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Koom castor mod DIY


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These are used to increase castor similar to an ALK or using forester bushes on a GC/GF chassis. Car feels flatter in the front end when cornering imo.

These shims are 40x40x10mm with a 14mm hole in the center and mine were knocked up for $20 by a local engineer. See footnote about 10mm+ shims. You need 4 total, 2 for each side.

DSC04184_zps9f3d3c5b.jpg

All you need is:

Jack

Axle stands

1/2" Breaker bar or ratchet

19mm socket

1/2" extension

DSC04185_zps0ece8a92.jpg

1) Jack the car up safely or however you like but dont blame me if it falls on your head and hurts.

2)These are the 2 bolts you are packing out.

DSC04187_zpsc5247d5c.jpg

3)Completely remove the outer bolt (closest to wheel) and loosen the inside one

(closest to gearbox) off so you have approx 15mm movement in the bush.

4)Slide the shim under the outer bolt hole and start to wind the bolt in so it all lines up. Tighten it up but leave about 5mm play so you have roughly 15mm on the inside bolt still.

DSC04188_zps6705a6d9.jpg

5)Now remove the inside bolt completely.

DSC04189_zps6dfd4fad.jpg

6)Slide the shim under the inside bolt hole and start to wind the bolt in so it all lines up.

DSC04191_zps400b9953.jpg

7)Now tighten up both bolts while making sure the shims stay roughly aligned.

8)Do the same the other side.

9)Note tighten wheel nuts to roughly 110nm.

I didnt have a lot of clearance between the caster bush and the gearbox crossmember mount shown in the pic below. You could make the shim so it would clear but mine worked fine at 10mm. Mine were a bit off centre as they were drilled to 13mm then out to 14mm from there so they were off centre. The mounting bolts are approx 50-60mm long so have more than enough thread to hold up to a 20mm shim I would think.

DSC04191_zps400b9953.jpg

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I got an alignment the next day but it was way out already so hard to compare. Feels flatter in the front but I havent pushed it to really feel the difference tbh.

I just painted the shims so they didnt rust underneath it is already painted anyway bro. No idea if GDB are the same check with slydog hes running v7 sti front arms I think.

There is a bit of movement in the bushes from stock as theyre a bit slotted so Id definitely recommend getting a wheel alignment when theyre in.

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The anti lift part actually does the opposite - it sort of "pushes" the wheel to the ground more by forcing the suspension to work rather than shifting force to the chassis, so the "car" lifts more but the wheel itself keeps contact better

So it sort of is confusing in name - its anti-wheel-lift but pro-seatofthepantsmeter-lift if that makes sense

There\'s a buttload of info around about it, short version is less wheelspin from the front end when pushed, but doesn\'t actually keep the nose down as you\'d expect

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  • 2 weeks later...

the v7\'s have an extra step, there is a giant u shaped hunk of theel that needs to be removed first. a total of 12 bolts to remove it. 2 at the front (12mm head) , 2 at the very back (14mm head) as sort of location bolts, keeping everything lined up and in place to get the main bolts in.

2 more 14mm head bolts at the very back, then 3 19mm head bolts at various points along the length of the side arm.

pics of the u frame

20130608_171003_zps9af7a275.jpg

20130608_171110_zpsf7862d27.jpg

20130608_171155_zps5ba06b0e.jpg

more pics in my photobucket album, feel free to have a look

http://s960.photobucket.com/user/kiwi_fozze/library/

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  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Its not just extra castor that this achieves and that is really secondary to the intent of changing the angle of the bottom arms to modify the lift/dive characteristics of the front of the car. In saying that, I don\'t remember noticing a difference in the self centering.

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  • 4 weeks later...

This mod doesnt change castor, it only changes the antidive. 10mm is max you really want to add on gc8 and gbd chassis less on grb.

By packing this down you actually get the nose to drop more on weight transfer,ie braking. Generally only do this for a gravel car where you want it to pitch and weight transfer more. Generally for tarmac you try to raise this point, hence the aftermarket ones. On alot of models you actually flip this mount over and it will move the pivot point outwards. This has the effect of increasing the camber and the castor.

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  • 1 year later...
  • Admin
On 5/24/2013 at 11:00 PM, evowrx said:

These are used to increase castor similar to an ALK or using forester bushes on a GC/GF chassis. Car feels flatter in the front end when cornering imo.

These shims are 40x40x10mm with a 14mm hole in the center and mine were knocked up for $20 by a local engineer. See footnote about 10mm+ shims. You need 4 total, 2 for each side.

 

All you need is:

Jack

Axle stands

1/2" Breaker bar or ratchet

19mm socket

1/2" extension

 

1) Jack the car up safely or however you like but dont blame me if it falls on your head and hurts.

2)These are the 2 bolts you are packing out.

 

3)Completely remove the outer bolt (closest to wheel) and loosen the inside one

(closest to gearbox) off so you have approx 15mm movement in the bush.

4)Slide the shim under the outer bolt hole and start to wind the bolt in so it all lines up. Tighten it up but leave about 5mm play so you have roughly 15mm on the inside bolt still.

 

5)Now remove the inside bolt completely.

 

6)Slide the shim under the inside bolt hole and start to wind the bolt in so it all lines up.

 

7)Now tighten up both bolts while making sure the shims stay roughly aligned.

8)Do the same the other side.

9)Note tighten wheel nuts to roughly 110nm.

I didnt have a lot of clearance between the caster bush and the gearbox crossmember mount shown in the pic below. You could make the shim so it would clear but mine worked fine at 10mm. Mine were a bit off centre as they were drilled to 13mm then out to 14mm from there so they were off centre. The mounting bolts are approx 50-60mm long so have more than enough thread to hold up to a 20mm shim I would think.

 

 

 

Seeing that those photos are toast, and I wanted to do it myself, here are some photos...

di3jZFY.jpg

tym2WUV.jpg

mupxwZk.jpg

 

 

 

Also tried to flip this part, but those suckers were on ttiiiiggght. and they sit at an angle where i can only get a spanner on, not a proper socket with some tube....

 

I'd recommend taking them off the car, and putting in a vice and then removing.

 

r5CPSFc.jpg

 

 

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