Suitable Oils

[Timmah]

I think this link could come in handy for anyone with a different model Subby than the OP:

http://ew5.earlweb.com/search.php?site=1&sector=1&category=6&subset=271

[Swindog]

Hey thats a goodone

[newsuba]

Are you guys forgetting BMW uses condition based servicing ?

No fixed intervals.

The very clever on-board diagnostics knows best.

;D

17,000 road km's on Castrol 10W60 should be fine.

[Guest]

 newsuba said:

Are you guys forgetting BMW uses condition based servicing ?

No fixed intervals.

The very clever on-board diagnostics knows best.

;D

17,000 road km's on Castrol 10W60 should be fine.

+1

[GC8E2DD]

The harder you use an oil, the quicker it will wear out. Both from shear and additive degradation amongst other things. For these reasons, you surely cannot decide to change your oil based solely on distance travelled or time period. This is compounded by the fact that the bigger the difference between the cold and hot viscosity ratings, the more additives in the oil, presumably the larger an effect additive degradation will have on the oil's composition. To take an extreme example (for argument's sake), a Formula One team is not going to reuse the same oil in their engines over multiple races just because it hasn't been in there very long or hasn't travelled much distance. Maybe you drive like the proverbial Nana on the road, in which case you could probably leave it even longer than 17,000kms if you want, but if you thrash the car, 17,000kms on the same oil sounds crazy (imo).

[newsuba]

That is accounted for with CBS.

Service intervals are not based on time or distance but on how the condition of the car's key systems.

http://www.bmw.co.uk/bmwuk/bmwcorporate/sales/commercial/service/servicing_explained/0,,1212___,00.html

[Guest]

 GC8E2DD said:

The harder you use an oil, the quicker it will wear out. Both from shear and additive degradation amongst other things. For these reasons, you surely cannot decide to change your oil based solely on distance travelled or time period. This is compounded by the fact that the bigger the difference between the cold and hot viscosity ratings, the more additives in the oil, presumably the larger an effect additive degradation will have on the oil's composition. To take an extreme example (for argument's sake), a Formula One team is not going to reuse the same oil in their engines over multiple races just because it hasn't been in there very long or hasn't travelled much distance. Maybe you drive like the proverbial Nana on the road, in which case you could probably leave it even longer than 17,000kms if you want, but if you thrash the car, 17,000kms on the same oil sounds crazy (imo).

Any why would you re use oil in a formula one car anyway, just like track bikes/cars. just change it after every event anyway, piece of mind.

Theres a difference to sitting on the red line on the track compared to overtaking on the highway every now and then when your only at red line for less than 5%?

you can't thrash a M5 on the road, because you won't have a licence left.

BMW knows best, they employ the best engineers/technicians and as a result are in a position to recommend the intervals etc

Don't underestimate how good modern oils are nowadays. go on youtube and search amsoil oil, lasted 300 000 miles or the like

I encourage you to run some top of the line synthetic oil for 10 000, and take it to an oil analyst and they will probably tell you its good for another 5000 or so

[GC8E2DD]

Never mind. Run whatever oil you like for whatever period you like =]

[Guest]

 GC8E2DD said:

Never mind. Run whatever oil you like for whatever period you like =]

The oil is definitely capable of lasting, but for piece of mind and and oil change is only $60 or so, I'll change it anyway

[Guest boostcut]

sometimes gull petrol stations sell a 4l of oil for 9 dollars. i grab some when im there, runs sweet in the lawnmower. i never change it tho, it drains out of the crank seal at the bottom and lubes the blade.

[sultan]

or just buy a 4age toyota. i did about 70,000 k's before doing an oil change, on the same oil that was in it when i bought the car. i never actually changed it mind you, just poured in 4L when it had burnt it all off, would love to see the oil filter if the new owner does change it.

[Guest DMSREX]

Now using Mobil Delvac MX 15W40 mineral oil as recommended by this guy who should know. Builds lots of EJ engines for road/race use. He uses it religiously...

http://www.msengineering.com.au/EngineBuildingServices.htm

[familyman]

Man I worked for mobil for 5 years and back in my day the Delvac range was diesel oil!

May have changed though. Their mobil Super S oil has changed name 6 times in 10 years. Think was 15W-40?

[Koom]

Still is a diesel oil. It has good high heat shear capabilities or something like that.

[Guest DMSREX]

Yup Diesel oil thats also approved for use in petrol engines. He reckons he's pulled engines down after using it and the internals are spotless. Also has one of the best stay in grade capabilities on any oil on the market after repeated heat cycles, HTHS is good (doesn't shear). He's not aligned to any oil company either which means he dosen't have to push any particular companies products either. He'll just say what works and what doesn't regardless of brand.

[Guest]

I'm gunna do an oil change for my V4 JDM WRX shortly - thoughts on which make / grade of oil I should use?

Chassis has done 121,000km's, rebuild has done 12,000km's..

[funkytown]

has it got a forged block or standard?

do you rape it at motorsport events or daily driven?

edge 5w/30, or 10w/60 for a forged motorsport car, something closer to 10w.40 for normal use.

[Guest]

Amsoil 10 30

[Guest]

 funkytown said:

has it got a forged block or standard?

do you rape it at motorsport events or daily driven?

edge 5w/30, or 10w/60 for a forged motorsport car, something closer to 10w.40 for normal use.

Non forged block, unfortunately..

Don't attend motorsport events, don't consider much 'rapage' of it (if anything, will give it a bit of stick on the open road once fully warmed, while road tripping..) as it's my daily..

[funkytown]

10w40 wud be fine then, just maintain a good frequency of oil changes

[Koom]

 funkytown said:

has it got a forged block or standard?

do you rape it at motorsport events or daily driven?

edge 5w/30, or 10w/60 for a forged motorsport car, something closer to 10w.40 for normal use.

Thats a rather large range of viscosities listed there

Just a note; I wouldn't go to something as thick as 10w/60 unless the engine has been rebuilt with enlarged clearances on the bearings otherwise you'll just be putting extra heat into the oil trying to push the thick stuff through small holes (pressure goes up, flowrate goes down).

[BC5RA]

 Koom']

[quote name='funkytown said:

has it got a forged block or standard?

do you rape it at motorsport events or daily driven?

edge 5w/30, or 10w/60 for a forged motorsport car, something closer to 10w.40 for normal use.

/quote]

Thats a rather large range of viscosities listed there

Just a note; I wouldn't go to something as thick as 10w/60 unless the engine has been rebuilt with enlarged clearances on the bearings otherwise you'll just be putting extra heat into the oil trying to push the thick stuff through small holes (pressure goes up, flowrate goes down).

Why recommend a low viscosity and then the other extreme?

I run 5w40 in my "Forged block"

[clintondane]

we've got an auto, 2001 blitzen sedan and we've always used castrol edge 5w-30 and the car goes great. we took it to a shop a while ago for a mechanical issue and the oil was changed without our permission and a semi synthetic was put in, car ran real shit so we're taking it to oil changers next week for fully synthetic oil change.

[sl8r]

Not trying to highjack or anything but I am just about to get my new engine dyno tuned and just want to know what the most appropriate oil would be to run. It is a possum built forged engine built mainly for the track. Brands and weight?

Thanks

[Guest]

Need to add this I have worked at Oil Changers for about a year of my life and subarus come in alot and one thing no one has mentioned about the DIFF OILS and GEARBOX OILS is the oil must be GL5 Specific if your just going to go by the 75W90 people will fill their diffs with any old oil and wont understand why it broke.

After all if we are being technical Automatic Transmission Fluid carries a weight of 75W90 and is used as a gear oil in Fords and Mazdas and a Transfer case oil in Camrys and Starlets

GL5 is written on the bottle usually on the back at the bottom of the bottle.

Use of NON GL5 oils results in a cutting fluid rather than a lubricant and you will find in a matter of K's your gears will have teeth so sharp you can cut your steak with and are only one hard launch away from shattering.

USE ONLY GL5 75W90 Gear Oil (Most of them are synthetic and expensive compared to GL4 oils)