Gripless

I have a brake booster brace so maybe that’s why mine has no noise.

Did they fit the metal shims to the back of the pads? Mine only squeak when actually stopping, never stationary

Is it inside or outside the noise is from? If it’s inside then I had a similar thing in another car and it was the rod to the master cylinder. the rod is rounded and sits in a concave bit and it ran out of grease. The other thing that makes sound is the return spring on the top or the mounting bolts coming loose. also split firewalls where the welds around the booster mount start to go.

B cams should be good for 600hp if you have big ports. the bigger cams need the heads notched to clear the bigger lobes but that’s not much. arp studs aren’t as good and RCM 12/14mm ones don’t forget to add $ for cooling clutch cert etc.

Anyone tried or heard about these? https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/radiators-cooling-systems/listing/3793887080?bof=FKA7Hhyl

I paid more invoices does that count? have to drain the old fuel out to a reasonable level as well.

Got the new link ecu also engine finally getting assembled need to find good radiator and since I started this prices have gone up so much.

Whiteline has kits as well to replace the stock bushes in the shifter etc, https://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KDT957&sq=265037&sq2=11840 i wouldn’t weld anything up. There are alloy spaces for the figure 8 gearbox main mount plates if you don’t like rubber. A loose rubber even broken bushes still work, snapped welds don’t do so well bouncing around. group N are pretty solid mounts but you can always fill the gaps up yourself. You can by filler or even cheapest option is garden hose cut and pushed in. Just run cable tie though it so it won’t fall out.

Need a new battery for the STi as the one I got in 2020 didn’t like the lack of use in the last 2 years. it charged ok last time but runs flat after a month or so sitting around. even with the sub amp breaker turned off it doesn’t last long.

Go for the 2008 up model if you can way better handling and chassis. evo 4 is great car but you get very little for the money as the are worn out. They don’t suffer as much from the weak front chassis in wheel arches but they do tear subframes out a bit. also the rear diff wears out a lot unless you find the RS with wind up window and real real LSD. but old evos feel way faster even when going slow with more road noise etc in older cars.

Being the lightest part of the light just that small section could make a big difference. can always t,as photo and photoshop or use phone highlight correction to see what it’d look like.

Driveshaft loops for carbon shafts so they don’t pole vault like solid steel as well.

My aftermarket tints are darker from outside. The problem is if the car already has some factory tint if it adds up to too dark. One of the reasons they change the rules in some years. Cheap tint can be dark both ways, and some tint does work well with factory tint. cops also complain they can’t see in so laws change again. the originally government wanted complete ban they thought it was on outside and gets scratched by wipers. tinited tail light rule was to stop the 2000’s epidemic of stockings over lights on civics. Along with mirror tints on windows. even the lowering laws for lowered springs was from a video of a prelude in Wellington having a chopped spring fall out on SH1. this one was almost a complete ban as well, lucky there was at least one car guy in parliament and he managed to avoid the complete ban.

I just redrilled the NZ plates on my old car to match body mounts as they didn’t match

Bump… anyone else? I’m thinking of doing this soon.

Sounds like #2 is dead and engine is blown. could be rings, piston or bore. unlike to be valve train if the oil came out the dip stick. Pressure would escape the easiest way. even rod snapped, not sure what Subaru sounds like with those but on inline engine its pretty loud, you can’t miss it. piston could have cracked around the rings and leak pretty badly. Melted piston would be least amount of damage and s*** in the engine. Borrow or buy a flexible camera and stick it through the spark plug hole. With piston at the bottom have a look around and you’ll likely see what it is. You could listen for the air leak from intake or exhaust ports when you leak test it, to see if the valves are sealed. PCV valve would be most likely place for the compression test air to escape. With 0 psi on #2 and all the oil in the intake etc would be worried about the cylinder imbalance at this stage.

Oil could go out the dipstick, and it’d then also go through to the intake if the breathers lines are all connected up which would explain the turbo sucking through the oil.

Yeah but stated rails. you could use the recaro ones for LVVTA. I had homemade brackets all welded in place for mine once it had full cage. But fixed seats are a pain if you share the car with different height people. That all goes into the cage design as well as padding. If the seat goes to far back then cage changes. That’s a whole other bit to deal with. bias is one thing power is another. Being awd likely no change required but never assume that stuff always ask the certifier. plus the drifting you may need a extra set of callipers for handbrake so all goes on the list to ask.

For MSNZ the rules on cages are pretty much the same over time as it’s pretty well designed. Worst I had to do was swap belts and first cage needed a bar added. But that was over built by rally shop from day 1. Get a good cage that goes to strut towers and has x braces for front doors and rear from lower b pillar to rear cage c pillar or rear strut tower. adding bars later is a pig of a job. Good thing is since Subaru are used for rally heaps of places have old templates for them. don’t be afraid to splash out on safety gear and cage padding it’s worth it. Ive had a couple of close calls and that gear not only saves your life but reduces damage massively. HANS device are awesome! Classes are where the rules can change, All tracks use MSNZ rules so if you have a cage with the stickers and matching documentation you’re good. You need to get a Motorsport licence so join a approved club and then apply for MSNZ licence. You have to sit a test but it’s pretty simple. Also clubs have so many people that can help with contacts and questions. read this https://www.motorsport.org.nz/licences/ if you just want a cage and do club events and track days them get M if you want to go drifting or compete then getting C covers you for up to national events. I haven’t kept up with rules in ages

Same s****y power supply as so many things. shows more about standards and testing rather than design. design is good as they aim for cost savings. also currently with mass component shortage things will get even worse as they try to get stock.

The studs recesses don’t touch the outside edge on the central concave so could be 100mm legacy wheels. They also almost touch the centre cap so that’s a 100mm thing. you’ll find out at compliance time.

Just call LVVTA certifier if that fails call LVVTA tech department directly to get a recommendation. Most cert people are pretty good provided you don’t try and bulls*** them. The sooner you call the cheaper things are since you won’t get s*** internet advise and buy the wrong things. Your old cert work may get looked at again as the standards change over time. And now EJ20 again so any old changes need to be rechecked. You can’t just undo cert changes and go back to stock when you want you have to go do more paperwork and spend $. I’d be pretty upfront about that old cert to the certifier and you’ll have to trailer it around to them. Driving an illegal car to a cert place is a quick way to have a bad day. from past dumb s*** I’ve done. half cages are drag approved only, at race track they are counted the same as no cage, so no passengers. Drifting is likely full cage required anyway. You can get half cage road legal under LVVTA but it won’t help much other than chassis flex on a track. With half cage you have to unclip and remove harnesses when on the road. Only MSNZ approval works for harnesses on the road. Don’t get a bolt in harness bar they are dangerous. Even running real harnesses to the rear seat belt bolts works but the angles are very steep and a bit risky. harness rule change and HANS neck device rules made belt go back to 2” and cost way more. without a cage you can’t always strip the rear as it has to many sharp bits. Though you used to be able to certify the car as 2 seater and then you could. seats can’t be on home made rails etc recaro are an option as they are OEM crash tested and double lock. These and harnesses are part of MSNZ assessment. The issue is seat belt clip mount is attached to the rails. If it is chassis mounted then you have more options with rails. Same with seats likely need new ones that are safety rated. anything that is not MSNZ or LVVTA still needs to be WOF standards. things I have some vague idea of you may have to resize the rear brakes as they are now having to stop 100% of the driveline power. I think redrilling cast knuckles isn’t allowed. drive shaft may have to be 1 piece to get rid of center bearing depending on power etc. then you may need 2 drive shaft loops.

Ok I thought the stock ones crossed over at the back. you’d lose some twin scroll spool up speed but on a single it’d be almost nothing. The tomei one is still twin scroll which must muffle the rumble more as well.

Is it the fact the each bank joins vs the opposite cylinders. wont you just need to swap the pipes at the collector. length alone may not give you the rumble. And the extra length of pipe would be hard get to a low mount.

Pretty common in all the devices that have the under plastic switches. washing machines had the same faults. Trade off with wear vs sealing things.