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Omsin

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Everything posted by Omsin

  1. This equation, i = v/r, tells us that the current, i, flowing through a circuit is directly proportional to the voltage, v, and inversely proportional to the resistance, r. In other words, if we increasethe voltage, then the current will increase. But, if we increase the resistance, then the currentwill decrease.
  2. I had an issue way back on a different car, when I had coilpack issues I had a misfire. According to the mechanic, due to the misfire and rich condition my oxygen sensor failed - each consecutive sensor while I had coil pack / missfire issues. When working correctly the oxygen sensor can be seen (using a scanner / appropriate tool) - I can’t remember if this was before or after but on one of the drives with the mechanic my 02 sensor was showing a wave (cycling up and down on the graph), I’m not sure if it was supposed or if it is supposed to give a consistent reading, after swapping 02 sensors the reading was completely different. you should be able to get a shop to connect a scanner to the ecu and watch what the 02 sensor is doing. Get your VIN and go to Partsouq.com and find the 02 sensor, that’s the cheapest Place for OEM parts. Shipping is fast.
  3. Thought you were going Liam Neeson on us and saying you were going to track them down 😂😂😂 I would help with disposing the body fyi 😉
  4. After having a 2 seater car for a number of years it is refreshing to have a 4 seater and the added benefit of eliminating most of the road noise from the rear - not sure I’d like to remove the rear seats. Yes, list as below: •front control arm bushes - Nolathane •front tie rod ends and raised ball joint - whiteline •front control arm H brace on order - Cusco • bc racing coilovers • front and rear sway bar complete kit - whiteline •subframe inserts - whiteline •rear diff inserts - whiteline •rear diff support inserts - whiteline •front strut brace - Sti •rear strut brace - Cusco •transmission mount and crossmember bushes - whiteline •shifter bushes - whiteline •driveshaft solid carrier mount - torque solutions •steering rack bushes - whiteline •rear subframe brace on order - Cusco •pitch stop mount bushes - whiteline •Brake MCB - Cusco next on my list is the Cusco steering rack bracket and Perrin steering damper locking collars. Also looking at rear trailing, toe and lower control arms
  5. New tyres and coilovers - check, got those 😏
  6. Side note, if you lift your car up with a scissor jack you’ll see exactly how much twisting the chassis will do, just because a car is new doesn’t make it completely rigid. Manufacturers will do the bare minimum. We are at the end of the day talking about Subaru, not a Ferrari. I imagine a great number of corners were cut and cost saving measures were implemented in the design of the car
  7. 100% agree hence why I’ve also done the subframe and control arm bushings. Aswell as the obvious diff and transmission bushes / mounts.-I had my doubts about the rear subframe brace, that one does indeed look pointless. Subframe movement around the anchor points / bushes definitely happens, as you mentioned. Chassis twisting and movement in other components also happens. Parts I didn’t mention which I’ve already ordered WILL help, such as the front control arm link / “H brace” and thicker front control arm rear support bracket. The braces above have reviews from overseas stating an improvement but I would like to hear first hand from anyone here who may have them (as often is the case of paid / sponsored reviews on big sites). STI spent a great deal of R&D working on flexible chassis bracing for the S207 or whatever it’s called, you can buy the performance pack from Japan for a good chunk of coin - but I’m not that well off and would rather investigate the effectiveness of the these solid bars. @Gripless I may also remind you that sway bars are mounted to the subframes (specifically the rear one) 😛
  8. Yes, correct. Speculation is that its an oil issue, too thin, sloshing to one side (ineffective baffle), oil pick up failure, low oil. Then again it seems more likely to be from knocking which would then cause a pretty quick sequence of events leading to the self destruction of the motor. Back on topic, it could be that the OPs motor had developed knock prior to the log above, the damage would have already been done to the crank / rods - which once the engine increases RPM as per the data logging run (even without knock at this specific point in time) would lead the engine to be operating off balance at high RPM and chew through the bearings?
  9. Does anyone on here have any chassis bracing parts, Cusco parts to be more precise? (not interested in strut or sway bars as I have those already) - looking for real feedback to help me make up my mind about a few pieces. An interesting one I came across today which I haven't seen before is this one: https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/57178 Cusco C pillar brace, I have only managed to find one review on it and it wasn't very in-depth. Cusco Power Brace Power Steering Rack Cusco Power Brace Rear Member Cusco Power Brace Rear Lower Cusco Power Brace Crossmember Cusco Front Member Power Brace Cusco Power Brace Floor Center Installed photos:
  10. "Shouldn't" - correct, "Have" - evidence suggests (debatable - Subaru motor is quite sensitive) Was a class action lawsuit in America regarding piston rings, slightly different to bearings but the conclusion was more or less "poor / inadequate design"
  11. To be fair the GRB STI is a bit of a ticking time bomb, the one I had blew up on the guy I sold it to around 10,000kms later (guy looked like an idiot to be fair). I did 5 pre-purchase inspections when i was trying to find one a year or so later, but they were all junk and ended up buying a WRX instead (GVE). The last STI I checked only had 90,000kms on the clock and one cylinder was down to about 80Psi, didn't even bother with a leak down test.
  12. Once you get a turbo car with an aftermarket intake or blow off valve, driving conservatively gets thrown out the window and it’s replaced with all sorts of good noises
  13. Might PM you next time I'm heading over that way, would be good to verify that my car is actually running properly / aka tuned for the intake mods
  14. Better off getting a walkie talkie off aliexpress and use the police channels to order in a spare part :p That or buy a vodafone brick / spark brick as I found places like in between Te Kuiti / New plymouth work better with one provider than the other for example
  15. I've been thinking about this too ever since trying Gull 98 in my Subaru when I was desperate for gas but didn't want to pay Auckland fuel tax :p Stopped off at Gull by Hampton downs on my way back to Hamilton. I added a bottle of Redline fuel system cleaner at the same time (i do once every few months). No noticeable difference as I was only cruising, but the next tank i filled up at gull again and it seemed a little bit better and my fuel consumption has actually been pretty good - a solid 10.2L/km compared to 10.8 it seems to hover around. I'm told by the previous owner that the car has been tuned in Australia and needs 98 octane, up until a few tanks ago I have been using BP 98 religiously. Does anyone have a scanner they could use on my car to pull the vitals up and see how my car looks? Ideal if you're in the Waikato / BOP
  16. Some meters actually show km p/ L instead of L p/km my ex gf had a 2L legacy NA manual which was usually very efficient AND extremely slow 😛
  17. If you don’t get a reply I would suggest googling driver reviews and checking out the results from the popular overseas forums where there’s more discussion on them. I’d think they’d have an easier life than a manual sports car - different kind of people are associated with manual cars if you know what I mean (boy racers)
  18. I have a 2011 WRX 2.5L and with a mix of driving I have 10.2L p/100km. That’s with enjoying the car but also driving / shifting conservatively. a 6 speed would save you more gas if you do open road driving. My 5 speed sits at 3k rpm at 100, a 6 speed sti would sit just above 2k rpm for example. best I’ve seen is 8.9L p/100km cruising on the motorway Auckland to Hamilton. I have an aftermarket air intake, top mount and tune for 98 gas - FYI Reset your trip meter after every fill up to keep an accurate average. tips: keep a good tyre pressure, shift before boost, roll power on for passing, let your car roll when you can when you know you need to stop / turn (on the open road you can cover a fair bit of ground at idle) - braking is wasting energy.
  19. copy the image URL, paste into the box after clicking on insert image. Delete anything that isn’t “https://www.theimagehostingsite.com/nameofimage.jpg”
  20. 100% would never get an e tune. Think about it, you’re getting someone setup a file to run your car without being able to test it / see how it reacts and make more adjustments. At the very least a road tune should be done and if you’re after big changes then go all out on a dyno tune. Quite often tuners will set up a base tune with the car idling / revs before putting power down and beginning the actual tune on the dyno
  21. Just for stats purposes, if you don’t mind: kms? engine mods / tune? oil change interval / oil weight? / check oil level regularly? Theres been talk on other forums of why these motors spin bearings (oil too thin, high load on motor etc) No recommendations other than Subtech who are in Auckland, I second freighting the motor to a reputable mechanic / Subaru specialist
  22. Hooked up a reversing camera to my factory Nav screen which doesn’t have a rca input for a reversing camera. A trip to Jaycar and identifying which pins to use on the back and it all works
  23. Would be better if it filled out the sides of the rear bumper... but if I was going to spend that kind of money I’d look at the carbon fibre one from Japan which is moulded to the bumper 😍😊
  24. Hey guys, I just want to see how many of you would be keen to get a rear diffuser / front splitter or even side skirts for ya Subi’s www.Strafedesign.com Specs: Powdercoated Aluminum: matte or gloss black Several different fin designs Several different styles per car For 2002 all the way up to the latest Subaru 2015+ WRX / STI If enough people are interested I’ll email the supplier back and see if they can do a “club price” - all potential sales will be direct between yourself and the supplier after a deal has been worked out so you don’t have to worry about who’s handling your money and where it’s being shipped etc etc. Please only say you’re interested if you genuinely want to get on board because any potential deal is based on quantity and subsequent sales for the vendor
  25. Good Afternoon sir, the recall has been completed free of charge, however while working on your car we noticed a few things, here is a list of items that NEED addressing ASAP for a million dollars
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