pharnos
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Posts posted by pharnos
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Anyone know if this would suit? Looks like the sucker I need...
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On 25/11/2021 at 9:25 AM, Andy_Mac said:
Pretty sure the facelifts need the tactrix cable as the vehicle type for connecting to ecuflash is ‘subaru can’ which the cheap cables don't support.
oh yep, anyone know of anywhere local (NZ ... Akl?) doing Tactrix cables?
Cheers!
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Heyas,
I've got the secondary air pump stuck open problem in my 2007 BP5 Legacy GT. It doesn't look too tricky to disconnect the air pump, read the ROM, tweak out the code and flash it back - however I don't think the cables I have are giving me much luck. One is a VAG COM with the CH340 chip, the other has the ftdi FT232R which works ok with FreeSSM and BTSSM but EcuFlash gets to a log line about recognising the ecu is in test mode (green connectors in passenger footwell connected), shows the ecu number then errors.
Is anyone selling a cable or know where to buy one that will work with some software that I can read and write to the ecu with?
The ECU code is (A2PG420A) (4B04535107)
Cheers!
Steve.
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Coming in with another update: haven't used a sunshade for a couple of years now, dash is all good apart from a small patch where the steering wheel lock rests on the dash and has rubbed - that spot looks like it'd go sticky.
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I too was suffering the same issue, I ended up adding a relay to the ODB2 cable in effect disconnecting the main power line between the ODB2 cable and the hub/tablet. IT does slow the drain but still not enough if you don't drive daily. Next step is hard wiring
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Just an update: the dash is still fine, no sign of stickiness at all - even after these scorcher sunny days without a windscreen sunshade.
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On 5/23/2018 at 6:45 PM, Firenza said:
Unfortunately the cars covered in all the dirt driving from Auckland to Queenstown will bring, but I think they're good photos none the less
These ^^^ these are great calendar photos
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This thread, 4th post is what I did to reset the transmission...
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7 hours ago, jabz said:
Can you contact Subaru NZ as they mention NO ONE has reported the issue on a NZ model.
Philip.Hall AT subaru DOT co DOT nz
Andrew.Lov AT subaru DOT co DOT nz
Hi so how has this held up in the HOT Summer over the past few months? I will get some and try it soon.
Yep, all good, no stickiness. Same cracks are still there (i've filled some with sugru www.sugru.com) and placed a pinhole at the end of one to stop it growing. I try to throw up the windscreen shade when it's out in the sun for a while. Dash has remained sticky-free so I'm well impressed with that product.
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I'm pretty sure your 2007 Legacy will be twin-scroll. After some googling it looks like don't have a twin-scroll specific gasket there...
Will not fit twin scroll turbo Imprezas (JDM WRX STI).
This is the Subaru Legacy 03-09 Twin Scroll Turbo Outlet Gasket...
Looking at your downpipe, I'd say that's the gasket you want.
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Here's my thread for my Nexus tablet install - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cndnsd-2007-gt-si-cruise-bp5-244063.html?t=244063. I'm just using a US$10 vagcom (i think) cable to connect to OBDII, which works well with BTSSM. I was using the 2012 Nexus 7 tablet, but have since replaced that with the 2013 version which is much better (faster, more resposive).
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yes! and then BTSSM ...
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Seeing as it looks like you had access to BTSSM you could use that to reset the ECU which will reset the Learned Values too, and the IAM will default to 0.5. Then after some spirited driving it should increase hopefully up to 1.0.
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Hey guys, I've been meaning to reply to this thread.
I was having the *exact* same problem as shown in the original pictures. The white residue after leaving the dash under cover for a while and the terrible shiny sticky dash after being in the sun. I've tried all sorts of cleaners, chemical free, 3M aerospace 303 protectant, interior cleaners from Germany - nothing worked.
I think I've finally found a solution (touch wood), it's been months since I applied this treatment and I haven't seen any sticky dash or white residue since!
The bottle looks a bit rangi but it has worked great for me. You just dab this on with a small sponge and leave it to dry.
This is the site I ordered it from: http://www.stickymeltingsolution.com/
The exact bottle I ordered was the US$38 single bottle
Sticky Melting Solution Cleaner
Single Bottle - USD 38
This is One bottle Cleaner for touch up and minor cleaning touch up.The shipping is $US12, so US$50 all up.
The guy, Sam, responds pretty quickly to any emails on [email protected]
It has worked great for me, I'd recommend giving it a go.
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I run these...
9006 HB4 50W (for 2007 Legacy BP5)
They are from Aliexpress (US$14)
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/50W-H...349802761.html -
The SI drive maps are just throttle maps and each one can be changed. The right tuner can give you a different boost peak for each setting.
http://i.imgur.com/Fuvyt3m.jpg
Unfortunately, images are gone, but some explanation:
Found this which helps explain it further...
http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewt...hp?f=15&t=8652
So there's a separate table for each mode (as in this screenshot http://i.imgur.com/Fuvyt3m.jpg) which sets a "Requested Torque" value based on the "Engine Speed RPM" and the "Accelerator Pedal Angle %"
These Requested Torque values are used in the Target Boost and Wastegate Duty Cycle tables.
The guy in the link at the top has altered the column break-points (whatever you'd call them) for the Target Boost table to coincide with the Si-Drive mode DriveByWire Requested Torque table...
e.g. The maximum Requested Torque in his Intelligent mode table is 350/360:
His Target Boost table's value for a Requested Torque value of 350 is 18psi and 360 is 19.99psi, so when in Intelligent mode his boost is set to 18psi (matches what he says in his post, maybe missed the RT values of 360? Not sure, might be a way of tuning?)
Then he has Sport mode set at a maximum RT of 400 and Sport Sharp set to a maximum 430. The 400 relates to 22psi and the 430 at 25psi in the Target Boost table.
The wastegate duty tables have also been tweaked:
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If you want to DIY it...
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Replaced mine on the weekend (2007 BP5 Legacy), Ryco (RCA152C) from Ripco ($30-$40)...
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Would something like this work?
You can't update a PAK file with that, but you could use FreeSSM to reset your TCU with it. It also allows logging and reading of sensors with the likes of RomRaider and BTSSM etc
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Yeah, not eyesight, but it does have adaptive cruise control (si-cruise), also known as Full Speed Range Adaptive Cruise Control (FSRACC) which uses radar that you can just see in pic 1 of the trademe link (in the grill). Another giveaway are the buttons on the right-hand side of the steering wheel. Normal cruise control has 4? buttons here, but adapative cruise control will have 5 buttons.
"The lidar mounted inside the front grille detects the tracking distance and the difference in driving speed between the drivers car and the car ahead. This system, by optimally controlling equipment such as the engine, transmission and brakes, maintains a precise tracking (following) distance. The speed range controllable under this sytem is wider than that of conventional Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC), covering from approximately 0km/h to 100km/h.
When the car is moving at a low speed due to a traffic jam, etc., it automatically accelerates and decelerates in synch with the movement of the car ahead until it comes to a complete stop, thereby reducing the burden on drivers of having to constantly adjust and control the cars speed."
[quote name='Wiki said:
"Lidar (also written LIDAR, LiDAR or LADAR) is a surveying technology that measures distance by illuminating a target with a laser light. Although thought by some to be an acronym of Light Detection And Ranging, the term lidar was actually created as a portmanteau of "light" and "radar"."
img]http://i.imgur.com/TJj1LIdl.jpg[/img]
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http://m.imgur.com/fl0FZWo
I get that message after I turn of the car after a wee drive.
Google translate (all together):
Please replace the battery of the key
OR (each piece of word):
Key of key battery the
exchange and give me
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Fairly sure the engine is tuned differently for the 2.0l turbo too - GTB gets 280hp while the GT only gets 250 ish. Can anyone confirm?
Might be looking at the MT 2L turbo vs AT 2L turbo? MT is 280HP and AT is 260HP
I got these figures from a page I came across which I can;t find anymore but have a screenshot of below...
3.0R
3.0R SI-Cruise
184(250)/6600 Max power (NET) kW(PS)/rpm
304(31.0)/4200 Max torque (NET) N.m(kg.m)/rpm
2.0GT (AT)
2.0GT SI-Cruise
2.0GT spec.B(AT)
191(260)/6000 Max power (NET) kW(PS)/rpm
343(35.0)/2000 Max torque (NET) N.m(kg.m)/rpm
2.0GT (MT)
2.0G spec.B (MT)
206(280)/6400 Max power (NET) kW(PS)/rpm
343(35.0)/2400 Max torque (NET) N.m(kg.m)/rpm
2.0R spec.B (AT)
132(180)/6800 Max power (NET) kW(PS)/rpm
196(20.0)/4400 Max torque (NET) N.m(kg.m)/rpm
2.0R spec.B (MT)
140(190)/7100 Max power (NET) kW(PS)/rpm
196(20.0)/4400 Max torque (NET) N.m(kg.m)/rpm
2.0i
2.0i Casual edition
103(140)/5600 Max power (NET) kW(PS)/rpm
186(19.0)/4400 Max torque (NET) N.m(kg.m)/rpm
From this it looks like the extras the spec.B got were:
- Available in 6 speed MT (GT only 5 speed)
- 18" rims (GT 17")
- Rear torsen LSD (MT only)
- "exclusive" HID projector lamps?
- 6MT shift knob (of course)
- Sports pedals (aluminium incl footrest)
- spec.B exclusive sporty grill
- 5mm higher due to increased ground clearance (spec.B 160mm and GT 155mm)
- ~20kg heavier (spec.B 1500kg and GT 1480-1490kg)
- different gear ratio of course 5 vs 6 speed
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EcuFlash - cables?
in General Vehicle Discussion
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Cheers guys, will look for a legit Tactrix