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Anyone know how to replace cambelt? or cheap place to go


tydon

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Anyone know how to replace cambelt? or cheap place to go to get it done was going to attempt myself but would prefer to use the 'special' tool to do it with and i dont want to get the timing wrong LOL

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 mattapo said:

special tool?

to get the cam gears off without taking the rocker covers off to stop it turning??? i dunno lol.

also i can make payment with another longblock motor (not sure on condition) minus a few parts if it someone is willing to do a cambelt change and replace back black plastic cam covers as theyre melted and sensors wont fit crank/cam ones.

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 slystiguy']

[quote name='tydon said:

just got another quote for $100 thank god its alot cheaper.

im now sorted cheers!! :D

/quote]

:/

yah after disscussions with another guy with 7 years experiece gave me another quote labour only $200 and i supply parts.

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where did you get those quotes? I'm going to need a new cambelt really soon i'm at 101,000km and would rather just pay someone for the labour..

also where did you buy your timing belt from?

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 eKulz said:

where did you get those quotes? I'm going to need a new cambelt really soon i'm at 101,000km and would rather just pay someone for the labour..

also where did you buy your timing belt from?

There are many good reasons for using only genuine parts. Especially with the cambelt as any failure in that region of the car will at the very least stop you moving and at the very worst destroy your engine.

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Any authorised Subaru dealer. You need more than just the timing belt. They should be able to sell you a cambelt service kit. This will include tensioner, idlers and seals. You should also change the water pump.

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 eKulz said:

where did you get those quotes? I'm going to need a new cambelt really soon i'm at 101,000km and would rather just pay someone for the labour..

also where did you buy your timing belt from?

i asked around a few people i knew and got put onto a guy. who has recently done mine havnt cranked it over yet to see if its all good but when he dropped it off looked the real deal checked it over to see if marks line up etc.

will get back to you tomorrow to verify if this guys work is geniune or not.

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ok so this guy is the real deal did my belt and car runs farkkkn sweet!

if you want yours done for labour gimme a txt on 0278420648

and i put u onto the guy who did mine.

he picked up and dropped off real good guy

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  • 1 month later...

Do it yourself if you've got some tools, either get a haynes repair manual (from Repco) youtube links helpful as well.

(dohc)

(sohc)

Use factory genuine parts its not worth the risk taking shortcuts, or penny pinching at the risk blowing a motor particularly if its an interferance one ie dohc/turbo and later engines eg

[ had an 86 leone did 200k belt idlers tensioner etc but sprocket idler reused with new bearing pressed by subaru dealer and that failed 1 year later ie seized destroying 1 of the 2 timing belts ,luckily old ea ohc enine non interferance so no serious damage just inconvenience so moral of story use new parts]

its a good idea to mark everything with white marker like twink marker, ie line up and mark all the timing marks on cam pulleys, crank sprocket with marks on timing covers and mark old belt and have everything in the correct postion BEFORE disassembly. need to replace :

1 belt obviously

2 all idlers (plain and sprocketed { toothed}) and tensioner/idler- not really a good idea to reuse the old one.

3 oil seals on crankshaft and cam shafts

4 water pump at 200k or 8 years not necesarry at 100k but if car 10year + probably a good idea to replace.

5 Some suggest replacing the oil pump not sure about this but l'm of the opinion that it should be ok if there has been regular servicing.

the biggest killer of subaru engines (cracked heads, blown head gaskets, cooked motors, clogged radiators) is lack of servicing ie regular oil/filter changes and

replacement of coolant / flushing of cooling system (every 2 years)

because subaru engine is in a flat boxer configuration the oil and water (coolant) stays in contact with gaskets and oil / water in bad condition can eat away at gaskets, clogg radiators etc. eg l had an 86 leone with a radiator 85% clogged after unexplained overheating driving uphill, had a flow test done, had to be taken apart and physically "rodded out". so managed to save it. no thanks to the previous owners.

sorry have gone on a bit but hope this is useful, on sub no. 5 and for 20 years :}

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 Stodart said:

Do it yourself if you've got some tools, either get a haynes repair manual (from Repco) youtube links helpful as well.

(dohc)

(sohc)

Use factory genuine parts its not worth the risk taking shortcuts, or penny pinching at the risk blowing a motor particularly if its an interferance one ie dohc/turbo and later engines eg

[ had an 86 leone did 200k belt idlers tensioner etc but sprocket idler reused with new bearing pressed by subaru dealer and that failed 1 year later ie seized destroying 1 of the 2 timing belts ,luckily old ea ohc enine non interferance so no serious damage just inconvenience so moral of story use new parts]

its a good idea to mark everything with white marker like twink marker, ie line up and mark all the timing marks on cam pulleys, crank sprocket with marks on timing covers and mark old belt and have everything in the correct postion BEFORE disassembly. need to replace :

1 belt obviously

2 all idlers (plain and sprocketed { toothed}) and tensioner/idler- not really a good idea to reuse the old one.

3 oil seals on crankshaft and cam shafts

4 water pump at 200k or 8 years not necesarry at 100k but if car 10year + probably a good idea to replace.

5 Some suggest replacing the oil pump not sure about this but l'm of the opinion that it should be ok if there has been regular servicing.

the biggest killer of subaru engines (cracked heads, blown head gaskets, cooked motors, clogged radiators) is lack of servicing ie regular oil/filter changes and

replacement of coolant / flushing of cooling system (every 2 years)

because subaru engine is in a flat boxer configuration the oil and water (coolant) stays in contact with gaskets and oil / water in bad condition can eat away at gaskets, clogg radiators etc. eg l had an 86 leone with a radiator 85% clogged after unexplained overheating driving uphill, had a flow test done, had to be taken apart and physically "rodded out". so managed to save it. no thanks to the previous owners.

sorry have gone on a bit but hope this is useful, on sub no. 5 and for 20 years :}

I still haven't done mine yet even though this thread is pretty old. I'm planning on getting it done around november, it should be okay until then. Thanks heaps for the video link i don't know how i didn't come across that one while researching.

there's a few timing belt kits on trademe, how much should i actually be paying? they go for around $600

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  • 2 weeks later...

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