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Help with CEL code 44


MadorEJ20TT

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 MadorEJ20TT said:

Hmmm The wastegates vacuum line comes off the Compressor housing, is it on the wrong line?

I swapped the vacuum lines around with this funny nipple thing that comes off the primary\'s air intake to the turbo compressor, and the wastegates line to the steel vacuum line coming over the intake, and the other steel line coming over the intake is going to BOV and teed off to boost gauge, its free boosting now gets up to about 7psi 1st stage and hits a boost cut at 9psi 2nd stage

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The primary wastegate vac line is fed directly from the primary compressor housing. Somewhere on that vac line will be a t-junction that runs off to the boost-control solenoid (the thing that\'s gone wrong) in the passenger side guard. The return line from this solenoid goes in to the primary air intake before it reaches the primary compressor.

The way it works is that your primary turbo produces pressure, which is fed directly to the wastegate and activates it when wastegate pressure is reached. The boost-control solenoid "vents" some pressure away and so delays how soon the wastegate is activated. In this situation the solenoid is venting pressurised air through itself and back in to the intake system (which will always be in vacuum) so all metered air remains in the system.

So anyway, either the solenoid in the guard is poked or its lost connection to the ECU. As mentioned, check for loose connections and failing that replace the solenoid.

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Wait, what year car is it (the hose layout varies slightly with models)

Do exactly as that charming man above you has written

Run hose from turbo nipple (still an awesome band name) to the wastegate actuator just above it

That hose *should* also have a T piece which sends a hose off to behind the battery in the front guard. That\'s how the factory boost control works, it bleeds off from that hose. IF you don\'t have that, that\'s ok for now, it means you should just run wastegate pressure alone (about 7psi or so)

Regardless of whether that is there or not, the solenoid itself is in there and will only throw a fault code if it is removed or faulty. If you simply unplug the lines to it, it has no idea

You also should not have boost cut that low, there is another problem at play here - factory boost alone is normally around 10psi pri 14 secondary (ish)

wait, just read what you did - I\'m lost what you\'re up to - take a photo of what you have, me or someone else will be able to go "this hose goes to that place" etc

I can\'t take a pic for you cause mine is uh, messed with

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Awesome, yeah thanks for posting that pic I found that one on here :)

Ummmmmmm I found where the Vac lines come out behind the battery and someones hooked that up to the window washer bottle :S!!!!

Will take some pics today, but dont expect anything great its not the tidiest!

Oh yeah and the car is 1994 GT Legacy EJ20H Manual with the Bilstein bits on it

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That\'s what I said earlier - it\'s not right that it\'s cutting at that boost - stock IS around 14psi on secondary

You can get them (chips) for *some* models - that sanchez fulla can fill you in - for the majority you\'re restricted to finding japanese ECU\'s - what year exactly is your car?

But need to get it running properly before you worry about getting it running fast. Plenty of folks seeing 16-18psi ish on them, the "boost cut" as such isn\'t till ridiculous PSI (it\'s airflow based, not PSI based anyway, so an air leak or AFM fault can cause it)

Given the missing boost solenoid (sure it\'s gone completely? - it lives basically opposite the battery inside the guard and would be a pain to get to to physically unbolt it) and tinkered-with hosing I would assume there\'s some weird sh!t going on to be honest

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Wastegate pressure is ~7psi but with a working factory boost solenoid AND restrictor-pill it\'s around 14psi.

I have chips if you\'re interested. It needs to be a first-gen TT though ~93-95, EJ20H engine, R6/7C ECU (there\'s another too but I forget the code - T9 maybe?). Wait until you\'ve sorted your current problem out first tho.

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Yeah I got the EJ20H its a 1994 Legacy, So sweet the chip should be all good,

Im having problems with this boost controller though, no matter where I adjust it, Fully Closed or Fully Open its still boosting 5psi?

I think the boost controller is okay, If I blow down one port and turn the dial it starts to limit the air coming out the other end

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Its running 5psi and I thought it was quick when i bought it without a gauge :P

Have a gauge installed now though, Yeah sometimes I can hear the BOV hissing and no boost climbing, Drives fine off boost

Edit: So frustrating... Going to unplug the BOV and see if I can up the boost, I am right in hooking the MBC up to the primary wastegate right? it doesnt need a line also going to the secondary gate?

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Mine will make 10psi with the BOV removed completely (don\'t ask)

If the boost controller has no effect, it means that the thing is quite likely freeboosting - just undo the hose and see what happens if you want. That will rule the controller out

Just block the BOV hose and see what happens from there (a D or C cell battery fits nicely)

Stop buying random parts and just try to fix the problem

Don\'t mean to sound grumpy but you\'re just hiffing darts at the wall with your eyes closed at the moment, stop and think "what exactly is the issue" - make it run properly to start with, then worry about making it faster

- It drives fine off boost

- It idles fine

- It makes *some* boost and isn\'t smoking like a train

- with no wastegate feed (closed boost controller) it still is running less than normal wastegate pressure

- the secondary turbo actuator isn\'t stuck open, the turbo stays cold

So problem could be (just what comes to mind)

Wastegate stuck open

Faulty turbo (prob not but who knows)

And intake leak of some description which only occurs on boost, not off (so likely not manifold) - possibly split hose

BOV stuck open, common fault, easy to diagnose - I had this exact issue 100% identical years back on a VR4, problem was weak/leaking BOV opening around 5psi, even freeboosted the car still just did 5psi, replaced and weyhey 20psi

Intercooler valve stuck open - this is spring loaded to be OPEN, so if the hose is off or vacuum tank split / something wrong there, it will default to be open, and the secondary turbo becomes a massive air leak back to the inlet

No you don\'t need to do anything with the secondary wastegate

Edit - considering the "boost cut" it was getting originally as well, I\'m really thinking air leak of some sort

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Yeah definitely going to stop spending money on it now as I thought it would have been fixed by now, The old owner gave me a list of parts it apparently needed to get it going well, but thats been a f*** around lol

If I unplug the wastegate and let it free boost it makes a whole lot of groans and noises then free boosts to 9 - 10psi and hits a fuel/boost/spark cut of some sort,

With everything hooked up and its running its 5psi, You can hear the wastegate open on the secondary turbo, kinda get a real loud exhaust tone at about 4500rpm so im sure its not the wastegate,

Going to check now for the intercooler flap thing,

Sometimes after a quick boost, it wont build boost again regardless of RPM or gear, have to give it some time then it will boost again, drives fine when it cant build boost just slow as a whale,

On another note, in diagnostic mode with all the solenoids clicking and relays ticking and stuff, none of them move, I read you should see the wastegates working and that huge brass thing should be moving in and out, none of that happens

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