from 6-8k on 98 as boost oscillates ~2psi there is also a dip on 98 from 4-5k5 where turbo is again 2psi lower Efr turbo is about the same to 21psi boost as stock turbo. Overall drives and feels very smooth and stock but turbo doesn’t fall off after 5250rpm it keeps boost with no drop. final peak we will by end of the month. but tune will be set a lot lower for daily as the aim now is for flat 5500rpm to 9-10k 250-260wkw

ECU link plug and play G4x basic tune almost makes same boost at 3000rpm as factory. no features enabled Fuel system radium dual pump cradle dual detchwerks 300 pumps radium fuel rail ethanol sensor Cooling RCM oil cooler valve oil cooler front mounted koyo radiator Other parts twin plate organic sprung clutch Top mount PW intercooler AOS self draining BPV from GFB leaked and couldn’t hold boost so replaced wth turbosmart. Aircon pump that works with the newer clutch design that does snap as often stock intake manifold with inside deburred stock exhaust headers Notes Car now runs and drives. few small issues left to sort. looking at sx-e compressor cover since bpv on intercooler. May also help boost ramp faster turbosmart bpv makes chuff noises not the Pssssh like GFB which I don’t like. Exhaust is quieter now with drone mored up rev range so not at 100kph in 6th. intake makes a s*** tonne of noise.

You can buy the oversized one then machine to fit. But then you maybe honing more than needed. best to pay for tear down and inspection, with measurements of everything then buy parts or even another block.

Provided they do all work in-house otherwise add freight and machining etc on top. don’t buy bearings as they may not be correct size depending on work needed.

Is the fitting tapered? that type does always thread all the way in. also most shops I asked said to avoid that mod.

@Niran had a tiny one that fitted. but they are super small and no better than top mount. remember to have front mount work at its best the bonnet scoop needs to be blocked.

How old was the belt and how many kms on the motor? cambelts mostly snap as worn or something seized up. Eg camshaft stop but crank still running. Well missing plastic covering and small stones getting in like to shred things as well.

Ok resonator delete that’s all good.

So where does the air intake now get air from? Is it open to engine bay or still sealed up to the front of the car.

It’s total cost over time. anything you do now other than a cheap late model intercooler and an ecu flash by some random place is money that isn’t there long term. few old Roms around that helped with the rev D issues but not sure which ones. not sure what piping is like when you swap so could be wasted redoing it. Also depending on power you want from single the core in the cheap kits maybe limiting. someone on here may know -what intercooler fit from other models, but the space is limited. -if you can use a different stock ecu model for the single conversion. for heat water spray and 8” fan under the inter cooler are options. Easy things to buy now, not so much 10 years ago when rev D was more popular.

Water spray is always a good idea, but get a random sprayer from wreckers so it not got washer fluid and just water. the modern turbos are very easy to spool and you get the low down torque and less hassle. it’s all bolt on stuff to swap. Too many rev D people want to die on that hill and it’s personal taste but most then just buy another car and push the power with single turbo. rev D is nice car and single turbo swap is good long term as no vacuum setup and stupid pills etc, just simple and way to tune.

https://www.staparts.co.nz/Search-For-Products/SearchTerm/ILFR6B in NZ $22.40 They let me add 5 to cart. even if they don’t have a full set get one at higher price still no wait for shipping etc. you can call them and ask them to physically check stock levels.

That post is 13 years old from someone who found the parts they ordered didn’t match up, then did not return them and cut s*** to fit. Intercooler cores are far better now if you don’t buy cheap ones so you can get a lot of cooling in a small space. Nothing wrong with top mounts. you could water to air then there is no cutting and you could use parts from other car brands etc. I just don’t get the whole rev D keep the twin turbos thing. It’s not like 20 years ago when parts were hard to get, why not single turbo it and retune. Turbo tech has also got better and the options for good spool and power are everywhere.

Subtech used to make some as well.

Never seen those before. what’s on the back? should have made in Japan and a Subaru number or bbs moulded into them.

Seems part number have been superseded so it is very possible the current range of remotes are now battery operated only. no emergency induction coil power via the start button. thanks global supply chain issues

Just a reminder to keep spare batteries in the car for the remotes if you are travelling. or change out the current battery for a new one.

Did the current clutch have sprung center?

I got a new remote for the car and while it looks identical on the outside on the inside it’s missing some of the components. I opened it as it felt lighter and the battery was flat. The original ones have extra components so they work when the battery is flat as well as the battery powered radio section. The new one from Subaru have only the radio side and no inductor coil or second chip for the battery less operation. Going to try to get the new key codes this week so will post back when I get more details.

Depends on how much you want to ride the clutch etc. I when with twin plate due to lower operating force but higher torque. id get a spring centre one even if you go puk. Just that little bit nicer on drive line.

Sony gps touch screens one seem to be popular on here for replacement units. you can either go all in one replacement android units from China. or get the double DIN surround so any common stereo unit fits. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/interior/listing/3883430991?bof=Kyx20DpK most now have either a select car option that setups up the steering wheel buttons or has a mode to learn buttons. though ring Subaru head office, dealers are not exactly helpful and they may offer you something where a dealer can’t or won’t bother. edit: added link to din converter panel

Engine long block is together. has RCM head gaskets fitted, plus all the other RCM parts that were ordered. rest of parts list is being priced up and then it’ll get fitted to the car early next year.

I did not know but the 2008 up hatches have 2 little rubber buttons to open them o the hatch itself. one is the middle that opens the actual hatch. But it’s just the hatch and common. the other is under the same trim but at the very right next to the tail light and it unlocks the doors. so you can open the doors for everyone without having to use the remote.