Gripless

The other issue is running a front mount is becoming increasingly hard as you have bigger and bigger crash bars which can’t be cut. Australia has almost no rules and virtually no wof or cert unless you car gets ordered there.

Looking at current vehicles heaps or euros and even the American F150 run water intercoolering now.

That is kind of true but the area differences between the exchanger and radiator offset that quite a bit. I cant find much that says they heat soak from people who actually have them. Other than drag racing but they are icebox only.

That was with cobra pump not the nasty plastic thing. Only thing that that I don’t like is that if they leak into the intake it’s pretty much a horror story for the motor. I cant see how they can heat soak. Water is something like 25x more efficient at conducting heat. As long as you don’t over speed the water flow it should draw heat extremely well, plus since the cooler is out front and you’d have to heat all the water before it loses efficiency

Anyone seen https://frozenboost.com range of gear? about $450 plus shipping gets 600hp setup with heat exchanger, radiator, pump and remote cap. Just need to add lines.

@newsuba that’s way to pretty. All I have is a single bar with a few bends s it clear the nuts from the bracket. I also wrapped wire around the bar and bracket as the bolts are so tiny.

Bunnings has them cheap too, and have stores everywhere. stores can have more options https://www.bunnings.co.nz/search/products?q=fire extinguisher 2.5L dual strap $63 https://www.bunnings.co.nz/family-shield-2-5kg-fire-extinguisher_p00183790 i put a wire (like baby #8 fencing wire) between the two release catches so even if you pull one they both pop open. Makes it easier to open and don’t have to stretch as far. remember in older cars without a cage that the firewall comes into the footwell in a crash so ideally remove them for road use or your passenger may be worse off. For a a race car the plumb in kits are now pretty cheap.

The second one, rear 22mm so not that big and not on hardest setting.

Links are all oem ones or last one was autolign. Newest one is a 2016 STi one.

Do they have a rear sway bar fitted. If it rolls or leans to much in corners then it’s a easier fit to fit a bigger rear bar.

I’m good with the height I have so as long as they clear at the current height it’s ok. I’m a fan of lightweight as they are better on the road. May have to get camber tops to get some more clearance

888 pages today I’m again replacing the left rear sway bar link for the third time.

Sadly they are silver only oh and cost way too much Enkei RPf1o 18 x 9.5 ET45 https://www.hyperdrive.co.nz/product/6204/enkei-rpf1-silver?associated=17197%2C17198%2C212880 Edit: these are out need 4mm spacers for the ET38 to clear brembos https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1575028&page=239

A few people have used subtech on here.

Looking for some new wheels for a GRB something similar to the factory BBS twin spokes but wider. Darker colour or bronze (bronze has grown on me since I fitted the bbs ones) @Niran has managed to fit 9.5” offset ET38 on his so they work just. Measured up the clearance from suspension and arms as well as an other area. Looks to be at least 15mm on all the interior sides. Should be safe to be 8-10mm less clearance. Closest bit is the front inner wheel well. The bit directly in front of the wheel so easy to pull forward since it attached with push in plastic clips. Options and ideal offsets here: https://www.fastwrx.com/pages/subaru-wrx-and-sti-wheel-information Japan racing JR18 18 x 9.5 ET40 hyper black ET43 https://jr-wheels.com/towar.5248.japan.racing.jr29.18x95.et2040.blank.matt.bronze.html works emotion cr kiwani 18 x 9.5 ET38 http://www.work-wheels.co.nz/Products/31/60/Emotion-CR-Kiwami Work emotion M8R 18 x 9.5 ET38 http://www.work-wheels.co.nz/Products/191/60/WORK-M8R Rota tarmac T2R 18 x 9.5 ET38 https://www.rotawheels.com.au/wheels/rota-t2r#!prettyPhoto

Well I finally got a chance to look at this seems fuse 22 and the aircon panel pins are getting 3v not 12v. Only thing it passes through unique seems to be a push button start relay #2. The rest of the circuit is working as the mat feeds start relay #1 and since the car runs that has to be ok. Time to find a replacement starter relay.

@Andy_Mac yes for the TVG it’s carbide and sanding. I was playing with stones and they clog up way to fast but make a nice job being bigger diameter. With carbide and a hacksaw a half day should be enough. Have mostly finished but waiting on heads before I make the final taper as I think the TVG needs about another 1.5mm bigger all around to match the heads. For the manifold the flapper wheels on a 200mm shaft should be able to get further inside than the carbide can to smooth it out nicer.

Need to buy some flappy sanding wheels to do the intake manifold. Pretty sure that will be the rest of the day sanding and grinding. If if you are going to do TVG clean up yourself get more supplies than you think it will take. Alloy clogs up everything even with wd40

Started grinding up TVG and realised there so much to take out especially to match the intake to the TVG. The intake manifold is about 5mm smaller in diameter than the TVG

Still have to pick valve springs as the titanium retainers I have work with most springs. Manley seem to be the cheapest and good to 10k rpm limit. Thinking that the buckets must add more weight to the Subaru valve train. Have to add new valve keepers as well so adds $100usd more. Cobb map sensor looks to be plug and play so can hit the 30-32 psi planned boost limit.

After getting costing and mapping turbo spool and flow it seems the stroker is almost pointless and costs an additional $3200. Plus reduces the redline potential so it seems the engine is 2.0L again. Heads should be heading down to horsepower heads for the CNC next/this week. With new bronze magnesium guides fitted since they will be removed for porting and the current ones are a bit worn. If I get some time I’ll get video of the before and then some after. On the valve front if there is any Easter sales 1mm oversized valves may find the way in. These are needed but since most places don’t stock or sell the stock size inconel exhaust or undercut stems intake. Tomei have a full set and some of their stuff is just cosworth built. JE newest Ultra pistons have been ordered.

That last plot looks like big torque low down. But ends 500 rpm early

breathing. So intake and/or exhaust Handling. rear swaybar as don’t think you get one from factory. Look for any stock wrx or sti one. You may need the brackets off a wrecked car. weight reduction.

I forgot to mention royal purple as well. Their race oil is amazing. The thing to watch is the higher performance or “racing” oils need to be changed more often so really do cost more. They have less detergent so I used to mix 50/50 racing and normal. I think this is the one that shows Mobil S out performed Mobil 1. This doesn’t every test but just pressure and film strength which is a good indication. http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil Tests.pdf

Nothing between an and an so they are easy to undo. The angles inside the fitting ensures good seal. For putting the an adaptors into something to start the line it depends. I used gasket seal on my oil plates as I could see both sides, but Teflon tape on the engine block as i didn’t trust it to not bead inside and fall off.