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Dumb Question Thread!


Jambun

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Got two more dumb question

1. does anyone know the differnce in lengths of sedan and wagon exhausts and if legacy exhaust can be used on wrx?

2. Seeing as you can put 250t headers on a turbo wrx etc can u do the oppisite wrx headers on a 250t... or non turbo impreza?

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How anal are you people with correctly torquing bolts and other bits? Sure engine stuff is more of a given but what about other bits round the car? Is it completely necessary to follow the manufacturers recommendations or just give things a light/heavy crank based on whats the recommended torque is?

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Not at all anal.

I just do thinks up as tight as I can usually. If it is to do with engine/bolt ons, I'm more careful.

If it's to do with pulling the engine apart, I take it to someone who knows what they're doing.

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 BINKZ said:
How difficult is it to unbolt and lift the manifold in order to more easily install silicone turbo inlet?

i.e. without the need to unplug and drain everything etc.

The manifold will unbolt and lift pretty easy, but the new intake pipe still might not go in. The fuel pipes that bolt to the under side of the intake manifold will probably still be in the way, depending on which pipe you've brought. To get my version 6 M&H silicone intake pipe fitted I had to remove the fuel rails/pipes completely, then refit once the pipe was in place. Mainly because of the inlets and outlets in the silicone pipe sticking up hitting the fuel lines. Not so much of an issue with aftermarket fuel lines, hoses etc.

Edit: A few pics:

Loom_on_manifold_on_002.jpg

GDA_heads_001.jpg

Edited by Rosssub
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 Andy_Mac said:
How anal are you people with correctly torquing bolts and other bits? Sure engine stuff is more of a given but what about other bits round the car? Is it completely necessary to follow the manufacturers recommendations ...

IMO you'd be crazy not to follow recommendations for suspension and driveline components.

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My dumb question(s):

1) Anybody know who makes BNT's C Plus pads?

2) Anybody know how good they are relative to Subaru genuine?

Received a complete set (DB1491 + 1803) but I was planning to buy Akebono's Pro-ACTs anyway, so I dunno whether I should fit these or sell them to somebody else.

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 Andy_Mac said:
In that case what is the most usefull size torque wrench to get? Thinking 3/8?

Look at the torque range you need, that will tell you far more than the drive size.

Also try and get one from a reputable brand, like Facom, Norbar or Snap-on if you've won lotto this week.

But cereally a good torque wrench will last you for ever if you take care of it.

Having said that, not everyone can spring $600+ for one tool, so a Powerbuilt or a Teng one should do the trick.

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 Percy said:
Look at the torque range you need, that will tell you far more than the drive size.

Also try and get one from a reputable brand, like Facom, Norbar or Snap-on if you've won lotto this week.

But cereally a good torque wrench will last you for ever if you take care of it.

Having said that, not everyone can spring $600+ for one tool, so a Powerbuilt or a Teng one should do the trick.

I would not place Teng as low as powerbuilt :) they do make very very good tools,

I would not go to small,make the range you want in the middle of the tool, not at the top end as you may find it can be very hard turn it if you dont have the leverage.

I have got 3 :) a 3/8th a 1/2 and a 3/4, to cover the ranges I need.

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I am trying to find Subaru silicone radiator kose kit for a legacy bh5 rev c but I've been unable able to any

I have found lots for impreza will any of theses fit or should I got for the ones from repco I have a preferred color of blue

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 patrickc22 said:
I am trying to find Subaru silicone radiator kose kit for a legacy bh5 rev c but I've been unable able to any

I have found lots for impreza will any of theses fit or should I got for the ones from repco I have a preferred color of blue

Flea Bay or Ali Express are the cheapest places I've found any, who knows what teh quality is like though.

Either that or they are on Yahoo Auctions Japan.

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Sweet. Loosen the lower castle nut first, but leave it in place. Then pry or knock the lower A-arm downwards to free the lower end of ball joint.

Then remove the upper locking bolt (pictured above), and pry or knock the A-arm downwards again to free the balljoint from the upper hub.

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 Rosssub said:
Sweet. Loosen the lower castle nut first, but leave it in place. Then pry or knock the lower A-arm downwards to free the lower end of ball joint.

Then remove the upper locking bolt (pictured above), and pry or knock the A-arm downwards again to free the balljoint from the upper hub.

Legend!

Thought I need to remove the locking bolt first though. Assembly procedure - it should just slide in to the knuckle fairly easily?

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There's a tapered cone inside the A-arm end that can be a pig to get out. Leaving the upper locking bolt in place makes getting the ball joint out of the A-arm easier.

Once the ball joint is loose in the A-arm, then remove the upper locking bolt and pull the ball joint from the hub housing.

Edit: Also note in the pics, one sides sway bar link has been removed so the A-arms can move separately.

Edited by Rosssub
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 Rosssub said:
There's a tapered cone inside the A-arm end that can be a pig to get out. Leaving the upper locking bolt in place makes getting the ball joint out of the A-arm easier.

Once the ball joint is loose in the A-arm, then remove the upper locking bolt and pull the ball joint from the hub housing.

Edit: Also note in the pics, one sides sway bar link has been removed so the A-arms can move separately.

Thank you!

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