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Found 5 results

  1. Does anyone know or can meause the height from the centre wheel to guard on factory suspension for the rear wheels? I would greatly appreciate it!
  2. Hi all, Over from the UKLegacy forums as I know quite a lot of you kiwis and aussies and have the tt leggys too! Was wondering if someone can shed some light on an issue im having. Car has been running like sh1t- poor fuel economy, lumpy acceleration, lumpy on idle when started from hot, struggles to stay alive as the revs want to drop. Plugged in SSM cable and front o2 sensor voltage was reading 0.000v. Cleaned the plug... still nothing. Replaced the sensor with a bosch universal 3 wire and its still showing 0.000v. Jumps to about .02v for a split second when the throttle is pressed but instantly drops back to 0v. When I test the black signal wire at the plug where the sensor joins the loom, there is 0.45v at idle (this is about right as this would suggest a normal AFR). This suggests the sensor is working and reading accurately. At the ecu however, the voltage is different. Service manual says that at the ecu plug, the o2 should see between 2.3-2.8v (iirc) . At the ecu pin, mine showed 0.80v with the car idling and o2 sensor unplugged. When plugged in, it jumped to 1.1v but fluctuated massively (down to about 0.6v when revved in neutral and back up to 1+ but never as high as 2v+. I tested the pins on the loom-side plug on the car to see if they were getting power. The heater wire pin was easy to identify as it was getting a solid 12v. The other white was the ground but was still getting like 0.5v. The signal wire itself was also getting about 0.38v which I found a bit strange but I dont understand enough about auto electrics to make sense of it. I tried bypassing the entire wiring to see if it was a wiring fault but didnt make much headway. I ran pins from all 3 ports on the o2 sensor plug. The heating elements went straight to the battery positive and negative terminals to simulate the 12v and the ground. The signal wire was ran directly from the 02 plug inside the car and alligator clipped to a paperclip jammed in the back of the 02 signal wire at the ecu. On ssm it showed a constant .330v (usually what a broken o2 will show). It would not move despite revving the car and stank of fuel due to it telling the car its was running a lean mix. Took it to a garage today and the lad was adamant that I should start with an oem sensor as universal ones are bad for subarus apparently. They dont agree with universal sensors etc. This wouldn't be an issue but the oem sensors are like £180/$250+ and im a student lol. Is there anything else I can try before buying one? This is the second universal bosch o2 inside 8 months, this is the reason Im worried it isnt the actual fault of the sensor. Im fairly confident there is something else weird going on with the ecu/wiring. Any help is much appreciated, thank you troops
  3. Hi all, New to the forums, but am slowly starting to piece together a list of parts and what to keep an eye out for when I go BH5 GTB hunting. I am dead set on one, and am aiming to have one by the end of the year. Based on combing the available forum posts I have got a solid list of parts and things to look for, but I haven't found much on this topic. Now, I don't particularly love how the front bumper of the BH5, but the BE5 B4 RSK front bumper looks very nice, especially in white. It's something about those spotties and the front valance / things below the spotties. Is it a simple bolt on job or are the dimensions of the BH and BE different to the point where this couldn't work? Thanks in advance!
  4. Hi all, need a bit of help with this one please. I have a 2003 NZ new GTB, EJ20X, all stock. I had a new engine installed at 28200km as apparently a con threw and punched a hole in the side of the block, oil and water everywhere. Got all the required stuff (cambelt, pump, plugs) done at the same time. I'm having an issue that started before the engine was replaced, where I get a sort of sputtering and "wet farting" on take off. Total loss of power and requires throttle off then back to stop it. It's gotten to the point now where it's almost dangerous to drive and I just can't rely on it to accelerate as it should. I've put more $ into this than I had planned and while it needs to be resolved, I don't really want to keep "investing". I like the car, love it almost but enough is enough perhaps. Any one have any ideas, experience with this and simple non expensive fixes? I've read maybe MAF sensor, fuel pump, so many things... car does not show any error codes. I'm running BTSSM on a tablet so can log stuff but don't know enough to read the logs and decipher any issues. Any help out there? Cheers in advance
  5. Guys, don't laugh... In pursuit of chasing down my error code 66 issues, I gave the BBOD hoses and solenoids a clean out with carb cleaner...after which I forgot to plug back in the big connector that provides power to all the little solenoids in the box before going for a drive...anyway, found that, sorted, cleared the codes and carried on. Well, she's got no boost on the primary. I am getting boost high up in the rev range. No error codes. I checked and quadruple checked the BBOD hoses and electrical connections and haven't spotted anything missing. Plugged the greens together to cycle the solenoids and I can see the one that hose number one plugs into doesn't appear to be working. Line one goes to the intercooler control valve (IACV), which, if I'm not mistaken, should always be under vacuum (and in the closed position) until the secondary kicks in, at which point it moves to atmospheric and opens. There is definitely vacuum (from the tank in the RH guard) sucking that solenoid, but at no point does the other side of the solenoid go into vacuum. If I remove hose one from the solenoid and give it a suck, the IACV closes, so no blockages along that path. I've yet to check to see if power is getting to that solenoid. Is that a removable plug on top of it, or is it permanently hard wired? Doesn't look like it wants to unplug. Do these solenoids die sometimes, or are they rock solid? In the interim, would it be safe to bypass that solenoid to get vacuum to the IACV, provided I keep it under 4000RPM sort of thing? I've got to do a big drive in the weekend and would rather have the pre VOD range available, if I can't get it properly fixed in time... Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions...apart from the "go single turbo" ones of course ;-)