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Stacov

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    Dannevirke

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  1. yeah totally man i think investing in something like that would be totally worth even if u only use it couple times for logging or to check out the data. Just had to shoot into town, was normal driving on the highway next minute car got faster out of nowhere boost had come back to 13.5/14 whatever its meant to be boosted it alittle in 5th to put load on car had no surge everything working fine, on the way home drove it little be harder and then went back to 8psi with the surge in 4/5 gear under load. totally weird as
  2. Was just a basic scan tool did give information but they said the auto electrician had a much better one, i only opt for the 3 month warranty which is nearly up as its nearly been 3 months haha i havnt noticed any issues with the abs while driving tho so not sure why that code has come up. Ill go back next week when everyone is open again, Was just trying to do everything i can do at home before i take it to someone to get looked at properly. So pretty much without hard info from the ecu cant really find the issue. Prob worth having some sort of scan tool when you own these sorts of cars im guess haha thanks for your help man hopefully i get it sorted soon
  3. Hey Andy_Mac only pulling the codes off the dash, and once on a handheld reader at my local mechanics in dannevirke car was brought from car sales in hastings im the first nz owner.
  4. Ok ill try explain as best as i can 2007 Subaru Legacy gt BP5 manual has 98k on the clock whats happening most noticable in 4th and 5th is when u put the car underload and start boostin it starts to build boost and u can feel the car slight surging. While its doing this boost can drop off abit but if u take your foot off the off pedal and put it back on will boost to about 15psi Once it does this "note not all the time" it will limit my boost to 8psi and be stuck like that intill the ecu is cleared/reset Once it has limited the boost to 8psi sport / sport sharp modes make no differences intill ecu is cleared ECU isnt giving any codes apart from ABS c0140 which only showed up yesterday ? Tryed to check all pipes and lines everything looks in good condition ? Changed spark plugs in hope to fix my issue but no go Has new air filter etc.. Car is stock standard apart from 2 rear mufflers Running on BP 98 petrol any help be great thanks finally brought this after years of not having a subaru and all was fine intill about 3 weeks ago when the surging came out of nowhere
  5. Thanks for the info Went over the car today found a few pipes that needed tighten up bov and intercooler pipes etc.. if 8-10 on primary is normal then that must be correct then. Cleaned out the boost solenoid in the guard had abit of crap in it. secondary still having hard time on boost around 6-8 on full noise. Could be right with the wastegate i was thinking that. cheers
  6. Hey all We have had this 1996 subaru legacy RS TT in the family for about 4 years and just driven it. Anyways about time it needs its boost sorted out. Up intill today primary turbo had always ran at 15 psi and secondary at 8 psi for whatever reason its now started to boost around 8-10 psi in all gears but 5th will boost intill 15psi then switch on secondary and run at 8 psi. i dont know much about the whole TT thing apart from its a nightmare Im sure something isn't working as intended boost seems quite low specialy on the secondary ? and the whole primary turbo boost changing is abit weird unless theres a air leak or one of the lines blocked? Only thing ever changed on the car since we had it was spark plugs fuel filter and oil lol. ECU has no fault codes all is clear. Have no idea what turbos its running. Model BD5B48D Here are some pictures maybe something will stick out to someone. http://imgur.com/a/LCywz Cheers all
  7. just changed the filter today using magnatec 10-40w prob after about 15mins of driving its only a slight tic definety quieter then what it was after the new oil. maybe next time it goes into my mechanic ill get them to check the clearances cheers
  8. Hey all got a 96 RS TT here just wondering what lifter setup are in these? hydraulic or solid as the drivers side its pretty noisey but goes away the more you drive it Drives fine just abit annoying tick lol it mainly when cold. its a BD5 169k on motor
  9. yeah cant see any green ones heaps of plugs not connected anywhere and wires hanging out its a jap import if that makes any differents but looks like something butchered the wiring lol
  10. by disconnecting the battery cant find the other connections to do it properly all i found was 2 white connections to bring up the codes. now i dunno what ive bumpd. But have no power steering steering really hard now even the sports button doesnt work this is turning into a nightmare pretty much had enough
  11. finally found the connections to show any engine faults 24 and 31 coming up 31 Throttle position sensor has a new TPS on tho ? 24 ISC valve in the process of putting another one on
  12. Well after driving it around for ages its slowly got worse pretty much idles at 1500-1600 all the time now when its warmed up Cold its about 1000rpm and just gets higher and higher as the motor comes upto temp. Today i took off the iac cleaned it all out huge bits of carbon came out of it, put it back on no change. also taken all the adjustment out of the iac to get it to idle as low as possiable. So what can i try next a different iac ? something else somewhere that causing this issue ? another sensor ? cant for the love of god find any air leaks it drives great apart from not being at 750rpm idle So far replaced MAF, TPS the shaft is nice and tied done spark plugs, fuel filter Need some ideas cause axe vs car is sounding like a good idea atm lol any other sensors that control idle, i got no laptop or software to pull up any fault codes on the ecu, i need to try everything before i have to take it to a garage and get stung. So yeah any ideas would be awesome even if its just taking something off to clean
  13. Boom 100% sure its the IAC adjusted it while car was going got idle down to 900rpm abit better then before lol looks like ill be replacing that as soon as i got some spare cash
  14. Finally got time to change the TPS everything seemed fine, still same issues so can rule out TPS When i set it to 4.5v closed it stills reads over 1.0v fully opened should be 0.5v? car does drive great better then before especialy since the boost is coming on before 3000rpm before was more like 4-5000 rpm lol BUT with the 4.5v the car will idle at 1800rpm cold/hot Cant find any air leaks or anything So idles at 1800 when you drive drops down to 1000 and is fine but yeah any more ideas ? maybe another sensor at fault ? really dont know never had any of this trouble with my old rs and wrx sti Possiable Idle Control Valve ?
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