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Den20

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Everything posted by Den20

  1. Sounds like the press sensor something I should get going again if possible - I had no idea abs and traction control were affected (and we frequently drive on snow and icy roads).So if the high signal is due a "pull up resistor" as suggested then its probably ment to be with a faulty pressure sensor. I guess the way forward is to repair or replace the sensor and once done I should be able to clear the fault code (after the engine startup period). Assuming this is correct I will still need to disable the fault code because it will still come up on start up. Does anyone know how to test the pressure sensor? Resitance between terminals??
  2. We've lived with this for over 2 years and the only issue is its stuck in sport mode, and check engine light is always on - so there is no hurry at all. (The check engine light is probably not so good for resale). Its very kind of you to offer to sort it out thanks - I wouldnt want to put you to any trouble. My son has the tactrix cable and the software, I believe he has reflashed own car so ill see what he thinks about it first- after all what can possibly go wrong? With 5 v on the signal line the ecu "thinks" atmospheric pressure is 150 kpa absolute (romraider shows that). Actual atmospheric press is less than 100 kpa (abs) yet we haven't had any running problems which is why I was thinking that sensor didnt do anything important. I've pulled engines out a few times, re built one and overhauled transmissions on older models, but you know removing that manifold to do the blanking plate looks like a mission that id rather not embark on. The manual starts off by telling you to degas the air con! The valves might leak a small amount but its almost undetectable where the pump was connected so id be happy just to leave the blanking job for now.
  3. By delete I do mean disable. I live in Ohakune and we (my wifes car) took it to Ellite motors in palmerston north about a year ago and they said they couldnt disable that fault "code" it while it was active. I dont think they were considering re flashing the ecu. I agree thats probably the way to go. Can you recommend anyone or know of anyone central north island who could do that? I would still like to know why it has a high signal even when disconnected. That seems to me like an ecu fault. My intention when i thought the pressure sensor was faulty was to disconnect it and use resistors to fudge a mid range signal eg 2.5v. Do you know if the sensor does anything other than proving tbe secondary air system is working correctly. Most people when they disable this system seem to retain pressure sensor for some reason. Thanks for your help with this.
  4. Yes thats right. I can clear it and check engine light goes out but its back in about 10 seconds. The fault comes up just with the igniton on as well as when the motor is running.
  5. Thanks for your reply Andy. I pulled the air pump fuse but it will be a few days before I can look at the ecu. Is a pull up resistor one that can be unplugged or something? We have tried to get some one to delete the codes but they apparently werent able to delete that particular one because it was an active fault. I suspect they might have actually deleted all the other sec air system codes because they no longer come up. Ill let you know how I get on withe the ecu. Cheers
  6. Hi everyone, I'm a new member. I've been searching all the forums for a solution to my problem to no avail, so I thought I should ask - someone else must have come accross this. The cars 2008 legacy. The secondary air system has'nt worked for ages but its all still there except I unplugged the air pump. Originally I could clear all the codes, and they wouldnt come back for a few days, but after a while p2433 wouldn't clear. (Thats pressure sensor high). I was thinking the sensor might be defective but now I've looked in to it I have found the signal wire aways has 5v on it, even when disconnected from the sensor. So its not due to a sensor fault. Im pretty sure its not a short circuit to the 5v power supply wire (145k ohm resistance between wires) Its got to be comming back from the ecu and I guess the question I have is how to fix that? It would be good to get rid of the check engine light and have the car fully functional again. Thanks. Any help is appreciated. Den20
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