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Dumb Question Thread!


Jambun

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Anything to do with Cat is just put there to be taken out. it's all emissions/smog crap to comply with California's harsh smog laws and stuff for vehicles. As if it meets cakifornia regulations; rest of america regulations: boom entire american market open to you. Being that cars produce hydrocarbons, carbon monoxide and nitrogen oxides: they are kinda there in an attempt to convert them into less harmful things; but over time; the platinum in the catalytic converter gets all broken down, it no longer reacts with the exhaust gases not only does it no longer stop the vehicle being good for the environment: it is now being blocked up by smog: so once the platinum breaks down the cat gunks up and nastily restricts exhaust flow.

Removing is A-OK by nz regulations, especially on a BG

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Better muffler will work

A resonator is basically a cannon muffler which goes inline, so one or the other will do the trick one way or the other

Mate had an evo with a 3" exhaust made literally of resonators and a bend or two, it sounded like stock but was a drainpipe you could drop a tennis ball down

You can get quiet and flow at the same time you just have to spend on the right things. Some cannon mufflers literally do nothing - the apexi one on my last legacy I swear made it louder than having the exhaust unbolted at the diff

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 sweedazz101 said:
What exactly does an immobiliser immobilise? Battery? ignition?

And on that note, where does one get a alarm box key? (master key or whatever they're called) my car never came with one

depends on the kind of immobiliser; some go to fuel pump, ignition/spark, injectors could go to anything that'll stop engine from working. could even have it hooked on to cam or crank sensors. though i think fuel pump is a more commmon one.

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Hi guys

Swapped engine to another shell and now have a fluid leak at the front, drivers side where the first hose clamps onto the metal tube that goes to the rear of the engine bay.

My dumb thing was I accidentally loosened it then ran engine which poured ps fluid out this joint. Now I've done joint up tight but fluid still weeps out. It drips down onto the exhaust and spews out white smoke.

Any ideas how to fix?

Al

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what would be possible causes for a car to take awhile to start i know most subarus ive had startup almost after the 1st wind over currently the car wil wind 4 to 5 times before starting ? ive replaced battery so i know thats not the issue

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 tydon said:
what would be possible causes for a car to take awhile to start i know most subarus ive had startup almost after the 1st wind over currently the car wil wind 4 to 5 times before starting ? ive replaced battery so i know thats not the issue

Fuel filter, weak pump. Weak spark/ignition. Coolant sensor, does it run smooth after it starts? Does it only do it when cold or warm as well?

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 tydon said:
Does it all the time it's more like 3-4 winds before starting runs fine after til O2 starts playing up code for 02 comes and goes along with rough idle when warmed up fluctuates almost stalls

Timing is all lined up perfect; right? Nothing decide to skip a tooth when setting the tensioner?

just thinking; hard starting + running like a dog; might be because of bad compression?

BTW; it is possible to change a cambelt with the radiator in place. Just take the fans off.

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 al said:
Hi guys

Swapped engine to another shell and now have a fluid leak at the front, drivers side where the first hose clamps onto the metal tube that goes to the rear of the engine bay.

My dumb thing was I accidentally loosened it then ran engine which poured ps fluid out this joint. Now I've done joint up tight but fluid still weeps out. It drips down onto the exhaust and spews out white smoke.

Any ideas how to fix?

Al

Can you load a pic of where it's leaking? Guessing pressure line crimp not return line. Have you tried a normal hose clamp over it?

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powersteering_zps2bb95bb5.jpg

This is when I caused the leak - didnt put hose over the lip. Have pushed hose over lip, but now still have some weeping.

No I havent put on a normal hose clamp. I'll do that.

 Rosssub said:
Can you load a pic of where it's leaking? Guessing pressure line crimp not return line. Have you tried a normal hose clamp over it?
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 94 Leone said:
Timing is all lined up perfect; right? Nothing decide to skip a tooth when setting the tensioner?

just thinking; hard starting + running like a dog; might be because of bad compression?

BTW; it is possible to change a cambelt with the radiator in place. Just take the fans off.

It cranked over perfectly in another car before removal so I don't think it's motor gunna change plugs rest leads and coilpack . Double priming fuel pump doesn't make a difference either

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 PtPixel said:
Are you a vendor / private sales? I've been thinking about a RSB for awhile.

Just pass them on a ****load cheaper than everyone else but if you want an invoice you will have to buy off a retailer. Dealt with the whiteline guys for 8 years now and done a lot for lads on here. Only really do the bars/alk the bushes its not worth mucking around with by the time you add freight you may as well buy local.

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